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  1. Shrimpy Daddy

    Shrimpy Daddy

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  2. Grubs

    Grubs

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    northboy

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  4. Howard18

    Howard18

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/25/15 in all areas

  1. Shrimpy Daddy
    Coincidentally, someone from another forum seeking help on the same problem, and I recalled I have this article: http://www.shrimpydaddy.com/pages/how-to-analyse-low-shrimplet-survival-rate
  2. Shrimpy Daddy
    That will not happen. They are very good swimmer, unless you have Sulawesi shrimp.
  3. Howard18
    So I went to the LFS today to have a look at the Tangerine x Taibees, gave in and bought a few to see if they can live in the tank together with the Blue Velvets. The co2 diffuser is not working too well, I suspect due to the airpump's low output pressure and the fine ceramic diffuser. The bubbles created by the air stone used to replace the co2 diffuser were too big, splashing water everywhere, wetting the lights, lids and back compartment so I've temporarily stopped using it. I've shortened the output pipe of the canister filter in hopes of increasing water surface movement and in preparation for my NAG glass oxydator. I fed my shrimps a slice of zucchini today and they seem to love it. The berried shrimps are coming along well, some very close to term with visible eyes in the eggs. Some photos as promised. Some photos of my berried shrimps: Here's a tiny male perched on top of a ceramic cube: The awesome looking Tangerine x Taibees: Please excuse the algae, I'm getting the tank ready to ensure maximum survival rates of the forthcoming shrimplets. Some photos of my shrimps feeding on the slice of zucchini: Best regards, Howard
  4. NoGi
    I've updated the first post with the revised chart.
  5. Grubs
    I assume your water is coming from the aquifer which may explain the high carbonates. GH 0 is the bigger issue IMO. If that reading is correct then you need to boost your hardness which will add calcium and magnesium to the water. Calcium in particular is required for moulting. RCS (Cherry's) are pretty forgiving and you shouldn't need to go down the road of RODI for them KH=7 isn't extreme. I would first check your hardness test to see if it really is GH=0 (take some water to the LFS if you have access to one and take your kit with you and compare). Assuming it is GH=0 then some GH booster is in order (Salty Shrimp or just Seachem Equilibrium). Get the cherry's under your belt first... then consider RODI and shrimp minerals if you decide to keep more exotic shrimp. Walk... then run... That said - if the stock from the LFS wasn't in good condition your deaths could just be transplant shock of unhappy shrimp so don't be too bummed.
  6. JPN07
    You are welcome Baz. Good to see my setup and shrimps went to the right person. I have just been busy with work lately so cant look after my shrimps properly. I am sure i will be keeping shrimps again in the near future if i have enough spare time but for now need to take a break. And yes last photo is pinto juvie. Good luck Baz and i hope you do well.
  7. ineke
    I'm using them in my Red Tibee line but once I know what sex they are I'm sure I can spare one to give it a go. At the moment I keep most of my shrimp although I'm going to have to move some eventually but at the moment it's all just for my own pleasure and learning. So it doesn't really matter what I mix. It's only if and when I move them on that I will need to have an idea of what their breeding is. 3/4 of my stock are a mix of TB, TIBEE and Mischling , only my CRS and 2 tanks of CBS are pure. I just love the not knowing what you might get with the hybrids but I really should concentrate more on pure lines - that's what I keep telling myself anyway!
  8. Grubs
    All the smaller shrimp are C. wilkinsi. The DAS are big old girls (estimate 3+ years old) approx 50mm in length. These were in a planted tank and the C. wilkinsi have been breeding like rabbits shrimp. Tank was well stocked with fish including Congo tetras, rummynose, cardinals that apparently never got the taste for shrimp. In the bucket there are some otos and native penny fish from Dave@Aquagreen also.
  9. Proto
    They only connection (and I have to keep checking it) is egg colour seems to match the mothers eye colour. Black eyed mothers seem to have black eggs, white/light eyes seem to have shades of green. The red egged mother had red eyes and I have quite a number of males with red eyes but haven't noticed any other berried females with red eyes so may be a fluke. Something I'm monitoring, fairly wild speculation at this point.
  10. northboy
    The ID drawing is in and with Nogi to post up, it will hopefully get every one using the right ID and not colour to ID shrimp that are not man made= Crystal and Cherry types. Eggs, don't know why but colour of them can vary, might be something to do with food and that one is just food for thought BOOM BOOM. Keep an eye on the different eggs and see if some thing out of the box turns up, its time to get Aussie variations going. Off topic and out of the box, Ben took home some shrimp that will lend them selves to producing ODD colours, when they are settled he will post some photos. Bob
  11. northboy
    If it starts with 1 I don't understand and single figures is what you see on TV at the polar ends of the earth not here. I use to keep tanks out side in Brisbane to, put critters that took cold in them. A lot of people freak out when they see my tanks with algae all over them, I think because they are conditioned to think algae is BAD for fish or some thing like that. Bob
  12. Grubs
    The shrimp I've looked at so far all have the rostrum as long as the antennae scales when viewed from above which I think means they are NOT WA4 and are C.wilkinsi. I'm pretty sure based on searching everyone elses pictures and the description for C.serratirostris that WA4 has the rostrum quite a bit shorter than the antennae scales. ... now I just need to find those skunk striped buggers and check them..but being in a white bucket overnight they've all gone pale! *shakes fist*

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