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so my new rack is at a point where I’m going to start a journal for it. as it sits atm its 6X 30cmx60cmx45cm tanks set up as 3 on top 3 at the bottom ( :mad:I went for 6x 1foot tanks rather then 2 3 foot tanks the extra few mm of tank edging means I can’t put the 6 on the same level its legit like 3 mm and is doing my head in) All the tanks are drilled in the base and will have stand pipes, so i can have the plumbing under the rack rather than at the back and have the rack hard up against the wall. The return water will be run at the front for access and flow. Sliding lids and only enough gap to get air lines and return hose will help prevent escapees and they look great! They were built by a Brisbane tank builder as was the sump. The sump is a 120cmx45x45 , it’s going to have filter socks then a chamber of noodles and clay balls, k1 chamber, then a chamber for things I might want to add to the sump at different times like carbon, Macropore, purigen and that kind of thing. I’ll probably put a some Marine Pure in there too as permanent fixture. The return pump is going to be an aqua medic dc runner 6000. I’ll be using my current chiller until I expand the rack then I’ll be upgrading to a teco 1000. Each tank will also have a sponge filter in it. im using ADA AS amazonia for the sub 10 bags should hit the spot.

All right before you guys hijack this thread any further, I am naming this food. Shrimp Kandy Feast. Shrimp ... well that's self explanatory. It's for shrimp. Agar is associated to desserts or sweets. Candy is sweet, and yummy. Feast cause it invokes images of a huge crowd eating. Why kandy with a 'K' ? Well just for it's origins ... check out the name's acronym

How you had it in the last picture is fine. Top it off with Substrat pro on top of the marine pure. You don't need another sponge above all the biological media. The basket should have a lid that will stop large media getting into the impeller. Spraybar or normal outlet is a personal choice and what you are trying to achieve. Spraybar, depending on placement, can allow you a more even flow across the whole tank. If placed under the water level, it will create a current down to your plants to avoid dead spots. If you face the bar down for more current to the plants, then surface agitation is reduced to nothing. Normal outlet gives you more surface agitation = more oxygen exchange at the surface. Possibly also less surface scum. It moves the water in a circular pattern but only near the surface, but you can get dead spots in the tank. Ideally, you'd want a bit of both. I use the spraybar, but drill extra holes in it. I drill new holes, that when installed, the original holes will point down into the tank to create water flow to the plants. And the new holes will point up, so the surface of the water is agitated and reduces surface scum while increasing oxygen exchange. The spraybar is positioned, just under the surface of the water in the tank. Hopefully you can visualise what I'd describing here. Edit - here is my super excellent drawing skills for you to visualise the additional holes on the spraybar.

Hahaha, yeah it's all changed, junkies are any looser addicts, crack is anything crystal that looser addicts or crackheads can smoke & don't ask me how I know cause I don't want to have to lie to you guys!

Hi shrimp people! I visit the Hannover Garnelen Championnat 2015. A very nice shrimp contest! Just a few pictures as a starter, a lot more pictures will follow the next days. I drove 700km today (I know this makes no impression on Australia people) so i'm a little tired right now . So check back later! A great show setup, I guess about 100 tanks or more. A lot of great stands from the big brands. Awesome aquascapes! I will show more later! Yes I'm famous and even other countries print t-shirts of me, can't help it OK!

Hi Zorba. I've been having a hard time finding stones or rocks for my shrimp tanks as well. I've been doing a lot of reading about them on Google and have come up with a list of rocks that are classed as 'inert and won't affect your water parameters'. But I've had quite experienced shrimp keepers on Facebook tell me that no stone or rock is safe for shrimp even if they are inert. So it can get pretty frustrating. It's true that if you drip vinegar on the stones and it fizzes then they aren't safe to use. But the vinegar test doesn't always work. I use the Hydrochloric Acid that we add to our pool to test them now as it will fizz on rocks that vinegar won't. Seiryu Stone will raise your ph, but I'm not sure about TDS. You could run some tests on the rocks or stones you want to use. I wish I had done that instead of believing the lfs that said they were shrimp safe and not finding out they raised tds until a few months after the tank was running and stocked. If the stone you'd like to use passes the fizz test, the next test you could try is to see if the stone affects water parameters. You'll need a container larger enough to put the stone in and cover it with water. Fill the container with water (preferably RO water) and test the ph, gh, kH, and tds before you add the stone. Make a note of the test results and when you did the tests, then put the stone in the container of water. Cover it with glad wrap or something to stop anything like leaves, dirt or bugs that'll drown in it getting into the water and possibly affecting the test results. Every few days for the next few weeks test the water in the container and compare the results with your first lot of tests. After a few weeks you'll know if the stone affects you water parameters. Some stones will stop leaching out whatever is causing the changes to your wps after a short or long while. So if you make a note of all your test results and when you did the tests, you might see the stone stops changing the water parameters and then it might be safe to use in your tank. I'm a bit fussy and a worrier, so I'd start the test again with fresh water just to make sure lol.

gota love a little bill! and that sweater is on point, then again his sweater game was always strong! man i can just imagane that peacock moss in 6 months, its gone be wild!

There isn't enough gelling agent in Repashy if you add too many other ingredients. Equal parts of spirulina, chlorella or bee pollen will be too much, and it will not set firm. You can experiment adding a bit of spirulina, chlorella and bee pollen at a time, taking note of how much you add. If the result still gels up and sets firm , then you can add more. If it doesn't set, then you need to reduce the additional ingredients. Repashy is a premix that wasn't designed for additional ingredients.

Yippee!!! Just spotted our first CRS shrimplet!! Can't wait to tell Miss 4 in the morning and show her the photo. She's going to be so excited and will probably spend most of the day looking for it and anymore that may be hiding in there. She still gives their tank kisses and cuddles, and proudly shows them off to everyone. Not sure if it's from one of my CRS or one of hers, but I'll let her think it's her first she shrimplet. She's going to be so proud and will probably be all she talks about at kinder tomorrow. Here's a pic of our first bubba!

To treat the algae. Take it out. Mix the 3% H2O2 with water at 50/50 ratio. Drip it over the algae area. Leave it for 2 minutes (not too long or your plant will die). After that rinse it with tap water and soak it in dechlorinated water. This will remove the chlorine from tap water. Then you can put it back to the tank. Your shrimp will eat the dead algae and plant. If the algae persist, you may need to do it after 3 to 5 days.

LOL!!! 35% usually is BSP grade. Unless they are lower than BSP grade and they just call it food grade. LOL!!! Your quote says everything. :) By the way, handle 35% with care. It burns through your skin very fast. I always sterilise my aquarium containers and tools with 3% H2O2. Sometimes when I forgot to wear gloves, the skin of my fingers will burn right through within a few minutes until no finger print. Just imagine what the 35% can do to you. For the aquarium, you just need the 3% BSP grade type.

Hopefully. Plus just interested to see how long it takes for the Peacock Moss and grow to the stage I want it at, I'm thinking 12 weeks. I'll do a water change tomorrow to lower the pH, use rainwater.

Hopefully by then I'll have a nice little family of CRS in there.

its hot again here in Adelaide 40degrees and although we have ducted air conditioning it's an evaporative one and doesn't work really well in high heat and humidity. Hubby and I plus the fur babies are down in our bedroom with the aircon and ceiling fan on and reasonably comfortable but next door in the shrimp room it's a cool 24 almost cold even ! If it gets hotter I'm moving into the shrimp room,! They have refrigerated air conditioning- something not quite right here! The CRS tank is not so lucky it's in the lounge but it's 4 computer fans are keeping it between 2-23 so they are working well - being a 200 litre tank probably helps.

I prefer the term Narcotically Challenged.

were in adelaide too and my wife and I moved our bed to the shrimproom last night :-) we've decided to set it up like that til late March when it starts cooling down ;-) ps very cute dogs u have ineke!

I dont think there is any need for gifs of this guy on the forum.

Hahaha, I see no problem with the shrimp room being colder than the house, mine is climate controlled at 23deg & my shrimp definitely eat better than I do, lol.

They're adorable!

Ha! Says you, crack lips!

So you guys think there is a problem, Sorry can see it, so no problem. You know serious fishos when the car is out side and the garage is full of tanks and that's how it should be. Dam I am glad we don't have to put up with temps over 35 and with exception of this year over 33 is only 2 or 3 days usualy. Toughen up Ineke and go live with the fishes or in your case shrimpses Bob

Sorry to hear that Jen. Having lost a major part of my collection last year I know how devastating it is. Good luck with your new babies.

This is sad new Jen. I hope your shrimp recover strongly from this.