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I missed out that point in the first post. This sort of products will kill bacteria too. The tank's eco-system might be in a mess now. When nitrobacter and nitrosoma is not doing their job, aerobic bacteria will bloom. I think this is a chain of event causes all these and the shrimps might be killed by many factors. -___-" I guess jayc has closed this case. ;)

It's got to be the Internal Parasite Clear. That's the only thing that you seem to have done recently to the tank that is out of the norm. Despite using half dose, it could still have been miscalculated. Despite a few people having tested it, it's not 100% guaranteed to not kill juvies or shrimplets. It is lethal to hydra and planaria afterall. We might need to be careful to inform others using this product to include a mandatory water change after it has taken effect in killing hydra/planaria. Leaving your shrimps to soak in the water with Internal Parasite Clear just means they are exposed to the toxins for longer. You did a water change after each dose, but that might not have been enough water changed. Two half doses (Wed and then another one on Sunday) with small water changes might still equal 75% dose. Might be better to have half dosed and not dose until another week later. With a 50% water change in between to reduce the amount already in the tank.

It really depending on many aspects. A well designed leave-in food should be one of the following: Powdery enough to slowly flow down the substrate for feeding the microbes or critters It is in tiny pieces that you could control the dosage accordingly. This will attract microbes and zooplankton and, the shrimp will consume them. The food should disintegrate within a few days and goes into the substrate. If the food does not disintegrate, it should not contain substances that is hard to be broken down by microbes; this is to prevent pollution of water. For the soy hull, it supposed to fall under type 2. But the problem is that it is in pellet form and you can't dose accordingly. If your tank has hundreds of shrimps, this may not be a problem; the shrimps should consume them within 2 to 3 days. However if your shrimps can't consume them soon enough, it will pose potential pollution problem. IMO. If there are plenty of them left over after 2 to 3 days, you should suck out as much as possible and leave just a couple of pieces in the tank to feed the microbes.

Been using Tapatalk more and more. It's certainly easier on the mobile than the full site.

Cultivating Instant Beneficial Bacteria How to make instant beneficial bacteria for your aquatic tanks. Didn't know where to put this, it could go in Health & Care, or Water Parameters. I have added it in Water Parameters since we talk about bacteria and cycling in this subforum. It can be used in aquariums for shrimp, fish, koi pond that beneficial bacteria needs to be introduced instantly. Cycle new tanks within days, rather than weeks. With a slight modification of the ingredients, you can create one for Marine tanks. So, I have a surplus of Mosura BT-9 that I don't know what to do with. I do not want to throw it away. So remembering my DIY days of activating yeast and fermenting sugar to turn it into CO2, I thought I'd activate the bacteria in BT-9 and turn it into a DIY Instant Beneficial Bacteria tonic with added minerals. I locked myself up in my "mad scientist lab" and ran some trials. My real journey into creating this really began in 2013 when I completed my review of the Azoo Max Bio Ball here - http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/index.php/topic/4631-azoo-max-bio-ball-review/ After reading up on the use of probiotic cultures containing Bacillius spp being used in the commercial aquaculture industry. Using retail products like BT-9 is much safer than playing around with pure bacillus probiotics, since it is at much lower levels. Those that dabbled in DIY CO2 or home brew beer can probably see where this is going already, but for those that didn't play with DIY CO2 or Beer this is what you need. Ingredients: 1) Mosura BT-9, 8gm or roughly 1/2 teaspoon 2) Sugar or Raw Sugar, 30gm or roughly 2 tablespoons 3) A plastic bottle, (I used a 600ml Tupperware plastic bottle- plastic is thicker). 4) Kettle for boiling water 5) Tongs for handling things in boiling water 6) Pyrex mixing jug. 7) Measuring utensils / syringe 8) Optional - Prodibio Trace Preparation: a) Boil some water. The preference is to use Reverse Osmosis water. Alternatives are distilled or demineralised water. Boiling the water removes any harmful bacteria or micro organisms. Tap water contains chlorine or chloramines, so avoid, if possible. If you have no other alternative, treat the tap water first to remove chlorine/chloramines, at least a day prior to starting. Tank water already contains some bacteria, and I don't want it influencing the outcomes. So I avoided tank water. b) Sterilise the bottle with the boiling water (Be careful if you use those thin plastic water bottles, it will melt). Sterilise a pyrex mixing jug <-- It's got measurements on the jug. Sterilise the tongs. Sterilise the bottle cap with the boiling water. c) Pour about 200ml of boiling water into the pyrex mixing jug. Add 30gm of the sugar into the pyrex mixing jug. Mix the Sugar until it dissolves. You'll have roughly 400ml in the mixing jug. Transfer the mixture into your cleaned & sterilised bottle. d) Leave the Sugar solution to cool to room temperature (still warmish but not boiling hot). e) When the Sugar solution has cooled, add 8gm (~1/2 teaspoon) of Mosura BT-9 into the solution. f) Place the top on your bottle, being careful to handle it with the sterilised tongs. g) Tighten the cap and shake, to help dissolve any remaining sugar and mix the BT-9 in. h) Leave the bottle in a warm dark place for 2 weeks (in summer); or for 4 weeks in winter (bacteria is slower at multiplying in the cold). Swelling of bottle should take place and is completely normal. This is a sign of the bacteria activating and consuming the sugar. A word of warning: the gases released stink, so if the household is sensitive to foul smells, release it outside. This fermentation time is required to let the bacteria multiply, and to consume the sugar. Just like in DIY CO2 production. i) Invert the bottle twice every 2 or 3 days to mix the culture. If the bottle is building up pressure (hard when pressed), release the pressure by opening the lid slight before inverting the bottle to give it a gentle mixing. Again, no need to shake it violently. We just don't want pockets of sugar in the bottle. Note: if you use a glass bottle, you will just need to release the pressure build up every 2-3 days, cause you won't get any indication of pressure build up in a glass bottle. Sorry, no pictures this time. There was nothing exciting to see. The end product is just a dark brown colour soup similar to black water extract but with good bacteria. Dosage: <I have adjusted dosage amounts, as the first suggestion might have been too aggressive> New tank: Use syringe to measure 3ml per 10 litres of tank water At weekly water changes: Use 1.5ml per 10 litres of water Non water change dosage: Use 1ml per 10 litres of water For larger batches, you can scale up the ingredients to suit your required bottle size. Observations: In winter, the prepared bottle can be stored for up to 6 to 7 months. In summer, the bottle can be stored for up to 3 to 4 months. As an option, you can add a vial of Prodibio Trace into the bottle to make it even more potent. Trace contains all the microelements needed for aquarium life - amino acids, enzymes, natural vitamins. Store in a dark, cool place like in your tank cabinet, and avoid extreme heat or cold to let the bacteria last longer. Make smaller batches at a time and ensure you use it up within the period mentioned above. This is not a product you want to be keeping for too long on the shelves. This will be a good test to see if the bacteria additive product contains beneficial bacteria or not. If the bottle doesn't bloat and ferment, then there is no bacterium in the product. In fact, if the mix does not ferment and release gases, then DON'T use it. As it clearly does not have bacteria in it and you are just going to add a sugary mix into the tank. Sterilising the equipment and bottle minimises harmful bacterial pathogens being introduced, and affecting the potency of your Instant Beneficial Bacteria cultivation. Please note the extra precautions in sterilising. Turn off UV sterilisers or Ozone generators for 2days after dosing. I have noticed shrimp being more active, and the tank never looked so healthy. The shrimps have long stringy poos, which means a healthy gut system. The tank walls have developed a blurry haze of biofilm, which means more food for new born shrimps, and hopefully greater survival rates. Use it while transporting fish or shrimp, with a few drops in the bag. Use it on new tanks - prepare it in advance of setting up new tanks. Let me know how long it took you to cycle a new tank (I'm interested to know). Just turn the heater up and add this. Or use it on old tanks to boost your filter's bacteria. Cost: Well for me virtually nothing, cause I used ingredients already lying around. Alternative products: These are untested, but you could replace BT-9 with Borneo Wild Enlive, ADA Bacter, ATM COLONY Freshwater, Prodibio Bio Digest, or any quality bacteria additive. I'm working on version 2 which uses ATM Colony and Inner Health Probiotics powder ($20-$25) where the latter contains nothing but Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium lactis. Which are great for the shrimps internal gut flora. Since BT-9 doesn't list what bacteria it contains, we will have to assume it's various spp of Bacillus. So by using ATM Colony instead, which claims contents of "true nitrifying bacteria" where it contains "real Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria" and with the added Bacillus from Inner Health probiotics powder, I will have nitrifying bacteria plus bacillus flora in one. But that's another article. Best By date & Storage: Depending on where you store it (cool dark place), I would suggest not keeping it for longer than 3 months. No specific reason, just a precaution.

I have been participating in some of the Auctions and agree, some of the items listed are questionable. I have noticed since I started listing mine as Tbm and with parentage listed I have recieved many pms asking what Tbm means. I have started seeing others using it now. I guess it is just setting the example and hoping others will follow suit. That's where this forum is extra important as the newbies can learn what to look for prior to purchase.

I keep most of my sensitive Taiwan Bee shrimps in TDS ranging from 250 to 350 and they are doing great. GH is more important than TDS. To be exact, it is the individual nutrient levels in the water. For example, Na, K, Ca, Mg, Mn, Fe, Zn, Sr, SO4, PO4, Cl, MoO4 and BO4. GH is a easier and cheaper method of measuring the meso minerals (Ca & Mg), however, it will not tell you the exact level of the rest of the nutrients. If you are using RO replenishing minerals from respectable brands, be it it is for fish or "specialised" for shrimps, they should be more or less the same. The lesser the TDS the salts, the less substances are inside. In theory, it will be even more lacking in those nutrients I mentioned above. Most commercial salts are in the TDS race against each other. They accomplished this by using salts that has lesser free electrons, such as chloride. In actual fact, TDS does not tell you anything, except how conductive the water is. Generally, field scientist or I only used it to measure the changes to the amount of dissolved solid to detect overdosing, changes to ecosystem or pollution. The absolute value is pretty meaningless. As such, don't get too obsess with TDS. With frequent water change, your tank water's TDS should remain the stable from 1 month after you start up your tank till 5 years later. One thing to take note about GH. The lower the pH, the higher the GH you will need; the acid will soften and wear out the shell faster. For example, you may need 6dGH for pH 5.8 water and you may only need 4dGH for pH 7.4 water. Shrimp needs stable water parameters instead of the water parameters of other's tank. Hence, if the salts you are using are working fine with your shrimps, then just continue using it and avoid changes. If you are intending to change anything major, it is better you use it in a new tank.