Newb here.

[Clutchology]

I initially started off with a yabby tank a year ago, but got sick of them killing each other. Started looking into shrimps recently and just got hooked since.

However that seems to be the start of my frustration. My 70L tank isn't completely cycled, but did reuse the previous filter media with yabbies.

My stats are

pH 7.7

kH 7

gH 11

ammonia 0-0.25ppm

nitrite 0ppm

nitrate 5ppm

phosphate 5ppm (was >10ppm before I inserted phosphate removal pads)

temp 25c with Eheim heater

java moss, java fern, 2 ambulia and a live rock. ~3 hrs of light a day.

Leaf zone fert once a week.

Started off with 11 shrimps, 6 died over the course of the month, mostly smaller/male shrimps. To complicate things I found 2 dragonfly larvae which I removed yesterday, and also 2 snail like bugs on my rock I also removed yesterday.

The 5 shrimps left are very inactive, and don't get excited with food anymore.

ive been trying water changes to be more frequent 20-30% every 3 days but nothing has changed. Is it still because of my high phosphates? Anything else I can look at?

[BlueBolts]

Welcome to SKF. Presume the shrimps you're referring to are cherry shrimps? Although PH, KH & GH is all within the acceptable WP, I'd lowered them, and check your TDS. Good to also know your tap WP.

[newbreed]

Welcome clutch!! Ask lots of questions and post plenty of pics where you can!!

[Squiggle]

Welcome to the forum, definitely the best place to be to learn about shrimp, always someone here only too willing to answer any questions & we don't believe in dumb questions here, so ask away! I'd have to agree with BB, your WP(water parameters) look acceptable for cherries & definitely have a look at your TDS(total dissolved solids), you'll need to invest a couple of dollars to get a TDS pen, they're pretty cheap on eBay, you want it to be lower than about 200ppm. Hope you have as much fun here as wel do! :victorious:

[Clutchology]

Thanks for the replies

Tap pH: 7.8

kH 7

GH:12

My TDS meter is en route and should be here early this week.

You guys reckon my phosphate level is acceptable?

Phosphate in tap is 0-0.25

[fishmosy]

Hey mate, welcome to SKF. You might need to consider converting to RO (Reverse Osmosis) water remineralised using SaltyShrimp (or similar) shrimp minerals. It is more expensive but may give you better success and less frustration in the long run rather than trying to lower pH and high TDS using other methods.

Is the phosphate coming in from the plant fertiliser?

[warren63]

Hi and welcome to the forum, enjoy!

[Clutchology]

Oops yes it's cherry red shrimps I'm referring to.

I'm only using API leaf zone as a fertiliser. Doesn't seem to say it has phosphates. LFS also said it should be safe to use.

I also read that phosphate and nitrates are inversely related such that a low nitrates usually means high phosphate. Does it mean I don't have enough shrimps in there to produce nitrates creating an imbalanced water parameters?

Though I'm quite hesitant to put in more shrimps till the existing ones appear healthier.

[jayc]

API leaf zone only contain iron and potash, no nitrogen or phosphorus (NPK).

You mention you have java moss, java fern and a live rock.

Java Fern and moss does not need much, if any ferts, in a shrimp tank.

And what is a live rock?

I know what it is in a Marine tank. But not in a fresh water tank for cherry shrimps.

This could be your source of problems, if the rock is unsuitable for a shrimp tank.

A high phosphate could be from too much decaying matter or too much food.

What are you feeding your shrimps? Try some fresh food like leaves.

[Clutchology]

I assumed a suitable rock that I can put into the aquarium was a live rock? sorry guess i was wrong (newb lol). It was just purchased from my LFS to hook my java fern onto.

I usually just feed 2 pellets of crab cuisine every 2nd night normally, which they were actively eating initially. I tried blanched kale later on but they didn't even touch it. Now they only eat 1 pellet and it takes them over 3-4 hours to finish.

How do i check if my problem is coming from the rock? As i did see 2 snail-like parasites hanging onto it..

[Clutchology]

It seems that RO is the way to go unless I want to have to play around with peat or indian almond leaves.

This hobby is just getting more and more expensive ;(

[jayc]

I see. It's not a "live rock" then. It's just a rock.

Might be helpful if you can find out what type of rock it is from your LFS.

Alternatively you could do the vinegar test on it to see if it is reactive.

If it takes them 3-4 hours to finish one pellet of food, then hopefully you are cutting back to 1 pellet as well. Especially until your beneficial bacteria numbers increase.

As BlueBolts has mentioned, it's a good idea to try lowering your KH & GH.

Your tap water parameters doesn't help the situation, as it seems to be coming out at those high readings.

Your ammonia source could very likely be from the tap water as well. Chloramine used in municipal water is made up of Chlorine + Ammonia. What are you using as a water conditioner/dechlorinator ?

RO water plus remineralising products like Salty Shrimp or MOSURA Mineral Plus Ultra really is the best option.

Alternatively collect rainwater and remineralising with Salty Shrimp or MOSURA Mineral Plus Ultra.

[Clutchology]

The ammonia level measures exactly the same in my tap water and in the aquarium both are 0-0.25ppm. I'm currently using API quick start which says it limits ammonia and contains nitrifying bacteria and API stress coat+ which removes chlorine. I put both into the water I use to do WCs and not the directly into the aquarium.

I'll read up on the vinegar test with the rock.

Appreciate all the replies by the way.