Jump to content

newbie


bobby

Recommended Posts

hello to all the shrimp keepers here,i'm looking to start my journey into shrimp keeping soon

i'm thinking along the lines of a 45cm cube,using ada substrate,plus the powders,eheim classic for the filtration

up aqua led for lighting,thinking of red rilli's for livstock....thanks for the add

cheers darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks fishmosy,just having a little trouble talking the miss's into,as i become easily addicted to keeping the run of the mill tropicals

in a 4ft aqua one tank,but we have since moved house's & i had to give up my 4ft tank,that's why i thinking of only a 45 cm cube,it just mite

get me in the good books....lol cheers darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum, definitely the best place to be to learn about shrimp, ask as many questions as you like cause there's no dumb questions here. :encouragement:

Sounds like you have a really cool setup & some rilis to get on your way, well done! :victorious:

Hope you have as much fun here as we do! :smiley_simmons:

funny-animal-gifs-classic-gif-hurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr_zps8a11a1ba.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to SKF, looks like you've done some research, and are well into your way with shrimp keeping. :encouragement:

Enjoy the forum, we've got a great community here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

welcome to the family you will find everything here so ask as many questions you want if you need a hand everyone will give you one :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks guy....only real question is regarding ada substrate,do i need the 5 different powders..? also how do u calculate

how much of the powders are needed..? also are both the soil & powder soil needed..? still in research phase atm

cheers darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum, and the addiction, Darren!! Good to see more Ballarat shrimp keepers!!

I cant answer your substrate query, as I only use Benibachi, but I am sure you will get more responses soon!!

Rillis are a great strain to start with and they can have great patterns.

Good luck trying to keep only one tank, a good way to get past the other half though, once you keep and breed one variety it is really tempting to branch out. More tanks usually follow......

Look forward to your updates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks guy....only real question is regarding ada substrate' date='do i need the 5 different powders..? also how do u calculate

how much of the powders are needed..? also are both the soil & powder soil needed..? still in research phase atm

cheers darren[/quote']

Welcome bobby! I just love that name, it's sounds so friendly :o

Which powder are you reffering to?

The ADA amazonia soil powder type or those powdered water treating ones like bacter100 or penac W?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I set up my tanks I sprinkled a couple of teaspoons of Benibachi Bee Max & mineral powder down first, then normal size substrate with a top layer of powdered substrate, HTH. :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

both types.....bunnybom.......i believe the powders go first then the soil' date='then the powder type soil..?[/quote']

Yes, that's right.

You don't necessarily need bacter100, penac and etc. It's only optional and is up to you whether add them or not as they are quite pricy.

They are good if use them, but not essential:)

You shall use the dose that manufacturer recommend.

Similar phase applies to powder soil.

Normal sized and powder sized soil only differs in their granule sizes and nothing else.

Powder soil is recommended to use on top of normal soil and high of only around 1-2cm is fine.

It'll prevent wastes from submerging under the soil and produce ammonia under the soil.

However if you are using ADA soil, pls be careful of algae outbreak.

[ATTACH]6049[/ATTACH]

As you can see from the table above, ADA soil is really high in phosphorus which can cause brush algae outbreak!

The ratio of N, P and K is almost 1:12:43 which you'll find really nonideal.

It's too high in ferts and frequent water change is recommended during cycling period to get rid of bits of ferts.

However you can balance this out by using ADA powersand along with ADA amazonia.

ADA powersand (special)S is recommended as bacter100, penacW and few other ADA substrates are added to this item and you can save moeny buying all those from beginning.

However DO NOT use ADA powersand with other branded soil as it's crazily high in N and K.

ADA powersand is made only to balance ADA soil and if it is used with other soil, it'll cause outbreak of spot algae this time :crushed:

It's a lot of headache using ADA soil, but once you sort other probs, it's really good for your shrimps :barbershop_quartet_

You can either go for Benibachi soil to avoid long cycling period.

post-346-139909855361_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the info bunny,next question how do u calculate,how much of each i would need for a 45cm cube...?

powders,powersand,soil,powder....etc the cycling time not a issue,would rather take my time & spread the cost out

cheers darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...