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Algae help?


Sprae

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Looking for any advice to treat the following

Black beard algae

green spot algae

I'm just really careful about any treatments as I've got shrimplets and a few berried females. More naturally I'm thinking of getting 1-2 otos. May need to spot dose BBA with H2O2 but total noob with this technique.

BTW I'm letting go of my planaria issue, also sometimes finding small thin worms floating in the tank.

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Water flow, circulation may assist...I've always reluctantly used H202 ( freaks me out injecting acid into my tanks )!' BUT never had any issues. Spot dose, and be conservative. With nano tanks, we'll need to monitor the PH fluctuation with the spike in O2... What's your % of H202 ?

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Sprae, cut down the lighting, Also get a magnet glass cleaner for the GSA. BBA and GSA are both caused due to insufficient co2 and too much lights/indirect sunlight.

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H2o2 I have is the 35% food grade type. I need details on how to dose. But would adding the oxydator help with algae control?

Might shutdown lights for 2 days? I'm surprised my DAS haven't clear GSA.

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GSA is too hard to eat. You need a magnet cleaner sprae :)You can get a nanomag on ebay for under $20.

H2o2 I have is the 35% food grade type. I need details on how to dose. But would adding the oxydator help with algae control?Might shutdown lights for 2 days? I'm surprised my DAS haven't clear GSA.
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green spot algae is one of the best things you can have in a shrimp tank, the shrimp/shrimplets love this stuff and all my best breeding tanks

have this at least covering the back wall of the tank.

but this comes down to preference of the way people like there tank to look also.

you will find though, that if you have this type of algae on al least the back wall of your tank that your survival rates and general happiness of shrimp

will be greatly improved.

all other algae can be spot dossed with H202 or the addition of the sochting oxydator does wonders for algae suppression.

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Thanks Dean! I may just clear only the front glass panel with the power magnet and keep the rest with algae. If I can't see my shrimps clearly then what's the point ;)

Very keen to get the oxydator now! In your article http://www.bossaquaria.com.au/h202-mixing/ how long can I keep exccess mix of the 6% solution? Should I keep it in the fridge?

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Really Dean?Do the shrimps eat it? I dont mind the back wall but front and sides just bug me. Ive cut down lights and its seems to dissapear though. Is brown algae any good?

green spot algae is one of the best things you can have in a shrimp tank, the shrimp/shrimplets love this stuff and all my best breeding tanks have this at least covering the back wall of the tank. but this comes down to preference of the way people like there tank to look also.you will find though, that if you have this type of algae on al least the back wall of your tank that your survival rates and general happiness of shrimp will be greatly improved.all other algae can be spot dossed with H202 or the addition of the sochting oxydator does wonders for algae suppression.
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@ Loach , i will take a pic of one of my tanks with green algae and it consistently produces the most babies.

brown algae is just annoying and of no real benefit that i have noticed.

always keep this in mind though!!

a tank used for/ by breeders is not treated the same way as someone that wants there tank to look pretty and clean.

you can breed very well in almost any tank setup but the best ones "in my experience only" are the over grown algae covered tanks that you do nothing to.

if i new how to make the green spot algae grow faster i would do everything i could to grow it. for me it is just a long term algae.

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you dont need the 6% solution for the mini mate, just the 4.9% that comes with it. and when you need to mix it in the future you just break down the ratios to mix exactly what you need so you dont need to worry about storage etc. :)

Thanks Dean! I may just clear only the front glass panel with the power magnet and keep the rest with algae. If I can't see my shrimps clearly then what's the point ;)Very keen to get the oxydator now! In your article http://www.bossaquaria.com.au/h202-mixing/ how long can I keep exccess mix of the 6% solution? Should I keep it in the fridge?
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Pheewwfff. One of my CRS tanks is filled with green spot algae, now I have an excuse not to clean it all out!!

@ Loach , i will take a pic of one of my tanks with green algae and it consistently produces the most babies. brown algae is just annoying and of no real benefit that i have noticed.always keep this in mind though!! a tank used for/ by breeders is not treated the same way as someone that wants there tank to look pretty and clean.you can breed very well in almost any tank setup but the best ones "in my experience only" are the over grown algae covered tanks that you do nothing to.if i new how to make the green spot algae grow faster i would do everything i could to grow it. for me it is just a long term algae.
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true SAE will eat BBA quickly, just ask foxpuppet. i gave him mine after they cleared my tank and now they cleared his tank too and theyve grown HUGe!! lol

sometimes other fish are mistakenly sold as SAE so make sure u get them from a reputable source. in my knowledge they are the ONLY animal tht eats BBA

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SAE are great at eating BBA when they are young, but once they reach adult size not so much. I sell my adult ones off and buy new small ones.

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SAE are great at eating BBA when they are young' date=' but once they reach adult size not so much. I sell my adult ones off and buy new small ones.[/quote']

Perhaps they are the very similar species 'false SAE'? Eat algae when young and stop when they grow up?

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So SAE is ok with shrimps? I've got shrimplets in my tank.

I really don't know, my planted community tank is very low on rcs numbers since adding sae, they are just so curious and nibble at everything so eating shrimplets would be no surprise.

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I currently have a tank with nothing but all kind of mosses infected by thread algae, last week I added 5 young SAEs (which I won't feed) I got of livefish and it seems like the thread algae is reducing but not to an extent that its all gone. Will continue to monitor and if successful, will sell them off to LFS or FS thread.

From my previous experience, adult SAEs get really fat and lazy and will as Foxpuppet mentioned nibble on things which move i.e. shrimps.

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I currently have a tank with nothing but all kind of mosses infected by thread algae' date=' last week I added 5 young SAEs (which I won't feed) I got of livefish and it seems like the thread algae is reducing but not to an extent that its all gone. Will continue to monitor and if successful, will sell them off to LFS or FS thread.

From my previous experience, adult SAEs get really fat and lazy and will as Foxpuppet mentioned nibble on things which move i.e. shrimps.[/quote']

SAE is out then. I'm actually keen to see how the BBA will survive with the oxydator in there. I can already see some of it has start to turn pale/white.

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Perhaps they are the very similar species 'false SAE'? Eat algae when young and stop when they grow up?

No, i definitely always buy the true SAE. By adult size i mean >10cm. Mine still graze regularly up until 8 or 9 cm or so, then I dont tend to notice them grazing, more tend to see them eating flake or frozen foods.

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i put 6 sae in one of my breeding tanks to get rid of string algae etc and they did it perfect, the tank was as clean (after 10 days) as it was the day i set it up :)

BUT i also lost about 100 baby shrimp which i assume they ate. now the sae have been banished to the sumps to live out there life :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

try adding some darwin algae shrimp and some darwin red nose shrimp. DAS are better at eating algae, but DRNS look cool. they are shrimp safe..being shrimp themselves...

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