Jump to content

Noob Sponge Filter question...


Dostalgia

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Never ever heard or seen sponge filter in action, until I started researching on shrimp keeping... So i have really no idea how this work, please excuse some noob question i am about to ask.

First question, besides an air pump (what type and how big?) and sponge (again what type and how big a sponge filter?) is there anything else i am missing here?

I have tried youtube to see some videos, the sponge filter seems to create alot of surface agitation, is this good or bad for shrimp keeping?

Since the sponge filter is air driven, in winter, will this cause temperature fluctuations in a nano tank?

I have an eden 501, i kind of like how it works and the flow doesn't seem too strong for shrimps.

So for my second 45m tank, would i be better off with another eden (with sponge protecting the inlet) or should i invest in a sponge filter? I quite tempted to get an eden511 (instead of a 501) with the internal heater option (anyone know where i can a set in Au or Melbourne, please let me know me! :X)

Many thanks in advance!

EDITED TO ADD: Tank size is 45cm x 22cm x 30cm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Question One: Yes that is all you need. Sponge filters work using air displacement. As the air bubbles rise to the surface they drag water with them, which creates a current that draws the water through the sponge and out of the tube (uplift pipe).

The type and number of sponges and airpump that you need will depend on the size of your tank. Can you post it up so we can better advise you on this?

Surface agitation is good for shrimp as it ensures high dissolved oxygen levels and helps to remove carbon dioxide from the water.

Temperatures in winter should not be hugely affected by using an air pump unless you have the air pump outside and drawing in cold air. Most air pumps are warm to the touch, in part because as you compress stuff, it warms up. So the air being compressed inside the air pump would be warming up anyway. Regardless, if you suspect your tank will get cold in winter, an aquarium heater will keep everything warm.

Never used the Eden filters so I'll let someone else comment on that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't thing there's a "rule" to the size of sponge filters to tank size volume.....the larger the better (more surface area, as the sponge becomes a smorgasbord for the shrimps to munch on).....

I've used both the Eden 501 / 511 ... Thought they were good, BUT depends on your tank volume. I tend to aim for a 8-10 times turover (i.e. if tank is 30 lt, my cannister filter would do a 240-300 lt/hr). I eventually swapped them for the eheim 2211.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for the Eheim over the Eden. :victorious:

Also, with the sponge filter I think fishmosy has explained it better than anyone could, well done mate. The only info I can add is that you don't want too much air going through it as it becomes counter productive & there will be more air in uplift than water. My general rule is that you turn up the air till you can hear it then slowly turn it back till there is no sound from the bubbles. When you start to set it up you'll understand what I mean about the sound. :victorious:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love sponge filters. Yes like fishmosy said all you need is an airpump .

Filtration requirements vary wildly from tank to tank. It all depends on stocking levels, feeding amount and frequency, water change amount and frequency, plants vs. no plants, substrate vs no substrate etc.

If you are fiddler (someone that reorganizes the tank regularly and generally just have your hand in the water weekly) get the best filter you can.

I don't fiddle, do not overfeed, do regular water changes and sponge filter maintenance, so I find sponge filters are great.

Though I am yet to try first hand how sponges only do for high end shrimp.

Short answer is you cannot over-filter, but you definitely can under-filter a tank. If you are not too experienced in aquariums I'd go with a canister filter with sponge on the intake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well put Ben, the only thing I will add is only clean your filters in a bucket of water from the tank, this is to keep a much bacteria alive and working as you can and don't waste the water give it to your favourite plant, it will grow well. My belief is clean and filter should NEVER be in the same sentence as well as blocked up should not be in the same one.

Serkan is a twice a year clean regular enough for you??? one I cannot clean as it has Vall growing in it, yea I know I am slack and twice a year is not recommended.

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply fishmosy and everyone else.

have updated tank size to my original post :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the only thing I will add is only clean your filters in a bucket of water from the tank' date=' this is to keep a much bacteria alive and working as you can and don't waste the water give it to your favourite plant, it will grow well. My belief is clean and filter should NEVER be in the same sentence as well as blocked up should not be in the same one.[/quote']+1 That is what cleaning a filter is; squeeze the sponge half a dozen times in the same bucket during the water change every 30 water changes or so; earlier if you notice the filter struggling. Regular enough for me ;) I always argue that my tanks for breeding and raising fish not display :encouragement:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a fairly small tank so any of the smaller commercially available sponges will suit fine. I like this type

http://www.aquariumonlinestore.com.au/products-page/aquarium-filters/air-driven-filters/double-bio-sponge-filter-lge/

as I think they look better in shrimp tanks than the stand alone types,

http://www.aquariumonlinestore.com.au/products-page/aquarium-filters/air-driven-filters/sponge-filter-104/

however I mostly use large stand alone types in my tanks because most of my tanks are three foot long or bigger. Note the the twin filter is reliant on suction cups to hold it on, and the suction cups will lose grip and need replacing from time to time.

Either type would suit, its up to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a fairly small tank so any of the smaller commercially available sponges will suit fine. I like this type

http://www.aquariumonlinestore.com.au/products-page/aquarium-filters/air-driven-filters/double-bio-sponge-filter-lge/

as I think they look better in shrimp tanks than the stand alone types' date=

http://www.aquariumonlinestore.com.au/products-page/aquarium-filters/air-driven-filters/sponge-filter-104/

however I mostly use large stand alone types in my tanks because most of my tanks are three foot long or bigger. Note the the twin filter is reliant on suction cups to hold it on, and the suction cups will lose grip and need replacing from time to time.

Either type would suit, its up to you.

Thanks fishmosy for the advise!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a new question, I saw some pictures where the person have connected a canister intake to a sponge filter.. is that even possible? Is there an adaptor for it or do you have to DIY yourself?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah this is a very good idea, it stops the shrimplets getting sucked into the inlet of the canister. I don't think there is a commercially available adaptor for this, definitely a DIY thing. :victorious:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have done something similar, we attached a powerhead to the top of a sponge (it was for ciclids so it 'super-powered the suction) One downside was when the filter clogged it all 'sucked in' and didnt allow any more filtration.

To answer your question on the DIY, we heated the clear plastic tube that comes out the top of the sponge(with a heat gun), and jammed it onto the base of the powerhead- it now fits perfectly!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • HOF Member

I just used the sponge itself from the sponge filter - they come off for easy cleaning - and popped that over the canister intake with the plastic guard from the canister intake left in situ. Works a treat and the baby shrimp love it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks everyone for the advise :)

the diy option seems very easy and without a need of power tools, will definitely look into it :)

Cheer! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
    • ngoomie
      Hello! I have a tank that currently does not contain shrimp, but does contain neon tetras which I am currently treating for Ich, as well as some bladder snails. Shrimp will be a later addition, likely cherry shrimp but I'm still doing research just to be sure. Initially I'd intended to buy some sort of Ich-fighting product that contains malachite green after doing a decent bit of research on it, most of which indicated that it should be shrimp-safe so I'd be good if I ever needed to use it again once shrimp were actually introduced (though I should note I'm aware shrimp can't get Ich, I'm more wondering in case the tetras could get Ich again, or something else that responds to similar medication). I ended up not being able to find any MG-containing products without either having to travel quite far or wait multiple days for delivery (which I was worried could lead the Ich to be fatal), and ended up picking up 'Top Fin Ick Remedy', a product that contains gentian violet which is a triarylmethane dye like malachite green. The bottle has two slightly differently worded warnings about its use with invertebrates ("not recommended for" and "not safe for" respectively), but when I'd been researching malachite green, I'd also heard of products that contain MG but not any other ingredients that would be harmful to inverts still being branded with warnings that they could be harmful, just as a "just-in-case" since the manufacturer didn't test it on any inverts, and I'm wondering if maybe it could be a similar situation here. I'm having a very very hard time finding information about gentian violet's use in fishkeeping at all though, it seems currently extremely uncommon. What I will say though is that I'm on day 2 of treating my tetras with it, and the bladder snails seem just fine -- in fact today I noticed what looked to be a bladder snail that appeared to be newly hatched (because of its size) that I hadn't seen before that was zipping around the tank without issue. But obviously, shrimp are not snails, and bladder snails are also notoriously hardy little guys, so what I'm seeing right now could easily be totally inapplicable to cherry shrimp. It might even be inapplicable to other species of snails, for all I know. Has anyone else here ever used anything that contains gentian violet in a tank that actually does contain shrimp? Were they okay, or should I make sure to not use it once shrimp are added?
×
×
  • Create New...