Jump to content

Shrimp dead


hoang1912

Recommended Posts

I got some shrimplest die in the last few days, then doing research and have some question to ask:

Is it disturb the substrate by vacuum made it release toxins?

Rusted pieces can cause dead?

My Wp is good except GH is 6, is it the main reason?

Because I leave the tank in my study room, sometime I have lunch in there, does it effect to shrimp? ( food smell)

hopefully can find the reason. Hate to see the shrimp is dying T.T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My gh is 8 and I'm successfully keeping tAibees

food will not effect them

i suggest u stop doing gravel vacs as this will cause a massive ammonia spike if not done properly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks 2OFUS. I think that is the main reason. Should I do some water change? I did 2 times 10% on Tues and Thus already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vacuuming your soil will kill shrimplets. Only disturb the soil in small portion at a time if needed to plant or decorate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks 2OFUS. I think that is the main reason. Should I do some water change? I did 2 times 10% on Tues and Thus already.

Stop with the water changes for 2 weeks or so to let your tank stabilise again

what size tank is it ? How many litres

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why have you got rusted pieces of metal in your tank? I'd say remove them as well. It could be leeching toxins into the water that are harmful to young shrimplets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also becareful if you are using CHEAP telescopic(extendable) nets

as they hold water inside the metal extendable part and rust out

i once had a cheap net I was using for a long time and one day I closed the extendable part and BLACK water came oozing out

It was from the rust

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rusted from the ceramic moss holder. I did remove it yesterday.

My tank is 3ft. I think vacuum substrate is the main reason of my situation.

Abt the net, I am using plastic, not metal extendable :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for your loss, its all part of the hobby, all part of the challenge. Hope they do better soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Chi. Hopefully they will recovery soon.

Just not understand, vacuum the substrate cause increasing the ammonia, but when I test ammo, it's yellow which mean 0......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gh 6 is fine, rusty things is not good.

Why you gravel vac? Shrimp tanks take at least 6-8months to get any real sort of

Crap build up in soil and need cleaning, if at all.

Sorry for the loss :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Dean. Because there are many of "worm" in the gravel that's y I did it. Didn't know that gravel vac is not good for shrimp tank.

As 2OFUS said, I should leave the tank for 2 week without changing water and let it stable again.

After that, properly have to buy some shrimp to growing up my colony again :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are know if its the same as the shrimp i keep guppys neon tetras and all small fish as the neon tetras they are not that hard any drastic changes will kill them,

when i vacuum my tank i do per square example every day i facuum very well a spot of 10cm x 10 cm that way u wont stress the fish and don,t make a mess around the tank

i dont know what vacuum are you using i use a eheim vacuum and they are awsome they release some small particles out of the mesh, thats why i do bit by bit, i know it takes time but its worth it, if you are using vacuum that suck water out and do whater changes like that. i use to use it but takes to much water and u wont clean much, get a eheim vacuum they are good for it,

i have a 3ft tank as well and those eheim work fantastic i do agree witrh the felles member here you should not do to many water changes in your tank 25% every 2 weeks should be good as for vacuum the gravel like DEAN say it takes time for your tank to build up crap in it, every 6 week i vacuum my tank bit by bit and never had a problem

now i dont know if its the same for the shimps am a noob in the shimp hooby, but after reading and asking 10000000 question and the 5000000000 answers i thing is pretty much same as the fish, any ways sorry for your lost is part of the hobby many ppl had losses, like i say is part of the hobby don,t worry every one learn from they mistakes

hope to see some new photos of shimps in your tank keep us posted. and ask many questions as you wont everyone would guide you very well here.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for advise. Learn a lot from this mistake :">

Dont we all :( the worms arw they

planaria? If so head to the diy section and watch the video on the bottle trap ... I do it weekly and it works amazingly well :-) no harm too many of shrimp at all:thumbup: I use a pce of prawn as bait

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since nearly a week from a first shrimp dead. Still have some more in last few days, mostly sub-juvi and 4 female (2 holding eggs). I still cannot find any reason which made them dead.

Aboout substrate vacc, I dont think I effect for that long time. Just did check WP, all is good, GH still 6. Guys, are there any reasons?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can't count out the possibility of disease/bacteria...remove all shrimp into a different tank and do a proper clean of the one with issues, clean the filter, clean the soil, tank, etc. Maybe get some live bacteria and get a UV steraliser...I dosed mine with cycle every week, add Bee Max and added a Uv steraliser, this seems to have fixed my issues with unknown shrimp deaths.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chi, can you explain in detail for me plz? Currently I got a 1 ft tank which have no issue. Might move them to the new tank. There are many shrimplest in my 3ft tank, it will take a day to move all of them :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alot of members here go through that stage when they seem to loose Alot of berried females for no reason with the right water setting. I think it is something that we will never know the answer but change our set up or routine to prevent this from happening again. Some example is try not to add shrimps from unkwown seller ( bacteria) , add a uv light, add good bacteria every week, check your nitrate. In my opinion, it's important to change yourself how you do things otherwise the problem will repeat itself again in the future. Just my opinion .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • HOF Member

What is the good bacteria I've seen it mentioned but no one has said what it is they use?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How to you add bacteria? is it using stability? Currently I dont have UV fertilize, doing some research what is it benefit :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chi' date=' can you explain in detail for me plz? Currently I got a 1 ft tank which have no issue. Might move them to the new tank. There are many shrimplest in my 3ft tank, it will take a day to move all of them :D[/quote']

Easy just move them all to the 1ft...wash everything that was in the tank or shared water where shrimp were dying and start again! This time you might want to get some live bacteria(add weekly) to help stabilise the good bacteria and add a good quality UV steraliser. I thought A UV was not needed too but if you are keeping expensive shrimp then I think it is a must as disease/bacteria can kill your shrimp costing thousands of $$$, not saying that even with a UV you will not get disease/bacteria but it will limit the possibility.

Or if that is too much hassle as Dean advised me add a BIG bag of carbon in filter and get a UV steraliser...add some live bacteria weekly, I use Bee Max and for live liquid bacteria something like Nutrafin Cycle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@hoang, the first step is make sure nothing in the tank that has the problem comes in contact with your other tank. For example don't use the net in the problem tank and then use it again in another tank. If your problem is bacteria them you are transferring bacteria from one tank to another (assuming its bacteria). You must isolate the problem tank. I think chi can help you after that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for advise guys. Currently, I had 500g Aquaone carbon in the filter. I am deciding to get a new canister with the UV light (will transfer the media(ceramic ring, carbon and replace plastic ball with seachem matrix) from the old filter).

Are we using seachem stability to add bacteria every week? Also, Am I need to do water change?

If I dont need to replace my filter with add in UV light, which light should I buy, can u recommence 1 for me?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...