Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Heavyd

How to remove the bane of my aquarium - Utricularia!!!!!

Recommended Posts

mr_c265

It's not carnivorous like Ultricularia Gibba if that's what you mean, it's only nasty if you don't like it, it'll get all through and over and around everything.

If you like it, no harm done. One of the better nitrate sponges around too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sushant
I thought I would bump this up and ask again.

I'm ready to take this war on Utricularia to the next level.

Does anyone know which of the following mosses and liverworts can withstand a peroxide dip and/or having it syringed into the aquarium?? And at what concentrations? 3% or 6%?

Weeping moss

Fissidens

Mini pellia

Peacock moss

Thanks for any help you can offer.

i guess none of them can withstand peroxide, the only effective way of removing them is by hand picking them.(one of my friend has been working hard for the last 2-3 years but has not succeeded in getting rid of them.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KiwiBigD
It's not carnivorous like Ultricularia Gibba if that's what you mean' date=' it's only nasty if you don't like it, it'll get all through and over and around everything.

If you like it, no harm done. One of the better nitrate sponges around too.[/quote']

Sorry, you're wrong. All Utrics are carnivorous but the traps are finer, its main prey are water flea larvae and similar. There is actually a meeting tomorrow night of the Australian

Carnivorous Plant Society in Burwood with a presentation by a good friend Greg Bourke. But yeah, this species just has targets different prey, I actually used to grow this plant

back in the UK and sold/traded a fair amount of it with other European CP Growers, some of the utrics are absolute stunners with gorgeous flowers particularly if you look to the

tropical and brazilian species such as Reniformis, Alpina etc.

But removing this from a tank is just a killer, I gave up, saved some cuttings and started from scratch again. So much time wasted with no gain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mr_c265
Sorry' date=' you're wrong. All Utrics are carnivorous but the traps are finer, its main prey are water flea larvae and similar. There is actually a meeting tomorrow night of the Australian

Carnivorous Plant Society in Burwood with a presentation by a good friend Greg Bourke. But yeah, this species just has targets different prey, I actually used to grow this plant

back in the UK and sold/traded a fair amount of it with other European CP Growers, some of the utrics are absolute stunners with gorgeous flowers particularly if you look to the

tropical and brazilian species such as Reniformis, Alpina etc.

But removing this from a tank is just a killer, I gave up, saved some cuttings and started from scratch again. So much time wasted with no gain[/quote']

I meant the nitella mate :p

I know all about all the Ultricularias, have them EVERYWHERE.

Especially in my Daphnia culture.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • jayc
      Ahhh ... the age old question of how to trigger your shrimp to breed. We will have to assume you have at least 1 male. What are you feeding them? Feed frozen bloodworms twice a week. The additional protein will give them more energy. Add more Indian Almond Leaves (aka Cattapa leaves) to the tank to promote more tannins and biofilm. Try raising temps to 23C or 74F. A 10% water change might help the females moult.
    • jayc
      No it won't have all the minerals needed for plants. SS GH/KH+ is made up of Calcium carbonate, Magnesium.   Anubias is a slow growing plant, so it does not need much fertilisers. Mosses will grow with out any added ferts. Hairgrass and whatever you have in the back corner will survive without added ferts. Give it CO2 while your tanks is empty of shrimps.    Aim for 4-6 GH.  
    • Newday
      Hello, again.  I really appreciate everyone's wisdom on this topic.  Since I last posted, I lost my 29 gallon tropical freshwater aquarium to a sudden leak. 😞  Thankfully, I was able to save and rehome all the fish.  But, that means my 7 gallon shrimp tank received an upgrade wrt live plants and gravel.  I was hoping that would inspire some mating behavior, but I actually witnessed a female discharging what must be unfertilized eggs just this evening.  The male shrimp (I thought I had two, but now I'm questioning the other's sex after some weeks) is not doing his job and I can't figure out why.  I had to siphon out 50% of the water to move it from it's prior location beneath the 29 gallon.  I have not performed another water change in the nearly 3 weeks since the leak happened.  I check the parameters in the 7 gallon once a week and ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite are 0ppm.  Temp remains at a steady 72 degrees.  The shrimp are as active as ever but that male is unexcited by a tank full of females.  No clue what to do next.😑
    • DEL 707
      I'm thinking of ordering that "Salty Shrimp - Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+". My only concern is, does it also have all the needed minerals for my plants? Edit - If I was to use my tap water, what kind of GH should I be aiming for?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      WOW, that's hard water all right! Amazing how different it is to mine as probably only about 25 miles between us???? You were right to use RO water so at least you have a good starting point from here in! The PH may be the biggest issue as remineralising with a shrimp specific GH/KH+ will sort everything else with RO water. Cherry shrimps are pretty tough and adaptable so will tolerate PH below 7 but the nearer you can get to 7 the better, and a long time acclimating the shrimps using a dripper (there is a tube with regulator sold by ProShrimp for about £10 I think if you don't already have something) will be needed! The soil will take longer to loose its PH buffering ability with the RO though! There are a number of ways you can go from here: 1) RO water plus a GH/KH+ and try to get the PH up somehow although you will be fighting the Soil until that exhausts its buffering ability. 2) You could mix RO and (dechlorinated) tap water at 3:1 and then use a GH+. I do a 50/50 'similar' (half tap water, half brita filtered water) on my oldest tank. can't even remember why but I believe in 'don't try and fix it if it isn't broken' so have just carried on ever since. The mixed water would start at PH 6.2, TDS 70(ish), GH just over 4, KH just under 4 and then you can mineralise it (GH+ only) for the rest. This will exhaust the soil buffering quicker than 1 above and you will save a bit on RO water, use less (about half as much) mineraliser etc. You may think this is a bit too fussy a route though, and the soil will still buffer anyway, just not for as long as all RO water, and when it stops buffering you will have a PH closer to the ideal for the shrimps. Probably where you are now I would just get the snails for now until you have stopped adjusting the water or at least decided where next, probably not much longer before you get shrimps. I would also try turning off the CO2 and just see if it is really needed, if it looks like it is you can easily turn it back on then, but shrimps will do better without it and it MAY not be needed, same for fertilisers??? At least you are doing all this before getting the shrimps, very smart as most of us have learnt the hard/wrong way................ Simon
×
×
  • Create New...