Jump to content

Tiger shrimp confusion

Recommended Posts

Good morning all,


I am new to this (forum and shrimp keeping) and this is my first post! Thought I would start off by clarifying some of my confusion about tiger shrimp. I was initially under the impression the tiger shrimp was a Caridina Cantonesis shrimp (along with Bee and Crystal shrimp). If I am not mistaken that is the case with all tiger shrimp except tangerine tigers who are Caridina Serreta? Recently I have found some information online that said tiger shrimp are Caridina Mariae instead and are different than Caridina Cantonesis. 


On a separate note is there a simple explanation for the different between different tiger types, like Royal vs Fancy. 

I don’t even know where to start to figure this out, it’s hard finding this information online. Any help would be much appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Mdindy said:

Recently I have found some information online that said tiger shrimp are Caridina Mariae instead and are different than Caridina Cantonesis.

Your initial impression that Tigers are Cantonesis might be because they were all classed under this name a long time ago. Recently, (I say recent, but it has actually been 5+ years now), evidence has shown that Tigers are a different sub species and therefore given a new scientific name of Caridina Mariae. 


10 hours ago, Mdindy said:

different between different tiger types, like Royal vs Fancy. 

I'll try to give you an simple explanation.


Fancy tigers are hybrids. The term "fancy" is just given as a name to indicate that the Tiger has been breed with another species to produce a different pattern. It started with crossing Crystal Red Shrimps(CRS) and Orange Eye Blue Tiger(OEBT). And has now evolved to crossing with a Taiwan bee to produce a splotchy pattern. You can get a variety of colour like Red, or Black Fancy tigers being the most common. They are still essentially Tibees. But they have a distinct splotchy pattern.


Red Fancy Tiger Shrimp (end 12/7/2020 12:15 PM)

You still get the distinct tiger stripes but they are a lot fancier in colouring.

Compare this to the original tiger shrimp Caridina Mariae below ...

Supertiger, Caridina mariae var supertiger orangetail ...


This one below is of an extremely high quality Fancy Tiger. Full colouration, no clear spots. The lines between red and white are clean and crisp, no blending of colours. The red and white colours are rich and intense. Legs are also coloured in red and not clear. This one is almost certainly a PRL cross Tiger.

Hidden Gems by KK Lam - MADSHRIMP



Blue Tigers are a bit easier to explain.

Royal Blue is a colour variation name. It's just a name to distinguish it from the normal Blue tiger.

Blue Tigers are ... blue with the trademark tiger stripes.

Royal Blue as an extremely dark blue colouration, the stripes almost disappear in the intense dark blue.


Pictures speak a thousand words ...

"Normal" Blue tiger.

Blue Tiger Shrimp Information | Aquatic Mag



Royal Blue

Royal blue tiger shrimp | Aquariums and natural habitats ...



Anytime you hear of a term added before the name of the shrimp, its usually a colour variation.

Hope that helps.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      We just had another 3-4 hot (for UK) days where the tank seems to have gone up to 26 and I think no shrimp died this time, though last time it got a bit higher the smaller shrimp died off so I guess they are more sensitive to the heat. I took the cover off the tank so that any heat can rise. I have just tested the parameters and they seem to be great, Ph 6.5, Gh 5-6, Kh 0-1, TDS 134 so aim to stop using unmineralised RO water from here onwards. If the remaing shrimp seem ok for another 2 weeks (as they have for the past 2 weeks) then I will likely get one more delivery of about 20 shrimps, 10 red wine, 5 panda and 5 blue bolts???? The shrimp that have survived so far are the blue bolts, all the pandas died off but they were the first added when the parameters were further off, and about half the blue bolts also died but they were very small  ones mainly and as mentioned, I think the heat did them in. So, it is looking quite hopeful at this point but I will make that final decision at the end of the month. If it is still going well and there are no more deaths I will order some more shrimps and look into getting some sort of fan cooling setup for future hot periods!  How is it all going your end beanbag? I think my Betta won't last very much longer, he is just sitting at the bottom and won't eat, lt can't be the water getting too hot as the shrimps are fine and the water likely only topped out at 28 degrees max. as with the other shrimp tank, as they are next to each other? There isn't anything visibly wrong with him other than not eating or swimming around as he used too. 
    • beanbag
      have a fan blow across the top of the tank, or get one of those U-shaped air conditioners that allow you to keep the window mostly closed
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I just watched the video again. With that tank I would take 1 of the sponges and put it in the left compartment (where he put the heater in the vid) and the heater can go in the middle section with the other sponge, so that would work well and be very simple and no extra costs or modification involved. The water level in the back drops either because the pump is set too fast (if it is adjustable) or mostlly just because the sponge directly behind the inlet slots is getting blocked. Somtimes just pressing the sponge insitu at the top will blow some of the gunk back into the tank, but you will probably need to take the sponge out weekly to clean it, though I imagine you would probably do weekly water change/maintenance anyway. The tank in the video is also quite good because the back is covered so that will help with reducing evaporation from the back working part, mine was open/uncovered at the back so evaporation was more of a problem. I freaked out when I saw the level drop in the back the first time, especially as I had a glass type heater in the back! If you only very rarely need a heater then you could just put that in the main part of the tank on those rare occasions to be safer? As you say, you have time to see if you even need a heater but I suspect you won't as indoors will be warmer than the outside temperature overnite, and I have seen vids on youtuube where some Australians keep Neocaridina shrimp outside all year with no heaters in huge tanks or even ponds, and I doubt there is anywhere in the world where the temperatures don't fluctuate between night and day so all creatures must be ok with that (within limits of coarse).  My problem last week was the same only opposite, overnite it dropped to about 13 degrees outside but inside overnite it rose to 28 because the sun had heated the roof etc all day, so I did lose a few shrimps then (but they are Caridina so not as adaptable or tough as cherry shrimp), only babys though strangely? Of coarse, it's your winter now, whereas it is our summer. Do you have A/C in the house for the summer, even Neocaridina won't survive much over 30? I only have a portable room one which requires a tube out of the window hense I couldn't leave it running overnight as it is a ground floor room!
    • DemonCat
      Thanks for the response and interest! I'm planning on ignoring everything about the filter media provided and will do my own thing. But yes, a simple idea to save shrimp is put the filter right next to the intake bit.. I hadn't thought about that and was already thinking about adding mesh... your idea is much better and straightforward.  In regards to heater, where we are in Australia it gets 40 degrees in summer, but we had -7 last week at night.. this morning was a much warmer -3! The heating in the office is a bit whack too... it seems to be boiling hot or freezing cold, so the heater is something i'll just play 'wait and see' with. I don't propose to stock for a while anyway so will have substantial time to monitor the temperature and see if/how/when a heater is needed.  I saw a short youtube video on the water level at the back.. I'm glad I watched it / you told me because if I went in without knowing I'd be freaking out the first time I noticed it. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I had a very similar tank to the petworx one and they are very clean to look at and easy to maintain, but obviously you are losing some volume/floor area for the shrimps to inhabit. You will probably need to work something out so the shrimp don't get through to the back area, especially babies (sponge behind the slots etc) - you may be able to just move part of the sponge to that compartment looking at this video:  I would only get a 25w heater, I learned my lesson when my 50w stuck on and cooked the shrimps in my 35L tank. 25w should be adequate as you have a much warmer climate, in fact do you really even need a heater? One drawback with this type of setup is that the level of water in the back can drop drastically when the sponge starts to get clogged, though this is mainly only a problem with the heater which may break in insuficient water, or the pump in really severe circumstances. You will need to clean the sponges at least weekly.  The level drop in the back can look quite alarming when you first see it happening.  The other makes may also have the same issues? I would have thought nearer $250 as it already has a light and pump, and if you don't need a heater? I tried the 'let the idea fade away', but it keeps returning???
  • Create New...