Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Cainey

Welcome Cainey

Recommended Posts

Cainey

Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Cainey.

Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

View Member

regards,
skfadmin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cainey

Hey everyone, I’m new to shrimp and I’m looking to keep everything really really low tech. I have a 150 litre tall tank that is super old, it was handed down and has sentimental value.

It came with what I’m told are ghost shrimp, but all I know is they are clear and there is lots of them. There are also guppies and a bristlenose catfish and lots of Malaysian trumpet snails, it’s planted with corkscrew Val, java moss and java fern.

When the tank was moved to its current location all of the adult guppies died, I’m pretty sure they had Ich from poor water quality and general stress- an unavoidable occurrence in this situation and also out of my control.

The babies have been growing for a few months and are all nearly full grown, their colours are filling in and tails getting big and very pretty. 

If you hadn’t guessed I’m quite green and that’s why I’m posting here, in the last 3 weeks a friend with the loveliest of intentions bought and added two albino Cory cats while I wasn’t home.

All the fish in the tank are now scratching and rushing the substrate and appear to have inflammation around the gills. I researched and I’m positive it’s flukes after I have done two weeks of “aqua one” broad spectrum remedy and they are still affected.

All the research I did said to buy API general cure but that isn’t saleable in Australia I don’t think.

My question is- if the tank has flukes what can I do when I have both plants and shrimp? A suggestion from an elderly/ old school aquarist is potassium permanganate aka condes crystals, should I do that? And if so at what dilution? If not, what are my options. At this point in time I’m treating the whole tank as if it’s a quarantine tank and medicating everyone. 

Temp sits around 26c And has tidal55 HOB filter and an air driven sponge filter. 

Edited by Cainey
Spelling error
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

This is going to be difficult to treat with a mix of fish, shrimp and snails in one tank without harming something.

Shrimp might be OK with PP. "Might", i have never tried PP on shrimp. But snails will die from PP. One of the problems with PP is that overdose can kill all bacteria in the tank good or bad regardless. 

Formalin + Malachite Green will work on fluke as well, but it's lethal to shrimps and snails. 

Any copper treatment will also work, but again bad for shrimps and snails. 

See the trend?

Is there any chance of catching and treating all the infected fish in a separate hospital tank?

Maybe even treating the fish in a bucket for an hour and returning them (minus the PP treated water) back to the tank after. But this method requires several repeat treatments. which means catching them again. Use the tank water, so there is no large change in parameters. Maybe you can return them to the main tank but into a breeder cage instead, so you can catch them again easily.

Are you sure it is fluke?

PP depletes oxygen in the water severely, so make sure there is plenty of aeration. 

While the fish are in quarantine, the main tank needs a good water change and clean the gravel and filter media at the same time. I'm assuming this has not been done for a while. 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cainey

Thank you so much!!! I was thinking about a dip too after reading further, wouldn’t the whole tank be infected and the dipped fish just be reinfected when returned to the tank? 

Would it be helpful if I removed the shrimp and snails (all I can catch, there is plenty!) treat the fish in the tank and return them after water changes are done. I can use the established sponge filter to setup a bare bottom qt tank. (I have old empty tank in storage) I would put something in there for shrimp to hold onto. (I have lots of wood) My concern would be that the contagion would be returned with them to the main tank. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
7 hours ago, Cainey said:

Would it be helpful if I removed the shrimp and snails (all I can catch, there is plenty!) treat the fish in the tank and return them after water changes are done. I can use the established sponge filter to setup a bare bottom qt tank. (I have old empty tank in storage)

This would work the best. Move the inverts out to another QT tank and treat the main tank. Especially when fluke treatments can be as long as 3 weeks - initial treatment, and re-treat 3 weeks later. <-- don't forget this 2nd treatment 2-3 weeks later.

 

7 hours ago, Cainey said:

My concern would be that the contagion would be returned with them to the main tank. 

Inverts are not affected by fluke. just don't pour the water back into the main tank. Just net them. And don't reuse the filer or wood back in the main tank without at least boiling it.

Alternatively, you might want to keep the shrimps and snails separate long term. 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • Steensj2004
      Update.   Manual removal has stopped, seems to be under control. Light has been lowered on day cycle to try to combat over lighting. Baby shrimp are showing up more frequently now as I gander around the tank . I’ve received the lid kit and will be assembling that and doing a water change tonight.   In other news, I’ve ordered some Black and red crystals to bolster population of reds, and add some blacks. The fish are for a friend’s tank( we like to combine orders to save a few dollars). He offered me half of the emeralds, but I think I’ll steer clear anyway, I’m sure they would eat baby shrimps, even as small as they are. Maybe I’ll take him up on the offer once my colony is booming, as he’s putting them in a designated breeding tank.  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Hope it all works as you want it too so you can get everything settled with the tanks at last so that you can build your collection! Simon 
    • kms
      I've just received my Hailea HC130A today, I can  confirm the HC130a does have a PC type ball bearing fan shown below. I have also put a external temperature probe, only took less than a minute to do, it is connected with a SM2.54 connector which is readly available, the probe house the male side of the socket. there are two notch at the front bottom of the chiller that you can lead the probe cable out of the chiller, so no drilling of any sort needs to be done.   My unit was a little scratched at one side and near the panel, the scratch was expected for product coming from china, the radiator fins at some part was a little pushed in and bent, but I put then right so all is good. The chiller came with 4 hose connector, but are all same size, I think it should come with two size, but i'm alright with that.   I haven't full tested it yet as the chiller was sent to my work place, apparently the water pump I had at work was too weak to move the water, so I have to test it at home, the probe is working fine.   Thanks JayC and sdlTBfanUK  for all your advice.  
    • jayc
      This is where the TDS meter will come in handy and make things easy. (And part of the reason we recommend shrimp keepers get one). With a TDS meter you just add enough of the dissolved mix into the tank (or water change) until it reaches 150TDS as measured with the TDS meter. Without a TDS meter, just follow the instructions and dosage below: Instructions of use Mix with water outside of the aquarium. Shrimp Mineral dissolves almost completely within seconds, and the water is ready for use at once. Please make sure that any undissolved particles go into your tank, too. Close container after every use at once as this mineral salt absorbs moisture. Dosage Use Shrimp Mineral to re-mineralise RO water, rainwater, fully desalinated water etc. to reach a total hardness of about 6 GH and/or a conductance of about 300 +/- 50 uS (Microsiemens). For this purpose, an evenly full measuring spoon (about 2 g) to 10 litres (2.2Gallon) of water is sufficient. While not as accurate without a TDS meter, it will get close. You can always adjust the TDS reading after you get your TDS meter.   Weekly water changes of 10% as per normal, with the new water adjusted to 150 TDS with SS GH/KH+. If it is particularly hot and you notice the water level of the tank dropping, you top off with pure RO or Distilled water, no remineralising needed. In summary, Water Change = Add SS GH/KH+. Top Off = straight distilled.  
    • Razzy
      I have a 20 gallon long, I'm trying to figure out how many scoops of gh/kh+ to use and how to test it.  I'm buying distilled water since my tap sucks. What is the dosage for the powder? And do I just measure to get something close to what cherry shrimp parameters are suggested? How do I do water changes with the minerals? Or is just top offs what I should do? Just straight distilled or add some salty?
×
×
  • Create New...