Jump to content

Having issues with some of my red cherry females


Pedro Lopes

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

i am fairly new to shrimps but have some experience with planted aquaria and terraria. Got a small colony of red cherries and some of my females are acting strange, namely some lethargy, hiding...assumed that it was because of being berried and some extra stress but got 3 deaths in a period of a week or so. Tested my water, ph is 7,5, kH - 4º, 0 amonia, 0 nitrite and 10 mg/L nitrate (fertilized by me), temp 27ºC, coming down as we speak (checked your basic care sheets) to 23ºC mark.

the females all appeared to be on ecdysis (just assuming) because their carapace was swollen like this image that i took today of one of them.

Anyone can give me any advice?

large.IMG_20170106_140159.jpg.7c00b6389alarge.IMG_20170106_140458.jpg.dcecaef74e

Edited by Pedro Lopes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi @Pedro Lopes, I am sorry to hear of your troubles.

I am looking forward to other members responses and will share my experiences below.

The female in the above photo will unfortunately not survive and I would highly recommend humane euthanasia as the tissue is exposed on the top part of the carapace, even if she makes it a few more days, she will probably succumb to infection. This happens when the shrimp is forced to molt when they are not yet ready as they have recently molted, thus the healthy shell is lifting with just the exposed tissue underneath. This is not a parameter issue over time, this is caused by human actions unfortunately.

I have seen this occur in these circumstances: Adding too large an amount of shrimp minerals to the tank at once, too frequent water change/too large a water change, or if a clear line forms behind the head slowly over time, it is usually due to over feeding with too much protein and the shrimp outgrows it's shell faster than it is evolved to do. 

You have mentioned the other shrimp are hiding. The water is either changed or they are not feeling well due to feeding.

I would recommend NOT doing a water change at all and to stop feeding for 2-3 days. When you refeed, you want to ensure it is plant leaf based food, not protein or shrimp snow. Are you perhaps over feeding?

While you are not doing water changes, I would highly recommend adding Seachem Purigen or API nitrazorb to ensure all your levels stay in check.

Your shrimp will come out of hiding when they feel better, and the best thing to save as many as possible is to offer them extremely stable water, thus by not changing or adding anything. Medication is not an option. As frustrating as it may be, by not changing the water, your shrimp might be fine in a few days.

If more shrimp partially molt, euthanasia is the only option as shrimp are unfortunately not going to recover well. Some shrimp with deformed shells that are not too bad might recover, but you might find that they do not survive the molt after the next one for some reason.

I hope this helps your trouble shooting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your advice.

The feed that i was giving is protein based yes. The feeding is stopped and i added moss to the tank. Will continue to let them graze on the plants that are available. I will control how the N cycle develops and check its parameters and stop fertilization at once. There are about 10 adult shrimp and some very very recent young (seen 3 of them not bigger than 2 mm at the same time, so probably there's more). Thinking of feeding maybe a 1 cm blanched spinach leaf square every 3 days? or other vegetable... will check the list on suitable veggies. Do you think its ok? too much?

 

Thank you for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are welcome @Pedro Lopes, the spinach sounds like a good idea as a weekly meal option. You are essentially only feeding 10 adult shrimp as the babies do not count. Usually, depending on the manufacturer, a 7mm square food pad for shrimp feeds 30 shrimp. Shrimp have a 4-6 hour digestion, so it is ideal to feed twice a day by dividing their daily ration in two parts. Any green- based shrimp food will do like EbitaBreedQuattro or EbitaBreed Spinach tab, Dennerle Shrimp King food etc to offer them variety in nutrition in their captive environment. Spinach is a great food, but does not contain enough variation in nutrients long term as an only food source if your colony expands. Shrimp are mineral intensive and need organically complexed mineral sources from a wide variety of foods.

Happy shrimping??

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

Shrimp are mineral intensive and need organically complexed mineral sources from a wide variety of foods.

 

That is my sort of poetry!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
    • ngoomie
      Hello! I have a tank that currently does not contain shrimp, but does contain neon tetras which I am currently treating for Ich, as well as some bladder snails. Shrimp will be a later addition, likely cherry shrimp but I'm still doing research just to be sure. Initially I'd intended to buy some sort of Ich-fighting product that contains malachite green after doing a decent bit of research on it, most of which indicated that it should be shrimp-safe so I'd be good if I ever needed to use it again once shrimp were actually introduced (though I should note I'm aware shrimp can't get Ich, I'm more wondering in case the tetras could get Ich again, or something else that responds to similar medication). I ended up not being able to find any MG-containing products without either having to travel quite far or wait multiple days for delivery (which I was worried could lead the Ich to be fatal), and ended up picking up 'Top Fin Ick Remedy', a product that contains gentian violet which is a triarylmethane dye like malachite green. The bottle has two slightly differently worded warnings about its use with invertebrates ("not recommended for" and "not safe for" respectively), but when I'd been researching malachite green, I'd also heard of products that contain MG but not any other ingredients that would be harmful to inverts still being branded with warnings that they could be harmful, just as a "just-in-case" since the manufacturer didn't test it on any inverts, and I'm wondering if maybe it could be a similar situation here. I'm having a very very hard time finding information about gentian violet's use in fishkeeping at all though, it seems currently extremely uncommon. What I will say though is that I'm on day 2 of treating my tetras with it, and the bladder snails seem just fine -- in fact today I noticed what looked to be a bladder snail that appeared to be newly hatched (because of its size) that I hadn't seen before that was zipping around the tank without issue. But obviously, shrimp are not snails, and bladder snails are also notoriously hardy little guys, so what I'm seeing right now could easily be totally inapplicable to cherry shrimp. It might even be inapplicable to other species of snails, for all I know. Has anyone else here ever used anything that contains gentian violet in a tank that actually does contain shrimp? Were they okay, or should I make sure to not use it once shrimp are added?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58BrDSEY8KE  
    • beanbag
      One interesting thing he mentioned was "Bacteria pressure", which I guess just means number of bacteria around.  Yet I see all these other videos from shrimpkeepers bragging about how much bacteria their filtering system holds. Also interesting is no mention of using anti-biotics to treat bacterial infection.  I think that has fallen out of favor recently.
×
×
  • Create New...