Jump to content

How breeding neocaridina yellow?


nicpapa

Recommended Posts

Hi there who breed those yellows?

Its the only shirmp  that had problems. :)

I loose them 2 times.


The first time I had them before 4-5 years they begin multiply , after a year stop breeding, and the shrimp get old and loose them all.

Before two years i buy new from germany from 8 shrimps i get 200+ , and then again stop breeding , get older and i had in the tank only 2 males.

I buy again 2 females , and raise them to 170-180 and again i dont see a sandle or eggs.

Whats wrong with those shrimps?

Its the only species doing this .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Friend of mine bought a bunch of 10 yellow. They did grow ealthy, nice color and good size. The female get berried several times, but not a single shrimplet show.
They died one by one in less 2 months, till 2 survived only

Then, he bought a second bunch of 10. Same story, when finally, as they were 4 left, 2 berried females finally gave birth. At the moment he is up to around 20 yellow... we cross fingers

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are difficult for sure.

I found that calcium rich treats like mulberry leaf in addition to a good shrimp food helped, and just keeping the water parameters stable is handy.

Mine don't breed for ages then the whole lot of them go crazy and breed like hell.

I'm very sure that Biozyme has helped with my shrimplet survival rate.

Edited by rawprawn
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto!!! I'm glad you raised this topic @nicpapa and I also sympathise with you as well @Matuva I've had difficulty with YCS survival and with getting consistent breeding results too.

I've got my fingers crossed that things will go better for me now I am about to have another clear attempt at establishing a colony. In my case I started with 20 juvies in Feb 2015 and they had to endure a house-move and several very noob mistakes over the first 3-6months. Basically I found some would get berried but mostly the berried ladies would drop all or all but a handful of babies and then the odd shrimplet would survive here or there and I raised the numbers to almost 40.

I culled about 10 and sold approx 15 of my YCS back in january leaving me with I think about 10 females and 3 males but now for the past 2-3 months I've noticed most of the females usually saddled but seemingly refusing to moult and berried. The high calcium food trick @rawprawnsuggested might be worth considering in my case. A number of people recommend giving high protein feed to encourage saddling and/or berrying. In any case since my tank move and parameter/conditions reset the colour is better and I'm making several changes and giving it my best go with a year or mores experience under my belt now.

The changes/improvements I've been making or are in the process of making are (in no particular order) -

-Strict lighting regime.

-Temperature and WP stability, keep on top of WC and ensure CA:MG ratio is looking good.

-Much larger aquarium.

-Matching the WP of the breeder who has sold me the shrimps (happens to be using SS GH+ and pH 6.8-7 while I was using GH/KH+ and had pH of 7.4-7.6).

-Using active substrate.

-Gentler waterflow throughout most of the tank.

-More diverse flora and added variety of driftwoods.

-Keeping nitrates very very low.

There might be more I can't think of but I'm inspired to do trawl through some of the threads on SKF and elsewhere for diet and nutrition info. I know there was a great thread @jayc wrote listing the calcium (and potassium?) content of a big list of foods somewhere here!

I'd also love to hear more from anyone else here who has or has not successfully kept and bred YCS!

love n peace

will

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha so im not the only. :)

Maybe some genetic ?

I dont have problems with the shrimplets grow or keep them , but why shrimps stop when rich a number, and dont begin again.

I dont have big tanks its around 30-40lt.

I try diferents substrtates, seachem , gravel, gravel with aragonite , akadama, all had the same results.

Raise temp to 26-27c.

Big -small  water changes .

Adding seachem discus mineral.

The last time i moved to  a new tank 170shrimps , no sandle no eggs.

My lights is 12hours.

Before i was keep them at :

Kh 3

Gh 5

Tds 140-160

I have co2 in the tanks my ph is about 6.7-.6.8.

Now i raise the gh wiht salty shrimp at 8-9 and tds to 180.

I see a lot of molts , and shrimps get biger,males going crazy. :)

I dont thinks that water parameters is the problem.

In all parameters shrimplets survive and grow but after population increase , shrimps stops breeding and sadle.

I put 10 of them in crs tank , just for a back up. :)

Yes i feed them mulbery for the ca, and now nettle, also hikaria algae wafers had high ca.

Try shrimp daddys some product for biofilm.

Now waiting some food to try.

With other shrimps there is not problem like this.

From a 30lt tank, I remove 500-600 orange shrimps, and still there was a lot of female with eggs and sandle.

When i move them to another tank

IMG]

At feeding

IMG]

 

 

Edited by nicpapa
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm I never had an issue with yellow cherries in the past. I didn't do anything special, had them in a 4ft tank with good water flow, low growing carpet grass and pogo helferi. No heater, pressurized CO2 and insert substrate (1mm black pebbles). I did water changes maybe every couple of months and straight from the tap with Seachem Prime. Pretty much the same as what I did with my recent chocolate colony. pH was around 7+, not sure about the other parameters.

Some old pics:

gallery_25_9_167129.jpggallery_25_9_69415.jpggallery_25_9_52250.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe the problem is with small tanks.

Its not a difficult shrimps, but it stop breeding. :)

Nogi did you remember what gh kh have the tap water? 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've had some luck since we discussed this subject. I've just found eves on one of my soon to be pride and joy :-)57c43a544502ace65b3d21f0d1734cc0.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • HOF Member

I would consider myself a reasonable shrimp breeder. I had nearly every colour of the Neos and bred them well EXCEPT Yellows. I got them to breed but never had them survive long term - never longer than 12 months-  I never managed to get to the bottom of it and have spoken to many breeders who have the same problem or they get them to breed a couple of times then they stop and never start again. I would really like to try them again now I have even more understanding of breeding and water conditions but just don't know if I want to subject even more yellows to my apparent incompetency with them. I don't understand why I bred Reds, Blacks, Blues, and beautiful Rilis but my poor Yellows just didn't thrive. Even with varying water parameters, trying RO, tap water, low ph high ph medium ph.  Different substrates, plain gravel nothing made a difference, after 4 tries I gave up on Yellowsimage.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi after months of trying still nothing ...

Boring wiht those shrimps...

dont know why , they do this think.

I left with 20 shrimp, in a 50lt tank, and still no sandles no eggs...

Trying with crs water, same thing.

If now i buy 2-3 females , thet sandle fast and get eggs.

But after some months , after raise to 200-300 shrimps it will hapen the same.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow ricpapa that's no fun at all. Sorry to hear they are proving to be such a drag ...

I can say that the few berried ladies I have mounted to nothing unfortunately. No shrimplets survival at all... zero.

Then they stopped getting berried at all. Meanwhile the CRS in the same tank kept breeding beautifully..

I've been away for 5 weeks now but just before I left I caught those ycs and placed them directly into an unoccupied tank with pH of around 6 without any acclimatisation (and they were in a tank with a pH of around 6.5).

The shock from the sudden move resulted in two shrimp being berried within days it will be interesting to see what has happened while I've been gone. I'm quite bored with them too so if this effort fails then my ycs adventures might be at their end as well.

Love n peace

Will

Love n peace

Will

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
×
×
  • Create New...