With such a great number of hobbyist joining the forum, thought I'd start a thread on some basic shrimp maintenance/breeding advise and techniques I'm guided with.....

Water Parameters (WP) is critical, so depending on the shrimp type, do some research and ensure your tanks (WP) are within the recommended range. There are extreme cases (i.e. PH at 5 or 7.5 where CRS are successfully kept/bred, but on avg. these WP are theoretically a good starting point....

Caridina (CRS, CBS, SW/GB, TB*, Tiger**..)

PH - 6.4

KH - 0-2

GH - 4-6

TDS - 100-200

Temp - 21-23

*TB (KK, WR & BB) - Some breeders prefer a slightly lower PH (5.6 - 6.2) for Taiwan Bee

**Tigers - Some breeders prefer a slightly higher PH (7-7.4), KH - 2-8 and GH - 6-10 for Tigers

Neocaridina (All colour variants of Cherry Shrimp)

PH - 6.4

KH - 0-2

GH - 4-6

TDS - 100-200

Temp - 21-23

There's several thread on the forum with regards to soil type/recommendations, filters, chillers etc, so I'll just focus on the "day to day" maintenance and breeding habits I practice religiously...

* Weekly water change (WC) is beneficial to even the best filtered system. I only do a 5-10% weekly WC per week, just to "freshen" the water. Add minerals like salty shrimp, mineral powder etc... On each WC.

* The quality and consistency of Tap water varies. Reverse Osmosis (RO) water is recommended, to avoid any imbalances/pitfalls that can occur. Control what goes into your tank, to ensure minimal unexpected deaths.

* Ensure a varied diet of commercial and fresh food to your shrimps, including. Powdered food to feed your shrimplets.. I daily feed all my shrimp, and depending on stock levels and shrimplets, two feelings per days are done.

* Do water top ups caused by evaporation. I use straight RO water to top up all my tanks.

* filter maintenance is done every 6-8 weeks for all my nano tanks, and 8-12 weeks for my breeding racks. This ensure the filters/bacteria is running efficiently. Ensure the filters are only rinsed off with the tanks water...do not over clean, and or use tap water, as this will kill the beneficial bacteria.

* On a established system, ensure your nitrates are kept below 20ppm. Low nitrates do promote breeding !

Other notable mentions..

*Shrimp consume their exoskeleton that they shed during molting. This is a a rich source of essential minerals for the shrimp, so do leave them there for their consumption.

*Iodine supplement is not necessary as freshwater crustaceans obtain iodine from their food.

*Metals like zinc, lead, and elemental copper, are toxic for shrimps and will kill them.

*Majority of fish feed on shrimps. Although through clever aquascaping, a co-existance can prevail, But it really depends on the seriousness you take your shrimps/hobby, i.e selective breeding program's, exotic shrimps ...

*Hiding spots/shelters are important especially in periods of molting. Shelters can be bought or created via aquascaping.

*Avoid chemical, and short term solutions...i.e. PH Up/Down.....I personally don't use ferts, and anything chemical....

*During our summer periods, have a Plan B even if you are running chillers. Have some RO ice blocks in the fridge for emergencies..

*Observe your shrimps, and develop an eye to notice any changes in their behaviour. This may highlight some potential issues before it becomes real issues.

*Shrimps require oxygen rich waters. Ensure ample aeration, surface agitation etc...

*PATIENCE IS KEY

Mother Nature, whether purely natural or influenced by us do throw all of us a "curve ball"... So don't be discourage, get advise and share the grief with this forum, as your experience will help others....

No doubt, there's '000's of other advise, so please do add it onto this thread.......

Awesome BB, this is the perfect thread for both experienced fish keepers switching to shrimp, like me, & totally novices who have never kept anything, saw a CRS in a LFS & thought that could keep them. Nice work dude :encouragement:

As I have found through the loss of a quality red cherry colony last year, shrimp are oxygen lovers!!! lots of water circulation and aeration! Especially when hot weather is around!

Top write up BB!

You forgot a very important point...PATIENCE IS KEY!!! whether it be acclimatising, breeding, cycling tank, going on to higher grades (starting with the humble cherry first gaining experience), etc....

PS. @BB With the amount of write ups and effort you put into the forum why aren't you a Mod yet?

As I have found through the loss of a quality red cherry colony last year' date=' shrimp are oxygen lovers!!! lots of water circulation and aeration! Especially when hot weather is around![/quote']Thanks, great advise, have added to the list...Thanks, another great advise, have added to the list...Won't make the grade, power and authority creates an ugly BB/Marcus...thanks for the vote of confidence though.

Thanks again Bluebolts on another informative thread...Need to keep re-assuring myself that PATIENCE IS THE KEY in shrimp keeping/breeding which is hard at times...Want to hurry things up ( guess that's human nature)...

Currently I don't have RO water available @ home and wondering how much would it cost (on a budget)??? Also what are alternative ways to use tap water especially for those who don't have RO system installed @ home? (sorry might of been mentioned somewhere else in other topics) Cheers CJ

Hey Neo I don't have a Ro system either but for now I've found an aquarium not too far from me that sells it cheap and it's top notch water. You might be lucky and have a place nearby that does the same.

Thanks BB for all this info your supplying us with, looking forward to the day when I can try my hand at some of the more difficult shrimp and use this knowledge i've learnt from this forum.

Thanks for the tip Ziek...Never thought of going to LFS for RO water....CJ

Hey Neo I don't have a Ro system either but for now I've found an aquarium not too far from me that sells it cheap and it's top notch water. You might be lucky and have a place nearby that does the same.

There's been several horror stories with RO water from a 3rd source, whether LFS... etc. With the sensitivity of shrimps, be very vigilant and complete a WP test of any water from a 3rd source, before pouring into your tanks.

I have never used RO water but don't have sensitive shrimp... yet! Just cherrys.

i do how ever make sure i buy a water ager that neutralizes / detoxifys heavy metals. Is this safe, safe? or am I just fooling myself?

Cheers Roman

Hi Roman, I previously had many success with tap water, but it only takes one situation (i.e. break of water line-contaminating the water supply, high phosphates/or other additives, old copper pipes...etc..) My water supply has a TDS of 350-400, and although I had success with breeding CRS, the % of shrimplets survival wasn't great, PLUS there were many unexplained deaths, and impossble to figure out...with RO water, at least you can eliminate so many possibilities, and quickly narrow down the causes, and move forward towards the exotic shrimps etc..... It just makes us better hobbyist as we can actually determine causes of issues, do's and don't etc more accurately. But that's just me being a control freak. LOL

i figured as much. i just wanted to raise this point

The day I get a CRS is the week after I get an RO system.

Hi Bluebolts

I can't find the abbreviations for TDS in the library and I notice it is used here a lot. forgive my ignorance but what is it and should I be worried about this for RCS

Cheers

Ineke

Excellent write up, Marcus - I have two points to add:

*TB (KK, WR & BB) - Some breeders prefer a slightly lower PH (5.6 - 6.2) for Tigers

the last word should be Taiwan Bee (not Tigers)fresh boiled food (spinach, stinging nettle) will stimulate breeding even more than pellet food. This is also true for feeding brine shrimp and blood worms (=protein). However, one should be aware to not introduce planaria eggs with the food (that is why I prefer brine shrimp)temperature also stimulates breeding: adding a bit cold water can stimulate molts, while raising temperature ad light will stimulate the females to produce eggs. Most of our kept shrimp here in Europe stop breeding in winter from October to January.TDS is total dissolved solids, btw - everything that is i the water, no only ions.

"....one should be aware to not introduce planaria eggs with the food (that is why I prefer brine shrimp)

Thanks Imke, have amended my typo. Do planaria eggs commonly come via bloodworms ? Do European shrimp breeder then artificially create the environment during Oct-Jan to trick the shrimps to breed ? or do they just leave and accept it ?

Thanks Imke' date=' have amended my typo. Do planaria eggs commonly come via bloodworms ? Do European shrimp breeder then artificially create the environment during Oct-Jan to trick the shrimps to breed ? or do they just leave and accept it ?[/quote']

All bloodworms and frozen fishfoods must be Gamma radiated prior to being released for the suppliers to sell. Don't quote me but I think they go through the gamma radiation process 2 or 3 times.... There's not going to be any nasties left in the food after that.

All bloodworms and frozen fishfoods must be Gamma radiated prior to being released for the suppliers to sell. Don't quote me but I think they go through the gamma radiation process 2 or 3 times.... There's not going to be any nasties left in the food after that.

Thanks sajica.....maybe that's how Dean gets his green shrimps ? Gamma radiation ...mmmmm...

You don't want to get his shrimp angry, you won't like them when they get angry, lol

Great write up BB, you covered a lot of very good points :)

how did i miss this thread!

Gamma ray treatment??? now there's a new idea to try lol

Great write up BB' date=' you covered a lot of very good points :)

how did i miss this thread!

Gamma ray treatment??? now there's a new idea to try lol[/quote']

Is this before or after the shrimp rocket? ..... I'm just saying

Excellent write up BB.

Thanks Imke' date=' have amended my typo. Do planaria eggs commonly come via bloodworms ? Do European shrimp breeder then artificially create the environment during Oct-Jan to trick the shrimps to breed ? or do they just leave and accept it ?[/quote']

Well, the no reproduction phase is also reported from other seasons, and when you put shrimp into another tank. I have remarked it mostly in winter (Oct-Feb) and hot summers (July-August). Also, some older shrimp die off in this time, and not all shrimp species show this behavior simultaneously.

For the season break, air pressure, light, tank water temperature seem to be the main impacts.

Most breeders accept the pause, as it seems to be natural, and shrimp need time to recreate. With the bigger water changes with soft water, one can imitate the rain falls.

For the planaria eggs, the preparation of live food seem to differ in countries. I have read a lot that planaria came with frozen food, which comes from freshwater. So, I personally prefer brine shrimp which are bred in salty water.

With spring upon us, and the influx of new hobbyist/members on SKF, thought I'd resurrect this thread, as it has several important points of discussion we could share, and even remind us all of the basics of shrimp keeping, whether new or old shrimp keepers...

this is a good tread

Fantastic thread BB! Thank you very much. I've been looking for something like this for the past few weeks :happydance: