Clicky

Jump to content
ohaple

Welcome ohaple

Recommended Posts

ohaple

Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes ohaple.

Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

View Member

regards,
skfadmin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ohaple

Hi. I am new to shrimp, and actually own 0 at this point. I have a 7 gallon and a 1 gallon set up and cycling to get ready for shrimp later this month. We are hoping to start with two neocaridina varieties, one for each tank. They are both planted setups and currently have snails in both and a few zebra danios in the 7 gallon to assist with cycling. Once my account has access I hope to start a build log for them to show progress. To start though, here are two photos of the tanks. You can't tell in the photo (it is hiding under the monte carlo mat), but I made a custom sponge filter for the 1gallon with low-flow. It has really cleared up the water.

As a beginner question, I read online that neocaridina do best in water 68-78 degrees. My heater's thermostat is permanently at 78 (digital thermometer reads 78.3F). If I kept the tank without heat, it would fluctuate between about 68-72. We never allow the temperature in the room to drop below 68. Would it be better to have a steady 78 or a fluctuating 68-72?

4iWpJ2Ll.jpg

DUXm3mrl.jpg

Edited by ohaple

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
14 minutes ago, ohaple said:

Would it be better to have a steady 78 or a fluctuating 68-72?

Welcome to SKF Aquatics ... let's see about your question.

Firstly, your tank is still in the cycling phase, as you mentioned above. During this phase, a warm temp is required for the growth of the beneficial bacteria. You want this at 80-81 degF. Using Danios to assist in cycling a tank is not a good idea, because they prefer cooler temps (65 - 76 degF). You'll never get the tank warm enough for good BB growth -> Cycling will take much longer. It will still cycle, but it takes longer. Of course, that assumes there are BB present in the tank. If it is not added from another source, then cycling will take even longer. 

 

Second, assuming your tank has now been cycled, and you are not reading any Ammonia or Nitrites, you can reduce your temps for the shrimp to 71 - 75 degF (22-24degC).  So a fluctuating 68-72 is better than a steady 78 any day. Shrimps don't have a problem with the cold, it's the heat above 78F / 25C that they don't like.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ohaple

I appreciate the thoughtful reply. Regarding the danios and bacteria. I am keeping the tank at 78. Care guides for zebra danios range from about 74 to 78 degrees as the high end of temperature. They are widely recommended on other aquarium forums for cycling due to being hardy and having high metabolism. They will only be in the tank about 3 weeks. I began cycling with pre cycled media and then gave it an extra kick start with safestart +. To keep the animals happy in the meantime I have been doing daily changes and dosing Prime to detox the ammonia. The bacteria is doing fine and nitrite and nitrate have been increasing even though it's less than a week established.

Regarding the temperature question, thanks for the clear answer. We will take out the heat once cycled.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • richiep
      hi to all a friend of mine as had a load of shrimp die and didnt know why he sent me photoes and said these red spots appear and a few days later they are dead, all water perameters have been checkek and are fine.before they die they lie on their side an just move theis swimmers also the red patches go clear like an ulsar ive looked at these shrimp and believe it is rust spot but would like a second oppinion third or fourth, i thank you in advance Richie
    • beanbag
      No, because you would never be able to clean it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I don't think most people measure GH or KH in parts per million, I think your results would be KH 0-1 and GH 3-4. You don't need to remember the colour the drops should change too, as, as you say the colour in the test tube should match the original drops colour to get your reading. You may need to get some GH/KH+ for cherry/neocaridina shrimp, as your results are nearer caridina shrimp parameters. Cherry shrimp though are a lot tougher than bee shrimps so they may even survive in the parameters you have but not do as well? Anyway, if you are still cycling you can come back to that nearer the time that is done. The best shrimps to get are juveniles as you know you will have them longer (you can't tell how old an adult is) and they are better suited to adapting to new water parameters etc. You may find the below video interesting and useful as it covers virtually all you need to know at the start:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pO6iJPbmdk Simon
    • jayc
      HI Welcome to SKFA. Are your shrimps eating the crab cuisine at all? I don't blame them if they are not eating it. There are much better alternatives out there. Crabs will eat any junk, but shrimps are a lot pickier in their choice of food. Have a read of the numerous choices in the "Food & Nutrition" subforum. And remember, you don't have to limit yourself (and the shrimps) to processed foods. Look at leaves, flowers, vegetable off cuts or even frozen bloodworms.
    • jayc
      Why oh why do you disagree with me? 😄
×