Hi all. 

Currently I am in the process of setting up new shrimp tank, and I could use some advice about it.

Tank is Superfish home 25 (25lt), with red bee sand in it. As my tap water is horrible (tds around 220-240, ph 7.5, nitrate around 40-45) I used "natural mineral water" from asda which has following parameters: Tds 70 (120 once it's inside the tank),ph 5.5-6, nitrate around 10-15).

My plan is to introduce around 5 orange cherry shrimp for starting, and after a month to add red crystal.

And here comes the dilemma: In my other tank I am struggling with high nitrate level (due to usage of a tap water) and I'd rather avoid the same issue in a shrimp tank (that's why usage of mineral water). I can use sponge filter which I've been seeding for the last 2 weeks in another tank in order to keep ammonia and nitrite to 0 value + I was thinking about adding a sachem purigen to help with it as well. 

I am hesitant to begin cycling of aquarium by a traditional method for 2 main reasons:

1. given the initial number of shrimps, I doubt that their bioload will be able to sustain a cycled aquarium but I can be wrong about that. 
2. See first reason + nitrates about which I've spoken before. 

What are your thoughts about it? 

 

As important as cycling is, its just as valuable to have the tank established. To elaborate a bit an established tank has biofilm and algae growing and will also be cycled as part of the ageing process. 

Im not to familiar with red bee sand, others on the forum will be able to give you a better first hand account of how it cycled for them. I used ada amazonia in my rack so i had fuel for the cycle from its leachings.

Im sure if you start the "cycle" let the tank run for a couple of weeks to a month with just the plants, moss and what ever hard scape you go for. Then add the cherries to test the waters. Then in another month add the crs you should be fine. Well thats how i would do it. Hope it helps

So, for example keep a tank running without anything live (only with some plant in it) in order to get some algae growing, add couple of nerites and wait for another week. Then add seeded filter, cherries, tetra safestart if needed (helped me greatly for cycling my old tank). Something like that?

yeah, i just had a look back at my rack build, i let it mature for 2 weeks then dropped some testers in then 2 weeks later i slowly added the main stock. i also used glassgartens bacter ae ( highly recommend it to get the biofilm going!) to help get things going  

link to my rack build if you bored ;) 

Edited April 11, 201610 yr by buck

Do you plan on having plants in the new aquarium? How often do you water change your current system with the high nitrate value?

I know it is common for people to use livestock to start a cycle but you can also dose straight ammonia if you intend on determining if a tank is completely cycled? However, since you are using a seeded sponge filter I really don't think you should have any issues with getting the cycle started and running well.

I think Buck is on the right track, you should be more concerned about letting the tank mature, getting all the necessary microbial life in there to sustain baby shrimp and generally make the water much more hospitable for shrimp.

I would fill the new tank up with water, add the seeded filter, also won't hurt to add one or two media stones(not sure what else to call them i.e matrix), if you had moss in your main tank a nice handfull would help and finally if you werent intending on getting the cherries right away just throw in some fish food so it can break down in the tank and keep the cycle going.

20 hours ago, Alekc said:

I can use sponge filter which I've been seeding for the last 2 weeks in another tank in order to keep ammonia and nitrite to 0 value + I was thinking about adding a sachem purigen to help with it as well.

Shirakura Red bee sand doesn't take long to cycle, unlike ADA amazonia.

So definitely use that sponge filter you have been seeding in your other tank. It will help cycle this new tank much faster. Don't add purigen, until after the tank has been cycled. You can use purigen to reduce the nitrates after cycling.

Add your Tetra safestart also to the new tank, it should help a little.

I like to avoid using fish or shrimps to cycle a new tank. So try to check for ammonia or nitrites before adding them to the tank. 

Edited April 12, 201610 yr by jayc

10 hours ago, Santa said:

Do you plan on having plants in the new aquarium? How often do you water change your current system with the high nitrate value?

No a lot, I think I will go with java moss on driftwood. In other tank I do about 20% of water change every week, but due to high nitrates in tap water it's a lost game until I begin to mix tap water with some spring water or so (aquarium is 10G)

It doesnt really make sense to me for you to have nitrates in your tap water straight from tap?

It may have some ammonia reading due to what they use to treat the water which would be converted to extra nitrates due to your bacteria but correct me if I am wrong but nitrates in your tap water is a big nono for health reasons?

If the nitrates straight from your tap aernt as high, the only other way to limit nitrates is to limit feedings: less input=less output.

You could also put a nitrogen sink plant into the tank too such as duck weed but be warned, once it is in, it doesnt come out very easily.

Edited April 12, 201610 yr by Santa
Spelling*

50 minutes ago, Santa said:

nitrates in your tap water is a big nono for health reasons

You're right. 

@Alekc, if your tests for nitrate is really 40-45, then you should be complaining to the water supplier.

 

Quoting from gov website

Quote

Nitrate Levels in UK Tap Water

The current UK regulatory standard for Nitrate is 50 mg/l – (milligrams per litre)

Last ufficial measurement report indicated mean levels at 26, with max points up to 33.6. I guess that it there also can be a bit of variation in my measurements by Api test kit (drops), since it's a bit hard to pinpoint exact color variation (plus it's a spring, so there is a possibility of extra nitrates due to agriculture).

So it would not help contacting water supply I am afraid. 

 

2 hours ago, Alekc said:

So it would not help contacting water supply I am afraid.

Be civil about it.

Approach them and say "I have a concern about the nitrate levels in our tap water. Is 40, give or take, any cause for concern in your opinion?" Is there anything you (water company) can do to investigate?"

Then leave it in there court. If no one raised any concerns to them, they get the false impression that everything is ok.

Have you put any thought into adding the duckweed or cutting back feeding to once every two days?

2 hours ago, Santa said:

Have you put any thought into adding the duckweed or cutting back feeding to once every two days?

I am a bit hesitant about duckweed because of the structure of my aquarium. (it's a JBA). Basically half of the area just about/under the water level is plastic. Due to the currents a plant like duckweed will get sucked up underneath and will not hit the light at all (had the similar plant, and in the end got rid of it due to this same reason). 

Right now I am testing purigen which looks like is helping quiet a bit. Feeding should not affect that much because I am already giving non generous rations (+ it's a breeding tank for guppies and gotta feed those fries lol).

Although I will be considering duckweed a bit later on. 

Edited April 12, 201610 yr by Alekc