Jump to content

How to improve shrimplet surivival rate


Notshrimpboy

Recommended Posts

I have just joined SKF and looking for help from more experienced shrimp keepers. I have a 10G planted tank with lots of java ferns, mosses, annubias and water wisteria in Fluval plant/shrimp substrate. There is also a layer of duckweed on the water surface to remove nitrate. There is a sponge filter and a separate air stone for aeration. The water parameters are PH=7, KH=1, GH=4 and TDS=120. There are on average 10+ berried shrimps at any one time. But after 1.5 months, I can only find 3-4 babies surviving. The only other inhabitant of the tank are Assassin snails. Some of the berried shrimps lose the entire batch and I don't see any surviving babies. The shrimps are fed with ZooMed pellets and Shiakura powder. I only clean the glass on the front of the aquarium. And I do about a 10% water change every week with RO water and Seachem Equilibrium 

Please suggest what could be hurting the shrimplet survival rate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry. I thought I had covered everything in my post but left out some key information. My post refers to crystal shrimps; both CRS and CBS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello @Notshrimpboy

First of all welcome to SKF.

Now your WP look fine except for the ph, It is a little high for CRS & CBS but this alone should not cause your a low survival rate.

Have you checked for ammonia, nitrites and nitrate recently? What is the temperature of your tank?

How big is the colony? could the adults be out competing the shrimplets for food? What do you usually feed and how often?

Not many answer but hopefully we can find one for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assasian snails will eat shrimp but wont be solely responsible for the losses you have described. 

Do you target feed your newly hatched shrimplets?

Do you conduct large wate changes when new shrimplets are present?

During water changes, do you drip new water into the tank or pour it in (i.e. Are there likely to be substantial changes in water parameters during water changes?)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for everyone's queries and inputs. Please keep them coming.

I feed ZooMed pellets to the adults of about 1-2 pellets per day. I usually drop some Shiakura baby powder on the surface of the water that opens up to about a 2-3 inch (diameter) circle (5-7mm). The powder drops to the water column and on to the various plants and substrate. Therefore, I have not been target feeding the babies. I have not checked for nitrate, nitrite and ammonia but will do so later today. Since I use an aged sponge filter and have an abundance of immersed as well as emmersed plants, I had assumed that these parameters are not critical in my situation. I will double check now.

The colony is about 25-30 CRS/CBS. They are mostly adults. There are usually about 9-10 berried shrimps in the tank at any one time. I have also assumed, may be incorrectly, that just because conditions are fine for the adults to carry berries, they may not be good enough for the babies to survive.

When I change water (usually not more than 10%), I pre-mix the new water (RO) separately with Seachem Equilibrium and then drip them slowly into the sponge filter uplift tube. The new water is within 2-3 deg C of the tank water. The pH and TDS should be practically the same as the tank water.

Thanks for your help.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎20‎/‎01‎/‎2016 at 5:55 AM, Notshrimpboy said:

Thank you for everyone's queries and inputs. Please keep them coming.

I feed ZooMed pellets to the adults of about 1-2 pellets per day. I usually drop some Shiakura baby powder on the surface of the water that opens up to about a 2-3 inch (diameter) circle (5-7mm). The powder drops to the water column and on to the various plants and substrate. Therefore, I have not been target feeding the babies. I have not checked for nitrate, nitrite and ammonia but will do so later today. Since I use an aged sponge filter and have an abundance of immersed as well as emmersed plants, I had assumed that these parameters are not critical in my situation. I will double check now.

The colony is about 25-30 CRS/CBS. They are mostly adults. There are usually about 9-10 berried shrimps in the tank at any one time. I have also assumed, may be incorrectly, that just because conditions are fine for the adults to carry berries, they may not be good enough for the babies to survive.

When I change water (usually not more than 10%), I pre-mix the new water (RO) separately with Seachem Equilibrium and then drip them slowly into the sponge filter uplift tube. The new water is within 2-3 deg C of the tank water. The pH and TDS should be practically the same as the tank water.

Thanks for your help.

Your water parameters all look fine, so I believe we can rule out wp issues. Only your Ph seems a little high.

Have you had a chance to check ammonia, nitrites and nitrates? any chance you can put a pic up of the tank. It might help us spot something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After reading all the info presented ... my immediate suspicion jumped to Nitrates as a possible cause.

Assuming you have a matured filter and Ammonia and Nitrites are zero, since the adults are ok.

Since you have not checked it, I would check Nitrates asap.

 

 

Edited by jayc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And if Nitrates are high for Notshrimpboy, I'm sure Larrymull remembers what we did to reverse it ! :5565bf0371061_D:

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would consider soil or substrate for being toxic , when I first set up my first shrimp,tank Taiwan bees and f1s I was given bad advice to put bacter AE under the soil , I ended up with almost 20'females constantly berried but never saw a single baby , this went on for 4 months , I set up,a new tank moved over aprox 60 adults including berried females and within days had my first babies and survival was very high.

 My prl tank has been running for 18 months on red bee soil, but in the last 4 to 5 months survival of babies has really declined so couple of weeks ago I set up another and moved them over with new glasgarten soil , 5 days ago I had my first babies and tonight there foraging all over including the substrate and doing great .

I think with time our substrates level of bad bacteria build up, I am now using beemax to assist with healthy bacteria to try and break down waste etc , and in future if no breeding I will use a nano substrate cleaner 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Everyone,

Thank you very much for your inputs. They are very valuable.

I had the water tested for Nitrate/Nitrite/Ammonia and they are all fine. They registered at the lowest level  on the test strip. The Fluval substrate in the tank is only about 3 months old. I started with new substrate in a new tank last September using aged sponge filter. It was left cycling for a month before I put CRS/CBS shrimps in it. They have been in there for 2+ months.

I am getting the sense that my setup may be just fine. Perhaps it was something that I did such as not rinsing my hands before I stuck them in the tank one time or changing water too drastically. I may just need to do less cleaning for the next several weeks to see if more shrimplets survive.

Thanks to everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...