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I finally bought some new yellows for my picky females who won't breed with the males I have. Of course I also had to buy some fires for my females too, and a couple of blues + pumpkins since they had some. ? It seems I always get so many more females than males, so I had to even out the numbers more. One of the fires I bought had that light line down its back, meaning it was just about to moult. I was hoping acclimating & moving to a new tank would trigger the water parameter change it needed, but apparently I was wrong and it died overnight. Sucks. This made me wonder if there isn't a way to treat a shrimp who has a failed moult happen and triage to save it? With birds who are egg bound you give them liquid calcium to immediately fix the issue & save their life. Is a failed moult a calcium deficiency? Or maybe all nutrient deficiency? So potentially triaging them with nutrient-rich water would stop the problem? Maybe putting them in a quarantine tank and add a drip line with blackwater.. I may be totally off but there should be some last-minute fix for once you notice the signs (the light-colored line, hiding for a molt, struggling/wriggling but no moult detaching). It never happens in my tank, but whenever I purchase new shrimp there's a chance one or more will be right in the middle of their moult. I am always buying new shrimp these days so I want to have some way to stop it.

Failed moults are usually associated to Calcium content in the water. That is, your GH reading. Too much GH and the shells (and eggs) become too hard and moulting becomes difficult. The shrimp looses too much energy trying to moult. Too little and their shells don't develop properly causing deformities (maybe GH under 2). This is a long term affect, that is, if you see it, it's already too late and nothing you can do to help a shrimp that is having issues right now.

Phew, glad it has ended well for you and the rasboras.

I was quietly hoping you would write a guide. Well done, with the guide. The shopping list makes it very easy looking for parts.

I am incredibly lucky!!!! ?‍♀️?? In more ways than one apparently. After 2 treatments of 72 hours (6 days total), all of the spots were gone! So I put them back in the main tank. Without any other cycled water, I would have had to use tank water from my main tank to quarantine them anyway. I was originally thinking they needed 30 days away from my main tank for the ich to go through its full life cycle judging by some forum comments I was reading by experienced aquarists. IT WORKED! It's been about a week and there's no new spots. They're fat, happy and getting a darker red color every day. I think I have a pregnant female, and a single male. So he has a harem. PHEW!! ?? *knocks on wood*