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  1. beanbag

    beanbag

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    jayc

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    wayne6442

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    Jerme

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/29/20 in Posts

  1. Jerme
    I use RODI water. Tds=0. Collect to a 220 liter container. Container has an airpump to keep the water moving and aerated. Take some water to a 50 liter container and remineralize with salty shrimp bee gh+ or salty shrimp gh/kh+ depending if I do water change for caridina or neocaridina. Values for water change: Caridina tds 120ppm Neocaridina tds 180ppm Water temp around 22 I do weekly 25% water changes. I measured values for ph, no2, no3, nh4 in the three taiwan bee problem tanks. Calibrated ph meter and for the rest jbl liquid test kit. PH in caridina tanks between 5,9 and 6,6 depending on the age and active soil used. (Akadama, red bee, tropica soil, shrimp king). PH in neocaridina 7,7-7,9. NO2 and NH4 in all measured cases 0. NO3 between 0 and 1. I use small amount of ferts mixed from dry salts that is the reason NO3 might be 1. I use dry fert mixes for my planted tanks and I have created very mild versions for shrimp tanks. I can provide details if needed. One thing I forgot to mention is that I have had odd deads in orange sakura tank for more than a month. In the beginning I lost 1-2 a day. Now I have been able to improve the situation to maybe one casualty every second day. They breed and has shrimp from all ages. When they die they dont have the same symptoms as the taiwan bees. Actually they have nothing visible. The reason I mention this is that the tank had in the beginning fish that have been in the same tank with wild fish. I suspect that maybe the fish carried some bacteria that transferred to orange sakura and from there further. Maybe Neos are more tolerant to the bacteria than taiwan bees.. Im soon gonna go to garage and see how situation has evolved.
  2. wayne6442
    Hi mate Yes I am into Endler's Now I breed French Blue Star, Lime Green and have just got some El Tigre, I also have a hybrid line called Ginga Rubrua lovely fish much easier to keep than shrimp
  3. beanbag
    The one you want to avoid is "baking powder" which has the extra acid in it.
  4. Mirri
    New to shrimp keeping and trying my best! I think water parameters are OK, have live plants, filter, light on a timer, heater and RO water with weekly water changes and testing. Fed 2x a week 1 ball per shrimp of 'shrimp enhancer ' supplement (calcium and magnesium in etc) but 2 shrimpies have an issue... sort of discoloured/opaque orangey bit on their backs. Can't find anything similar in pics so hoping for diagnosis and way to fix please!! ps. Apologies for crap picture, phone won't focus!
  5. sdlTBfanUK
    welcome fellow UK shrimp keeper. I can't see anything that would worry me at this point? If they are red cherry then they come in many grades and some have a stripe down the back. How long have you had them and are you sure they didn't come like that when you got them (they rarely all look the same)? Are they acting normally otherwise? Do you use RO water and add GH/KH+ shrimp product? I see you have an inert gravel substrate! What are the water parameters? How much water do you change each week? Simon
  6. jayc
    Yes, feed them a little. Furanol is for internal and external bacterial infections. Dilute the furanol in some tank water and drip it onto the food pellets. Then feed it to the shrimp.
  7. jayc
    You seem to have all the right water parameters. Where are you located?
  8. jayc
    Hi @Jerme, please list a your water parameters in full. Make sure you only use one medication at a time in the tank. I would also continue dosing H2O2 at each water change weekly.
  9. beanbag
  10. Jerme
    Located in Finland. Good news is that there are no visible deaths today in CBS. Some are actually moving quite active. Should I feed them during the medication? Bad news is that I found first victim in the galaxy tank, arghh! Attached picture. I dosed them JBL furanol plus. I do really hope this med helps.

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