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There are so many good foods you can feed shrimp. Read the posts Simon link and you will get some great ideas.

With so few shrimp you my not ned any food as there should be enough biofilm for them. Always food sparingly as too much can cause BIG problems but what you are doing now should be ok. Have a look here for ideas, but be careful not to overfeed, and any fruit/veg MUST be ORGANIC! https://skfaquatics.com/forum/forums/forum/44-food-nutrition/ Simon

okay thank you, I will get more test, oh I take the shrimp already, it's been hours.

I’m thinking maybe oebt. What are my options with caridina shrimp in these parameters? The measurements are in ppm

To vary my juvenile FRCS diet I give them a (single) tropical fish flake every other day, in addition to their main Hikari shrimp cuisine diet. They seem to like the flakes, but I was wondering what else I can do to vary their diet. I have only just started giving them one or two of the Hikari pellets a day since I am not sure how many to give them – there are four shrimp in total. Pic is from when I first got them, they are now about three times that size.

Thanks Jayc and sdlTBfanUK - I'll check those sources out. They are certainly chowing down on the biofilm too.

I understand, it's RO water system for drinking water that I bought

Yes. But you don't have to refill the tank full. It's not going to remove all the bacteria. But it will help the shrimp a bit. We need to knock the chitinolytic bacteria for 6 after a water change. Even a plastic bucket with an air stone is enough for a hospital tank. Just don't use one that has had chemicals in it for cleaning your house. I hear ya. If you can get to Bunnings, pick up a small bag of Potassium sulphate (potash). That will help raise pH and keep it there. Only a little potassium is needed. Any brand, just make sure it's not in capsule/tablet/pill form. You want the oil. And make sure it's not the essential oil stuff, which have additives. You want the pure carvacrol oil 80% or above. Re-Read the Disease and Diagnostics post carefully. Details are all there. Oergano oil is powerful stuff, a very effective antibacterial. Too much will harm the shrimps. Oregano Oil (Carvacrol 83%) diluted in distilled / tankwater at roughly one drop of Oregano oil to 90 drops of water. Add this to food for the shrimp. https://solutions4health.com.au/product/50ml-bottle-oil-of-wild-oregano-black-seed-oil/

Those parameters look fine for tiger shrimps and you may be able to keep other Taiwan bee shrimp though you are at their upper limit for Gh, PH and KH. Even with the tigers though it would be a good idea to try and lower the PH just a bit by adding Indian Almond leaves! Tiger shrimp ar easier and tougher so your safest bet would be to get those. Do you know the TDS? Are you planning to put these with cherry (neocarinina) shrimps as per your other post? That should work fine with those parameters. Simon

It could be either the TDS or lack of sufficient cycle. We can't really know for sure which it is until you have some more tests. Sorry to hear that though. Could you attach a photo of the 'shell' on the shrimp?

I don't want to jump to conclusions without additional evidence. But the photo seems to show traits of bacteria attacking the carapace (shell) of the shrimp. Like Chitinolytic bacterial disease (Rust disease). I'm not saying it 100% is Chitinolytic bacterial disease. Just keep an eye on the surviving shrimps. Check for any that might have these darkening spots on the exterior. You can read more about it here on our forum ... Avoid transfer of water or decorations between tanks. Don't share nets or tools between tanks. Just in case. It can be harder to spot on dark coloured shrimp, a torchlight can help spot discolourations. If you see any that have it, I suggest an immediate tank rebuild with new substrate. Move any shrimps into a temporary container/tank while rebuilding the main tank. This all assumes it is Chitinolytic bacterial disease, but like I said, i don't want to jump to that conclusion yet, not until you find more shrimps with the same dark spots on their shell. Full tank rebuild is the first step. If it continues after a full rebuild, then you might have to go to using one of the remedies in the Disease and Diagnostics thread posted above. Possible causes of Chitinolytic bacterial disease? It's unproven ... yet. I don't have the tools to determine how the shrimps get this bacterial infection. And I am not going to subject my shrimps to an experiment even if I have unproven theories. However, my unproven theories revolve around : the use of bacteria in a bottle products. They are not all the right Nitrobacter or Nitrosomonas bacteria in those bottles. pH too low. That's why I asked what kit you use. Sera pH test kit goes down as low as 4.5. But some kits don't go that low, and the real pH reading could be a lot lower than the minimum reading the kit is capable of. Even your 5.5 pH could be too low. It would not hurt the shrimp if you move your pH to 6.0. That might be something to try. Temps too hot. You have 2 out of the 3 points. Your temps seem to be okay at 23degC. So maybe lay off the bacteria products, and raise pH a little, and water changes! Don't be slack with water changes.

Hi guys, I took those photos 36 hours ago and I've only been able to step foot in my shrimp room about 30 minutes ago because I just couldn't face it. There are more dead ? OK, I've got my big girl pants on now and ready for the battle. I just hope I can turn this around before the remaining 16 succumb too. You reckon 80 - 90% Jayc? Is that going to remove enough of the bacteria? If I had a hospital tank I reckon I'd be moving them over to be able to re-build their current tank, but unfortunately I don't have that option available. OK, this is where it gets tricky. I'm using water from our water tanks that is mostly rain water with a bit of bore water added in. The minerals in the bore fluctuate so I run the water through the RO filter before using it, then remineralise. That way I'm getting consistent water from a source that can be wildly different week to week. Once remineralised it always has a pH of 5.5. I've tried lifting it with bicarb in the past but without success. How I've done it is to set up a bucket of remin RO water then added the bicarb until I reached a pH of 6, but overnight the pH has dropped back to 5.5 again. I even went out and bought fresh bicarb but same thing. I will just point out here that the water never made it into the tank as I couldn't see the point of putting in water that was the same pH as what I started with. Would it make any difference if I put it in the tank anyway, or maybe I should start dripping the water in immediately and not have left it overnight?? What am I doing wrong? Please, just tell me how to do it. Any particular brand? How much will I need? How much and how frequently do I apply it? Thanks in advance.

Oh no. That is chitinolytic disease. Read up on it in the link. Start a water change. Raise pH to 6.0. Go to your local health food shop, and look for Oregano oil.

thanks for answer, yes I realize that now 2 weeks is a little time, not with ammonia or beneficial bacteria, btw one shrimp died today and it's was a piece of shell on shrimp, I think die while molting right? why it's can be happened? because of I didn't cycle my tank enaogh? or my tds is stable 280 - 300ppm, I know it's high but it's that high to cause of shrimp deats? it was a mistake only 2 weeks cycle but I'm doing my best now, only problem now is TDS value. and I will get more test.