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Get one you can afford. From my many years of experience, even the most expensive, well known brands can have a heater that gets stuck on. After many failed heaters, I never trust any heater now. Instead I use an Inkbird ITC-308 temp controller with any heater. It has a separate temp probe that will turn on /off the heater. Even if the heater is stuck on, this unit will cut power to it at the max temp setting. No more cooked shrimps. Just google for it. It's sold on Amazon and Ebay.

Hey dreamblue, I think it’s stag horn algae. Found this site, check it out. https://fishlab.com/staghorn-algae/ It uses flourish excel as the treatment method. I use that in my tanks too (actually trying to remove bba) and it’s a good product. I would also reccomend reducing your lighting times. If you normally have background light to a certain extent, maybe try dropping to 10 hours a day.

If you are using a small diameter airline to get the water from the bucket into the tank you can probably just let it run straight through as you are using such a big tank, if it looks too fast some people tie a knot in the line so it drips but usually they are much smaller quantities of water in much small tanks. Great photos! The ratio of around 3:1 would seem to be a good ratio as obviously the males role is brief and he can go on to the next one. You don't need to get too many females though as they have 30 babies a month each so within a few months you will be amazed, and the babies will also have babies after 3 months as well? In fact I wouldn't even think of getting any more at this point, let it run for a couple of months and concentrate on doing the gradual water adjustment? Simon

We can get Typus and Riffles here. Where, I dunno, just gotta keep an eye open for them. What?! no, I've never heard of them eating other fry or shrimp.

Yeah, it's a bit of an unfortunate risk. I really like having the two cohabitating, as they are quite different and bring different aspects of the hobby together. I keep thinking 'well, they live together in the wild, why shouldn't it work in my tank??', but I know that there's much more than that to it. Ah, didn't realise there was a size difference. Maybe I'll take them out of my test and try the Darwin red nose. That's why I bought the crushed coral sand as well. To bring params up in my 5 gal for the natives I wanted to keep in it. I could put a little into the 29 I guess. I think I'll do darwin red nose in the 5 anyway so I could just pop a couple in the 29 and monitor them. Yeah okay, I'll try them I think. I didn't think we could get those here in Australia...? If we could then I would. Also not so sure about a filter feeder like riffles or bamboo as they can eat fry? Well I already have the two male tts in the tank so they are used to there being prey in the tank, but not in larger quantities. Technically yeah I already have all my fish in one tank, but I'd really really like to move my pseudomugil luminatus (neon red blue eye rainbow) across to the 5, as the female looks like an embellished female endler and the male looks a bit like one of my ember tetras, so I would like them alone if I can. They also have suuuuuper tiny mouths, can barely even eat a small mozzie larvae, and that's when the prey is presented as food and barely moves. In terms of all shrimp in the 5 gal and none in the 29, I mentioned that earlier in this post. Yeah that's the thing I'm hoping to avoid, losing them all. It's a little better if the shrimp are reproducing and very slowly increasing with a few being picked off, but I guess that's what I'm going to have to deal with as a possibility if it isn't totally perfect. Which it won't be. I think I'll just try a few, and hope it's okay. If it doesn't work this time then I'll just not do shrimp in there. Thanks a heap jayc!

That should be ok. It only has heating function, but that is all you need. The inkbird temp controller is an added safety net. I don't even buy expensive heaters anymore with this temp controller. Any cheap ebay unit is now fine, as I am confident that between the heater's built in controller and the inkbird, the heater will not overheat the tank.

TDS 24 means that the manufacturer's system is in need of a filter change. It's very common that bought RO water is not TDS 0. So keep that in mind when remineralising. pH6 is normal for RO water. No need to worry there. Isn't it so much easier with a TDS pen? Survival rates are always better when you have the right tools to match water parameters. Good luck, hope you get lots of shrimplets.

That is some amazing water you have out of the tap! I have to ask, why bother with plant or shrimp specific substrate if your tap water is SO good? Have you not thought of just using cheaper aquarium gravels? Planted substrate and shrimp substrates are meant for people with parameters much higher than your tap water. It will then work to reduce pH, KH and GH to a more suitable level for bee shrimps. But when you start with such low pH, GH, KH water, the substrate will still work to lower it even further. It's not like the substrate is smart enough to go ... " Oh the pH is already at 6.7, so I'll stop releasing tannins now". The cycling is going to slow to a crawl or even stall with such low pH. If you keep the shirakura red bee sand, you will face a continued battle of keeping the water parameters from dropping too low. Better to bite the bullet now and replace the substrate, while you are still able to with no livestock. Water parameter stability is better in this situation. You will have more time enjoying your hobby than constantly measuring and testing water only to find that you need another water change to raise the pH & KH. Everyone will be envious of your tap water, all you need to do is straight water changes without fiddling with it.

You could certainly try shrimps with fish in one tank, although it is a risk. That is a risk you will need to weigh up as it can be an expensive meal for the fish. Cherries are much smaller, so they face a greater risk against an apisto. Our local natives Darwin red nose is a bit bigger than cherries, and they are more camouflaged, so that can be an option. But our natives prefer more neutral pH waters. Like Tiger type of parameters. DAE is fun to have, but they don't breed in freshwater. So the fun only lasts so long. Crystal shrimps are also slightly bigger than cherries, and might fair better with an apisto. The larger shrimps like Typus, Amano and the filter feeders like Bamboo shrimp are probably the only ones that will hold their own against an apisto. Your test of 5 each is probably a good idea. Start out small, and see how your fish react to possible prey around. Can you move ALL your fish into one tank and free up one just for shrimp? Remember, even if a shrimp can't fit into a fishes mouth, the fish can still pick at it's legs and extremities until the shrimp dies. it will still try to hunt the shrimps. I've had killie fish eat up all my black cherries in one tank, eventhough the killies grew up as fry with the shrimp. They just turned one day and decimated all my black shrimp. that's the issue with not having enough tanks for a species only tank. One killie even died with a shrimp stuck in it's mouth choked to death. Double whammie - both fish and shrimp dying. I like the analogy of Lions eating a wildebeest - the lions don't swallow it whole, they take chunks out of their prey.

It all sounds like it is going well @DreamBlueVelvet Test the TDS of your RO water so you know what TDS it is. Always goo to know the parameters of your source of water.

It might not skyrocket up in a short timeframe, but it will continue to buffer your water towards alkaline. Whenever the water drops in pH (acid), it is this acid that dissolves the coral slightly releasing calcium which raises the GH, KH and pH. Slight chemistry lesson. ?

I would only use a 25 watt, I use one on my 5 and I think Blazepelt uses one on his 10, and it keeps both of our tanks very stable. I like the aqua zonic aquarium heater, just for it’s small size, and it works great. I use an aqua one 100w heater on my 29 gal community, but I mainly use over powered stuff on that tank anyway! Aqua one is probably the better brand of the two. I think just 25w per 10 gal is okay.

+1 for staghorn algae as well.

Okay, thanks. I looked that one up but wasn’t sure if that was the right kind of algae. I will cut off infected plants and lower light to 8 hours a day and see if it does anything. The plants on the back of the tank are the ones that are infected and they face the window. I’ll keep those blinds close as well and see what happens.

NOW THATS A MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION and I would love someone to tell me IF ANYONE REALLY KNOWS????? After years and years of reading the best I came up with was: 1) It doesn't cycle but obviously doesn't need too because the PH is so low (and stays so low) that ammonia isn't an issue, and it works somehow but don't ask how it works, it just does (thats not my words but a summery of what I read)! I have assumed this is the case, thus far, especially as raising the Ph caused such a disaster to mine and my previous attempt, leaving the Ph alone (5 - 5.5) was such an unbelievable success (see pics in gallery for proof if interested) and as you say People keep them in this low PH and IT WORKS? 2) It cycles so slowly that it doesn't affect the shrimps and there is no Ammonia at such low Ph but there is Ammonium instead which is harmless to shrimps anyway (less toxic)? This sort of ties in with JayC remark that the cycle slows the lower the Ph and stops eventually. 3) If it is Ammonium rather than Ammonia, different bacteria convert to Nitrates (possibly not even going through the nitrite stage) so you won't see the cycle with the usual test kit Ammonia/nitrite but may get some nitrates? To be honest I don't think anyone really knows (I can't say I have been convinced by any thing I have read over the years so have picked number 1 as it came up most often), but hopefully I am wrong and you (we) will get a definitive answer to this old question. here at last............ my search would finally be over. Thanks for bringing up this question, I 100% understand where you are coming from, but had really given up ever finding a definitive answer as there are so many people with different ideas about this I have found? I fear though that the answer may be as easy to find as finding ice on the sun??????? Simon

May be off topic though but... how do people go about having a nonexistent nitrogen cycle in very low ph levels in their bee tanks? 5-5.5? Im just curious as i see people do keep bee shrimps in that ph range. Here to learn at the end of the day

For the new tank i think the plan is inert substrate only and moss on some mesh. Very simple. But making hiding places. See how that goes. No root feeder plants or anything.

Unfortunately they are not roots they have a blue green color, I’ve trimmed some infected plants but it just spreads

Is that only on one plant and if it is maybe (this is a bit way out there but bare with my insanity) it could be roots. With my Java fern new plants grow on the edges of the leaves like that with roots and small leaves before they separate/break off? If you know what the plant is then you could look it up and see if that is what is happening, or it could just be my lack of sleep over the last 2 nights with our strong wind/storm??????? They look more like roots to me though! Simon

When you do a water change with shrimp it is best to add the new water gradually, most people drip the new water in to the tank. I wouldn't use ANY ferts but there are many posts on here about that subject, negative almost always, if you want to read them! Why not try that NON buffering soil that makes more sense I think? Any trace elements of anything the shrimp need will be in the mineralisers. Obviously the poo of the shrimps adds some plant food etc. You have to feel confident with what you are doing so if you don't feel that with the red bee sand it is best to change that, and at least you are at an early stage with no inhabitants, so little is lost bar some money? The parameters look pretty close to each other and if you add the new water slow enough (which is advisable anyway) and don't do too large quantities once you get the shrimps in situ I think you would be ok still as you are at the moment but as I say, you have to feel confidence. If the new water is Ph 6.7 and the tank water is PH 6, changing 10%, that will only increase the PH of the tank by .07 and by dripping the water in, the soil will probably eliminate (buffer) that difference entirely anyway? Simon

Okay thanks, and do you know what kind of algae this is? I leave my light on for maybe 12 hours a day on average I also open the blinds and have indirect sunlight

About ferts for plants - i think they should be fine even if they contain trace amounts of copper? Not sure if i will get beheaded for this but I think the ferts contain far less than lethal amounts, and even shrimp need it in trace amounts to be able to breathe & stay alive? Just like for us humans and any other living being. The buildup is problematic but if your plants etc utilise all these trace elements there isnt much to worry about?

Those look like water louse (though ours are browner in colour) and I had them when I used to take leaves out of the lake and put them in the tank - stopped doing that immediately. They were probably attached to something you foraged? They did no harm and apparently are a sign of good water, but they look horrible and creepy (to me) and they breed prolifically so I would remove them as/when you see them! They are fairly easy to catch. I don't know how they breed though (whether they lay eggs), only that they are accomplished at it so it is best to remove them ASAP if you aren't wanting them??? I am sure they are harmless though and some may even think they do the same job as shrimps (some people keep them in aquariums as clean up crew instead of shrimps here), but if you have shrimps why have those? Simon

Are these bugs okay? Should I take them out? Would they endanger the shrimplettes? I believe they came with the topsoil or maybe hitchhikers from the native plants

Use Indian Almond Leaves Surviving lol Only a short visit to reply to my tag

Great project! Our native shrimp are so underestimated. Well lets list out your options... 1) Darwin red nose - it's mostly clear but that red nose ! Fairly large compared to the next two. 2) Chameleon shrimp- similar to Caridina serratirostris and can change colours. Colour range from black to brown, reddish-orange, to light blues and greens. Also comes with racing stripes sometimes. The blues and Greens might be stress related, so less commonly seen. 3) Blackmore river shrimps - these are mostly clear with some rusty coloured spots. 4) Darwin Algae Shrimp - aka DAS, similarly sized to the red nose. But by far the hardest to breed as the newly hatched shrimplets are tiny and needs planktons found only in brackish waters. 5) Zebra - lovely little shrimp with it's black and white stripes. But seem be be another difficult to keep shrimp. Also very small at 2cm. They might be hard to source. You can always catch them in the wild but it means braving going into waters that crocs also inhabit. Zebra, from all accounts need very low TDS water. pH doesn't seem to matter so much. But TDS of 20-30 is key. However, it's easier said than done keeping TDS that low. An increase in TDS from 20-25 is a massive 20% change! You most likely need to set up an auto water change in this zebra tank that replaces it with rain water constantly. 6) Typus - this is a large shrimp. Rarely seen in the trade now. These are probably the hardiest, if you can find any. 7) Riffles - I know you said unlikely to keep these. Just listing them for completeness. Pair them up with any of our native snails and you will have a great biotope. Don't forget lots of leaf litter using our native tree leaves that have dried naturally. Out of the 7 I'd start with Red nose and Chameleons. They can go in the same tank and they take the same water parameters. I wouldn't mix Blackmores, DAS or Chameleons in the same tank however, as you WILL loose track of which is which. Far out! @NoGi !! How the bloody hell are you mate ?!

Hey mate, sorry I've not kept anything for some time. Been too busy farting around with crypto and forex ? Back in the day, things may have changed, zebra were extremely difficult to breed. A couple of guys had limited success, maybe a generation or two only. Typus was hit and miss, i think those with ponds had better luck. Riffles would probably be the easiest from your list. Maybe one of the guys here that are more active could assist you.

Ah okay, thanks. I've heard in some youtube videos that bamboo shrimp and blue wood shrimp can sometimes catch fry in their little fans, and eat them, but I guess that's probably a very uncommon occurance. In terms of shrimp, you may have seen my recent post about breeding some - I think that's probably what I'll go with in this tank if I can successfully breed them and increase the hardness and pH in the tank. I might try out some crystals in the meantime... but probably not.

Hi Jayc, Thanks for the info. Basically i got some low grade CBS recently and they are in a small tank with just plant substrate and inert gravel, they seem to do well as my female got berried on day 2. Almost a month now and i didnt lose any. But at the same time i just became infatuated with the thought of keeping bee shrimps, so i thought ill set up a bigger 60l tank for higher grades, something like nice blue bolts or shadow mosura. I did a ton of research and was just finding little to no info about active substrate used in soft water. I thought well if people use it with RO then i may just take my tap as "RO". But the main point is that everywhere i looked it seemed to be kind of a travesty not keeping them on active soil. So i almost felt bad and thought id do it "properly" this time. Like you said i just want stable suitable parameters really, so im not going to stick to the red bee sand I dont think. Expensive lesson learned I guess

Would this one be ok ? Thank you [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, I will definitely check out the heaters and the inkbird. I rather invest in a heater and temp controller than kill any shrimp or fish. I do have a Cobalt heater in my Rainbow tank and it seems to work well. I’m not sure if they have a 25 watt. Honestly I still feel nervous about using a heater in a shrimp tank. I’m going to think about it.. Thank you all for your help & suggestions, much appreciated [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I checked it a few days ago, only checked TDS and PH TDS 24 PH 6, the lowest color on my API test kit(maybe I can check this one again because I thought it should be 7) And the shrimps I have received from seller the PH was 6.6 TDS 195, luckily my TDS was spot on in the tank. It’s been 5 days and all 7 have survived, I acclimated them for 2 hours

Actually it was this one, they look the same lol

Another successful molt today ? I saw a male and a female there earlier today, but she is not berried. Not sure if the male molted or if the female is still forming her eggs. Today was the first day that I saw shrimp swimming around my tank, so maybe the female did molt but is still premature Thank you ? Picture of the female I saw earlier where the molt occurred

That looks really nice!

New setup, now just waiting on my GH+/KH+

Oh sorry that’s my bad, I didn’t understand what you meant by that. If you have a spare airline tube, maybe just drip from a bucket into the tank for that. If you want to do it slowly. Maybe try to space it out over half an hour to an hour, and do some other stuff while it’s filling up.

Oh I meant when I’m putting new water in with low KH how slowly would I introduce that water so I do not shock/hurt the shrimp using the acclimation method for water changes

You would probably want an even mix of males to females, preferably more females though. Don’t need an exact ratio. In terms of GPH I usually try to do at least 4-5 times of the tank per hour, but you don’t have to do it that way with shrimp. Maybe 2, 3 times the tank’s size? More if you can but as it’s with shrimp only it really isn’t necessary. What type of filter are you looking at?

What would be a good GPH flow rate? Also I just bought an extra 10 gallon tank today that will be a glass bottom when I cull the light colored shrimp. What is a good ratio of females to males for the main tank if I want maximum breeding? Thanks

Hello again, I forgot to ask what brand heater would you suggest? 50 watts for 10 gallon? I am concerned about a heater getting stuck and killing the shrimp. My house temp is at 65 degrees Fahrenheit. I am using distilled water with salty shrimp so I am hoping I can be successful keeping shrimp this time around. It’s so upsetting when they die. Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions. I appreciate it very much! [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome fellow UK shrimp keeper! Hope you aren't getting too battered by storm Ciara, I have the curtains closed abd they are swaying like crazy down here! I haven't used that particular substrate but my previous success with Bee shrimp is they thrived at Ph 5- 5.5 so I wouldn't worry too much about that. My latest lot were doing fine at Ph 5-5.5 and I made a terrible mistake by adding rock to increase the Ph (chasing perfect figures), which it did but it wiped out the shrimps (I assume as it triggered a new cycle but not 100 sure%?). Have you got any shrimp in situ yet? Is the tank cycled and what are the parameters? Simon

You could certainly try both as the parameters are better for Crystals but they are more sensitive and the cherry are more versatile and would probably adapt just fine with a bit longer acclimating? It is unlikely to work as even if the fish don't ear the adults they WILL eat the babies, but maybe that's a lesson you need to learn the hard way, or it may work out, only one way to be 100% sure? Simon

From this.... To this.... To this...

Teaser.