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Already time for an update :-) benches are built (solid AS - massive thanks to my mate Kenny) I'll need to do some sanding here and there to remove misc stamps and marks then will give them a clear coat of varnish/sealant. Also all the miscellaneous crap in the room has been tidied and a lot of it stashed away elsewhere. When benches are ready then it will be time to shuffle the old tanks out and then bring in the new gear. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will

Thought I'd start to post some pics and updates of the progress and some of the steps along the way incase it helps anyone to learn from my mistakes and successes. Below is a pic of the room as it is now (very ad hoc) and also the materials we're using to build the new tables and shelves. We are using atructural pine for support including lengths along the base of the tables to spread the load with 25mm "eco" ply benchtops. Dressed pine shelves for misc frequently used items and to mount the lighting as well as to support waterchange dripping buckets. The waterchange method my friend and I have come up with (mostly him) is pretty neat and I'll share the details of how that will work later. The end result will house 12× 60 litre tanks and 2x 90 litre tanks all of which will be divided into two sections. I will be using a combination biospon and the standard style air driven sponges for filtration - all biospon will be driven by one larger pump hidden away supplied by a large airline around the perimeter and a smaller pump for each table to supply air to the oldschool sponges to ensure filtration and aeration incase of mechanical failure. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will

Thanks @jayc, Yep i meant that egg crate :) @jc12 I didnt have any algae problems with the clay root tabs, tbh i dont think i really needed it. You'll do fine without it but this was sometime last year when i discovered dino dung and wanted to test. Just super messy and a pain if you remove any stem plants out, the particles settle all over your plants and mosses, so you just got to flick your finger through when the waters a bit clear. I have tried API root tabs, the dino dung lasts WAYYYYYYYYYYY longer. Overall, like you mentioned, theres no need for any root tabs as the substrate was produced to fulfill that nutrient need. And yep, i purchased the 16kg scoria bag from bunnings, was enough to heighten a 4ft on both sides and back of tank, and left over for filter media. I have tried keeping my tank minimal too.. i tell yah, its not easy for me ahhaha I start off with one driftwood with moss, then slowly adding other mosses and plants.. Becomes a jungle real quick ?

Very exciting!!! Yay!!! :) Keen to follow your progress.

I am not familiar with drainage aggregate but you may have to check and ensure they do not leech out anything that might alter your water parameters. Or you can set up a rack first then let the numbers increase. "If you build it, they will come". ? Normal supermarket unscented bleach - 1 part bleach to 19 part water. Most people use it to eradicate snails, eggs and algae. Usually stem plants and moss don't do well with bleach dips. Some can pull through with 20-60 seconds dip, some never recover. 'Harder' plants like anubias, bolbitis, etc can survive 120 seconds or more. Dip at your own risk. Some snails like Malaysian trumpet snails are invincible... almost god like. I have also used flubendazole 50mg/g against snails with success. I have them handy as a discus wormer so I use it. It does not affect plants or beneficial bacteria but I cannot guarantee it is shrimp safe. I do half dose and have used it half a dozen times with shrimps including TB and CRS and they have been fine so far. Another option is potassium permanganate. I have never used this myself so no experience to share. What I do and my recommendation is to have a quarantine tank/bucket. Do a quick bleach dip and leave them in there for 4-6 weeks. Squash any snails if they should survive the dip. Another quick dip at the end of quarantine period and then add to tank. So far my tanks have been snail free by following this process.

Thanks @jayc, read last night that bleach works also - I might try that first. Now to source a couple of tubs for the transfer and cycle period and we are good to go. Thanks for the advice mate, you have probably saved countless shrimps and google hours!

@Kingo I think inkevnito meant this type of egg crate... https://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalogue_products.php?prodID=6659

@viridisornatus @NoGi I'm pretty sure the shrimps we keep have the bulk of their exoskeletons made up of calcium carbonates. Although some structures in crustaceans are made up of a calcium phosphate and carbonate mix. The possible use of the two forms of calcium on different parts of their body is for hardness and elasticity. For example, their mandibles need to be harder, so you'd find more phosphates there. While carbonates are more elastic for easier moulting. Shrimps, like fish, can absorb calcium from the water. If calcium is abundant enough in the water, the shrimps will obtain the majority of their calcium through their gills. Calcium in diet makes up the remaining source. It doesn't matter if the calcium is in the form of sulphate, chloride, nitrate or phosphate. The key is a balance with Magnesium. Magnesium keeps the calcium in a dissolved state. Magnesium also converts Vitamin D into its active form so that it can help calcium absorption.