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I had to set a tank for the few carbon rili I had left. The shrimps were passing away one by one in a tank where I could not find any reason why they were doing so... I an emergency rescue, I dressed a new tank, 30liters, new soil, plants, new sponge filter, and I dosed some Bio Nitrivec (SERA). 2 hours after, I moved the shrimps in that new tank, and crossed fingers... That was a success. Not only the shrimps stop quiting, but they start again breeding after few weeks, and now I have recovered a full healthy colony from the very few I had left (3 females 4 males). They are about 400 now ^^)

Hello, So I thought I'd do a quick write up on how to "quick cycle" a new tank. Please note: This is generally for emergency use and I'm not recommending people just do this as a standard procedure every time, when intending to buy livestock make sure the tank they are to be housed in is fully cycle before you make your purchase. -Its best to always let your tanks cycle and mature naturally before adding livestock and this is especially true for shrimp. Many of these steps are aimed at introducing BB (Beneficial Bacteria) Aswell as reducing Nh3 (Ammonia) No2 (Nitrite) No3 (Nitrate) and heavy metals. 1) If it's a sand or gravel then grab as much established substrate from an existing tank as you can, obviously without taking too much,- you don't want to set off a cycle in the original tank! :) 2) The sponge filters I use have 2 sides so it's possible to take off one sponge from an established tank and replace it with the new sponge without upsetting the BB too much, Then use this cycled sponge in your new tank. Or if you can pinch some cycled filter media like bio balls, ceramic rings etc,- If you absolutely can't take these from your existing tanks then just squeeze all the "mulm" from the dirty sponges into your new tank. 3) This step IMO is not really as beneficial as the others as only very small amounts of BB actually live in the water itself, but I'll add it. Use as much aquarium water from an existing tank as you can. 4) Get some Seachem stability or similar product, I think aquaone make one called "Bio". You can't really overdose this stuff, but having said that I wouldn't recommend wasting it.-There is dormant BB in this product that activates when introduced to Nh3 etc. I guess if your test kit reads any level of Nh3 you could dose again. 5) Whether you use tap or RO, Get a decent water dechlorinator that specifically states "Reduces Ammonia, nitrite and heavy metals" You can dose this at the recommended dose daily (not to dechlorinate) to reduce all the nasties. 6) Add plants and driftwood preferably from an established tank if you can, as lots of BB will hitch a ride over on the wood etc, and plants will eat up Nh3, No3 aswell as heavy metals.- I'd go with low light, low maintenance like ferns and moss etc. 7) Grab some Indian almond leaf, This does many things but mostly what we want it for is to slightly lower the ph converting toxic Nh3 into a less toxic substance Nh4 (Ammonium). Also the medicinal properties of the cappata leaf will heap reduce stress when livestock are introduced into their new environment. 8) Small daily water changes like 10-20% and try to remove as much organic matter as you go. 9) Add some mineral balls, They absorb Nh3 and release important minerals into the water that aid in shimp moulting and stabilising ph. Dont clean the filter for atleast the first 3-4 weeks- obviously unless it's full blocked. If you do all this as directed your tank should be safe for livestock even shrimp in about the time it takes for the water to settle and clear, however accurate testing should be performed before introducing livestock, if you have a few days to do this it would be even better. Once again people shouldn't go out buying shrimp and a new tank in one go at the lfs, Nor should they rely on methods like this to instantly setup a new tank every time they buy stuff. Cycling a tank naturally over time is a safer, better way to go, and lots of these tips can still be used to help speed up this process aswell. These tips can even just be used for reducing Nh3 etc in a problem tank. Quick product review: The API test kits are fine for general use despite their apparent bad rap, you just have to shake the heck out of them as per the instructions. Although with the No3 test, its really hard to tell a difference between like 10ppm, 20ppm and 40ppm, they are all pretty much the same shade of orange- yet the kit goes right to 160? Lol why? like if it's over 40 you know there major issues, they should have instead focused on a more accurate low range, eh just my 2c. Hope this helps some people :) peace.

Great write up Zeb. I used Dr Tims, some mulm and a cycled sponge filter when setting up a new tank with Amazonia soil - which is notorious for leaching ammonia when new. I think it helped as the tank was cycled within a couple of weeks verses around 3-4 weeks using on the cycled sponge filters and mulm. I've heard reports of Amazonia taking several months to cycle from scratch, so both methods are definitely improvements

and darn it, the forum doesn't read very well

Thankyou@ineke I decided to go ahead and treat the tank with shrimp in. After all they're only cherry shrimps.. I gave the first treatment with the recommended dosage and 24 hours later I can't see any hydra on the wall where they were well established last time instead there are tiny shrimplets grazing the biofilm hooray! Before and after photos attached. [emoji173][emoji111][emoji445] will

I'd say want ! But then I would need a chiller for my bloodstream, its too damn hot here !