+1 to what @neo-2FX said. API Bio Chem Zorb ... isn't that just a carbon & purigen combo? Also not needed until it is really needed. Like the carbon pad. Leave it out. The proposed media setup seems to have too much mechanical media, not enough biological media. The sponges are there to trap solids. But you need more surface area for the beneficial bacteria to go to work on the dissolved solids ie. Ammonia NH3, Nitrites NO2 and Nitrates NO3. Things like ceramic rings and marine pure will serve this purpose. It lets the solids pass by while the dissolved solids traverses through the media to the bacteria where nitrogenous wastes are processed. So your canister needs to order the media as neo-2fx said. In order of water flow. Usually from the bottom of the canister to the top. Course sponge first (at the bottom of the canister) to filter out the big solids which might clog the biological media.Medium sponge as an option if you have space to remove more solids.Then Biological media, which needs to be the bulk of the overall media. Fit as much as you can into a canister. This goes for HOBs too. Fit as much bio media into HOBs where you can. I like marine pure for the sheer amount of surface area it offers. Each MP ball has a huge surface area, and at it's centre, there is enough density to create an anaerobic environment for Nitrate reducing bacteria. But you can use things like ceramic noodles/rings, bakki balls, eheim substrat, etc. It's your choice. But pack biological media in ! I have 70% bio media (marine pure) to 30% mechanical filter in my canister as a guide. The last media is a fine sponge to polish the water and remove the finest of solids before the water returns into the tank. But why waste this layer to just any old fine sponge. The best media for this last layer is Poly filter. http://www.thetechden.com.au/Poly_Filter_20cm_X_10cm_8_in_X_4_in_p/pf4080.htm