Leaderboard

They aren't CRS . They're throw backs like having a kid with red hair or something ;)

There is a market for them however could always add them to their own tank :) I quiet like snow whites

lol Couple more weeks and I'll have my tank I am looking for sponsorship too!

Due to contract negotiations I am by law not able to answer this question, please consult my lawyer.

You getting sponsorship?

Lol, love the Boss Aquaria tank. Squiggle, we are going to need Boss Aquaria heaters, lights, tank and substrate too. Then fill the tank with Boss Aquaria plants and shrimp.

My berried CRS, hope she's the first of many!

WEEK 3 So week 3 came along, everything is going real well, can really notice that the Peacock Moss is starting to thicken and get fluffy I guess you could say, looks nice from a distance, the low quality CRS I have in the tank are doing really well also. Again another small water change today, replaced with rainwater tank water from outside, again 1 spoon of Boss Booster and a pinch of Mineral Powder added also. While I was cleaning out my other tank I came across 2 pure white RCS, I gather these are called Snow Whites? They are only juvi but you can see what they are and have no red patterning at all, so thinking of moving them into this tank, thoughts?

My red marble girl is berried again , fingers crossed she holds this time!

Grats man

Well Done Buck congratulations!

Damn that went quicker than I thought. LOL PM coming your way buck. If someone had PM'd me it wouldn't have counted anyway. Had to be posted here.

Ah too bad. Well, as you can see I don't keep secrets. At least not when it comes to the shrimp hobby. I believe in sharing the knowledge. But if anyone came up with an Agar food base for shrimps, you know where you saw it first Hi Tomrum. My initial reaction was 'no' to stevia. Then 2nd reaction was, hmm I don't know enough about stevia and artificial sweeteners use with shrimp/fish to be very sure that it's no good for them. After all, stevia is derived from plants, and it only tastes sweet but has no carbohyrates. There hasn't been enough experience and evidence with Stevia and shrimp for me to comment on. So the answer is, I don't know either. I can't think of any reason why it would not be ok, unlike Sugar. Definitely NO to sugar. You could try it out on culls, if you have a cull tank. But best not to test it out on expensive shrimp.

Might have to keep this one a secret as I may end up selling it later on once I get it right. Keep a heads up on the Adelaiade Shrimp Community FaceBook page as I'm thinking of giving out free samples first.

I'll post the Feb comp this weekend. This one is only going to be open for SKF subscribers only and will not have a post count limit. As mods know nothing about the comp they will also be allowed to enter.

3 Months later: I removed the neons a few weeks are i got the Crystals as they were fighting with the shrimps for food. The Bucopa has also been removed, as the water parameters has become steady. I also removed the Lilaeopsis as it was having a black algae issue. My first Crystal berried on the 26th of Feb and was soon followed by another 4. Photos:

Hi all, Recently, I did some testing on buce for about 2 month to find out what will be the best method to accelerate the grow. Hence, I would like to share some of my findings (initially I wanted to post on my blog but my blog is under-maintenance). Lighting - Buce prefers much higher lighting than anubias. However, if you keep them at very low light, it will survive and colour up but not growing much. The colouring up includes turning the emerged-grown leaves into submerge colour. But when you turn up the lighting to medium intensity (similar to the intensity for growing Staurogyne Repens) and does not inject CO2, the growth and colouring up stop. Once you inject CO2 the, the growth and colouring accelerated much faster. But it will concentrate on growing new submerge leaves instead of colouring up the old emerged-grown leaves. As such, I conclude the best lighting will be medium-low. If you planning to use stronger intensity, Otocinclus is must. Or else, the buce will be covered by diatom. Another interesting part of lighting is that when the plant receive sufficient lighting, they will grow leaves at the bottom instead of the top. Hence if you plant them into substrate at bright area and when you see them never grow any new leaves, use the twister and lift them up a little. You will see tons of leaves growing below. You may need to do this once in awhile. Before you do this, make sure there are some roots that attached to the substrate. CO2 - Tested from 5ppm to 40ppm and there is no significant differences. The key factor is as long as you inject CO2. Just a tiny bit at 5ppm will be good enough. NO3 - Tested from 5ppm to 25ppm and there is not really significant differences (I increase CO2 and lighting intensity when I increase NO3). However if the NO3 is below 5 and below and when lighting is strong, the leaves will turn yellow and diatom will form. As such, I will recommend maintain the NO3 at 10ppm (provided your pH is above 5.8). PO4 - All my tanks are consistently with 0.75 to 1ppm of PO4. Hence, I can't tell from my experiment whether they will affect buce or not. Trace Fertiliser - They love trace fert. The more you dose, the better the colour and the thicker and rubber the leaves. This makes me suspect the logic for them not growing new leaves fast. I think they have priority on using energy and nutrients to improve existing leaves, instead of growing new leaves like most plants. Best Way to Propagate - Trim them as often as possible. Once they grow to a decent height, they will grow very dense leaves. Once this happens, it is almost impossible to cut at their rhizome. For a new plant you bought, if the rhizome is long, cut them to small multiple leaves. A 2 to 4 leaves new plant grows best initially. If the rhizome has cut and the leaves are little, they will grow many leaves at one time. I did an experiment by taking a long rhizome with 2 leaves and use pen knife and do multiple cuts. End up, I get like 8 leaves growing at the same time (even in non-CO2 injected tank). Planting Area - The roots and rhizome loves substrate. Hence, they grow even much faster if you plant them into rich substrate (this is align with my finding on they love trace nutrients). The rhizome will not rot like Anubias. As such, Buce could be plant almost every where you like, except area that is high up and next to the lighting. Temperature - Tested 26C and 30C and they are doing just fine. Many claims that they melt at high temperature. I think this got to do with nutrients level, which is the same as lighting intensity. Higher temperature will have higher metabolic rate that may have the same effect as high light intensity. If sufficient nutrients (including CO2) are provided and lighting intensity is not too strong, don't worry about the leaves melting. They will grow back later on. Personally, I prefer them to melt away all the emerge-grown leaves and grow out the smaller, rubbery, thick and colour leaves. But there is one annoying thing you need to take note (not much people observed). Buce's young leaves are tender and tasty. Shrimp and Otocinclus love to much them. If you are keeping buce with them, make sure they are well fed. Or else, you will find your buce leaves start to have bit and pieces being bitten off. Hope these information help. ;)