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Hey guys. i got a new mutation from my orange rilli programme. to be honest i kinda expected this to happen eventually. if the red rilli and carbon rilli could have a blue body i thought it was inevitable that any rilli programme would eventually have the same mutation. well here it is! it's finally happenned and even better. the specimen has a tiger stripe rilli pattern as well not the normal head and tail! a big thank you to ronald marcos who took these photos for me. can't wait to see it under squiggles lens!

Hi, i'd like to ask you for your opinion! I just got a new rare shrimp and I just don't know what is it! I've been told that is a mischlinge from taiwan bee, pinto and golden, but I had never seen anything like this, And I would really appreciate your opinion! Many thanks!

Still trying to work out the best distance to place the camera:

After some research I have found how is it called! http://www.fisch-heim.de/zwerggarnelen/caridina/steel-blue-caridina-sp/ It is called steel blue caridina, I think i'm gonna separate her with a bb male! hope it's the right decision!

Sweet video! Great inspiration to edit a video I did of my snowballs and post it, its nothing exciting but its a start.

That's awesome that's what it is!

first pic IMO Is a female, you will struggle to have them breed at that temp or keep your shrimplets alive. Optimum temp for CRS you want around 22-24 max.

Thanks everyone for your input. I did end up getting more rocks from seaview but they are a slightly different colour. Thoughts on the new scape?

Diatom or brown algae isn't a problem. It's unsightly, but the shrimp will love grazing on it. When you eventually add shrimp it, they will have a ready source of food. Don't treat it with H2O2, I would just leave it. Presence of brown algae might also mean that biofilm is growing. So it's all good.

Ooooh sounds like a great competition idea.

Nice one dude, very cool!

LOL!!! Guys... It's no secret. Just that I got many of my friends off UGF, and immediately they observed the following results: Adult shrimp stop dying. Increased of baby survival rate. Improve of colouration Given said that, UGF is not totally bad. It is more of how you use and maintain it. If you are a hardworking young bloke (I'm the opposite) that has muscle, strength and energy to revamp the tank every 6 to 8, UGF could be an option. In in real world, even young bloke can be layback too. Hence, without proper maintenance regime and care, UGF will create more problem than help. ;) Just a little story about UGF (I posted this in an US forum before). In the initial stage of shrimp keeping period, Japanese and German dominated the expert world. German usually practice simplicity and leverage HMF frequently. Japanese is in the camp of over filtration by cascading multiple canister filter in series. Sometime down the road, some Japanese company created the idea of reduce the canister filter count (from maybe 3 to 2/ 1) and leverage the substrate as filter. If I don't remember wrong, it was Shirakura started to have UGF friendly substrate. This feature of the substrate also differentiate themselves from ADA AS. Years down the road, the Taiwanese started to buy Japanese Bee shrimp from Japan (initially they had a hard time obtaining them and the Japanese forbid them to resell the offspring by using their name). The Taiwanese started to replicate the practice of the Japanese breeder and tried to breed the JRB. At this point of time, JRB is very valued and highly sought off. In Asia (mostly HK and Taiwan), JRB are called as PRL in their local language. From then till now, you all know what is the current condition of PRL vs the real JRB. During the course of the development of Taiwanese shrimp market, they started to creates products to market against other countries. These products are tagged with a special breeding tactics of their own (I will not mention what are they and most of you know in the heart will know). But there is a major problem. These products and tactics of shrimp breeding are not engineered, instead they are kind of they tried it and it does or does not work kind of things. As such, these tactics may work for some and may not for others. When I started shrimp keeping initially, I tried out every tactics, methods and claims. All of them either failed miserably or disaster happened with no way to fix. Since I have both engineering and chemical background, I started to study the shrimps and differentiate the facts and myths. Ultimately, I am able to find out what is easily workable and what is not. One advise I have for everyone is: whenever someone recommending something to you, ask them the scientific rationale behind it. If the person does not know why or tells you that it works for him for years, be wary of it. For an instance, ask yourself how many things you heard about shrimp keeping and you practiced it, but you still don't achieve the same result as most people claimed? This is part of the reason why, I never tell someone something will 100% work. What I had been doing is to ask that person to take out one of the tanks and follow my entire solution. This includes sending him/ her all the required stuffs to practice my solution. After that, I let the person gauge the result himself/ herself within 2 weeks. Which is a "let result speaks itself" method. Not really showing a lot of pictures and making bold claims without substantial evidences or data. There is another phoney claims, usually from shrimp/ product sellers: "The shrimp just changed water condition, their colour will fade. The offspring will look better." Shrimp does drop colour when change of water condition, but it will recover after it moult within 2 to 3 weeks (depending on shrimp's age). If after 2/ 3 weeks it still look bad, it is either the shrimp has bad gene or the new product you bought is bad. Hence if someone claimed this, just walk away. Hope these information is useful for you guys. Read it at your own discretion. ;)

I have had a lot like this thrown in my attempted red bolt colony. Mainly derived from rr, KK and gb/SW. I have some with a distinct yellow clear body section and a few with clear section. Pattern seems to stay consistent.

Have about 20 or so from snow white now with no tiger gen in them.getting better results the more gen in I go.

I've been breeding SW Rillis, and they look similar...