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  1. Today
  2. sdlTBfanUK

    RESET TANK, D'oh!

    Thanks for that, I think I will try that just so that I know, though I don't think they will be going back into the tank now. Will be good to know though whether they were the reason. Simon edit 1hr later - I have done this, and also put some of the water in a cup to test the water itself, will leave both a week and report back. Ph was 5.5 when set up
  3. My guess is a fungus, so remove it as much as possible and do water change (slowly). The common causes of fungus are overfeeding (left over food), something that is decaying (plants or animals), or something emitting sugars, like driftwood.
  4. beanbag

    RESET TANK, D'oh!

    acid test them or leave it in a glass of remineralized water and check its pH again after a few days.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Anubis

    Welcome Anubis

    Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes Anubis. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin
  7. Last week
  8. sdlTBfanUK

    RESET TANK, D'oh!

    All the other parameters are stable and perfect, and the newly filtered remineralised water that goes into the tank when doing a water change is Ph5.5. I use the dennerle mineral double in place of salty shrimp as it is easier to use being a liquid! I do 10% water changes each week. It is a bit baffling to me but as there is no obvious problems at this point I am not too worried but will probably get some new substrate ready, just in case. The substrate that is in the tank is a year old and as mentioned the only other unknown that may have caused the problem was I had 3 geodes in the tank, which are a type of rock? Simon
  9. I leave the sides and back alone as well and the shrimplets seem to come out onto that a lot and IF there are new borns that is the only place where I get to see them. When you do a water change you need to add in the new water very slowly also, most use some sort of dripper setup. It may just be that the setup wasn't established enough, that is what I put my fungus down too anyway. Mine wasn't really anywhere that I could remove it but it cleared in less than a week, but if you can remove some manually I would do that.I imagine just adding the shrimp may cause a small/temporary imbalance as it then has to adjust again, if that makes sense? Hopefully you won't loose any more shrimps, and I wouldn't worry too much about the fungus unless it just keeps getting worse, as I have had this happen a few times with newish tanks and it has always just cleared up in about a week. Simon
  10. I don't think i have an algae problem. I just never clean the back glass or in that pic filter....I'm letting some algae grow for "food".
  11. If it's a new established tank, you have a problem, it seems you have a algae problem, so it seems like your water is not right.
  12. beanbag

    RESET TANK, D'oh!

    Check if the GH or KH are slowly rising. The Salty Shrimp GH+ is very mildly buffering and should have a pH of about 6.6 when mixed with RO water.
  13. Hi. It's a newish tank. I had it up cycling for 1.5 month before adding Rabbit snails. 1.5 months before Cherry shrimp. I thought it was ready......guess more time was needed. Thanks for the advice all!
  14. Looking at the photo, it seems like a established tank.
  15. I have had fungus a few times but it has always been in newish tanks that have cycled but not really settled down/established. Mine as tended to clear up on its own once the tank is established so I would just do the water change recommended by 'inverted' and just remove what you can by hand. I don't think the fungus will harm the shrimps (mine didn't) so it is more likely to be an indication that it may not be cycled properly or 'established'. The more information you can provide may show up something. Is it a new tank setup? Simon
  16. Do a 50% water change. Also get some more water movement in the tank... even an air stone. If you have fungus growing like that it’s a sign.
  17. Hey folks. My cherry shrimp have slowed down the last couple of weeks now I had adults dying over night. Ammonia and Nitrites are zero last check. There is this cotton candy like growth blooming in all parts of my tank. There must be a relationship to the shrimp health. See pic. Any idea what it is? All the best. Jim
  18. supermansteve32

    Help with dying shrimp

    Thanks guys. I'll do that starting next week. Thanks for the spreadsheet and the replies. I'll keep you all updated.
  19. sdlTBfanUK

    RESET TANK, D'oh!

    Thanks JayC, I may order the stuff so it is here so that I can do it without delay IF/WHEN something goes wrong or is obviously not right. The Soil is JBL ProScape shrimp soil and it was set up a year ago, forgot that point! Also the tank PH was 5.5 for the first months so as you say maybe I used too much, however the new betta tank is smaller and I used a 3L bag and actually it turns out the deeper substrate look is growing on me?? Thanks again JayC, I will heed your advice, all the other parameters are perfect and there is zero problems with the shrimp (as far as I can see anyway) so I will probably just buy spare soil in preparation and store that (unopened) somewhere in a dark cool cupboard so I have it for I|F/WHEN necessary! Bertie the betta also doing really well, active and curious thanks to your advice from the start of that project. Simon
  20. jayc

    RESET TANK, D'oh!

    It depends on what substrate you are replacing with. A good brand like ADA Amazonia will only need 1.5 - 2 L. It might extend the length of time, but it will affect the pH for sure. Too much and your pH will drop below the ideal 6 - 6.5. I wouldn't reset it if everything is fine. You can try other methods of dropping pH like more dried leaves and driftwood.
  21. sdlTBfanUK

    RESET TANK, D'oh!

    I think it is time I start thinking about resetting my tank and ordering supplies. My taiwan bee tank is up to PH7.5 (I need to check this though with a NEWER test kit first to check the kit is working correctly) and has been creeping up over time. There are no obvious signs of a problem with the shrimps whatsoever (incidentally I had half hoped that it may slow down the breeding but it appears that was not the case, dammit), so I am not rushing into doing this but as summer seems to be arriving I feel less reluctant to faff about with buckets of water than I have until now! The tank has been running on JBL Proscape shrimp soil but only the one bag of 3L which is about 3//4 inch and clearly that may be why it hasn't lasted as long as I thought it would so I am planning on using 2 x 3L bags this time which should be about 1.5 inches, Is that enough? I only used 1 bag before as I have to admit I don't particularly like looking at inches of dead space at the bottom of a tank when it has a clear glass front so you can see the substrate. I did have a geode in the tank as decoration but that has been removed now, but that may have affected the PH etc. It has 30L of water in the tank. The water that goes into the tank is Ph 5.5 so I'm not sure why the Ph has risen tp 7.5 other than the geode maybe????? My questions are, 1) Is 1.5 inches (6L) of substrate sufficient for 30L tank? 2) Will having more substrate than before extend the time before the tank needs to be reset again or will it not affect the length of time the soil works/buffers? 3) Do I even need to change the soil and reset the tank as everything seems to be fine otherwise? Allowing 1 week for getting the stuff and then the 2 weeks prepping the soil in the bathroom it will be a month probably before I actually do the mammoth task of changing everything around. Simon~
  22. jayc

    Help with dying shrimp

    Just use less Salty Shrimp mix, so that your change water TDS is below 200.
  23. sdlTBfanUK

    Help with dying shrimp

    Just been going through similar with CurlyJones. You will get closer and closer to the 200 but it will be painfully slow. I would do as recommended to him that you make the new water around TDS 100 when you do a water change, so after the next that should reduce the TDS to about 225 afterwards. The important thing though is to add the new water gradually, I know a dripper isn't practical with your large tank so maybe add 1 gallon every hour or something (only necessary as you are changing the TDS by a noticeable amount). Keep water change water to the TDS 100 until you get to the figure you want to get too! You should ALWAYS top up between water changes using pure RO water with no mineralisers! You should be able to use the spreadsheet I attached to CurlyJones even though it is in litres but it should still work the same as it is the proportion that is more important I think anyway. I attach a copy changed for 60 gallons and 10% water as it makes calculating the new water TDS requirement much easier? TDS Calculator.xlsx It won't be 100% though unless you know the correct figures to input, ie my 35L tank actually has 28L of water, the size of the tank would only be 35L if it were filled to the very top and had nothing else in it! Hope that makes sense? Hope you haven't had any more shrimp deaths. Simon
  24. supermansteve32

    Help with dying shrimp

    So I have a question. I just did a 10% water change and my TDS is 240. TDS of my salty shrimp RO water is 200. My question is if I'm aiming for less that 200 and I'm putting in 200 wouldn't I either need to change more water (which I can't do) or use less salty shrimp mix? Thanks
  25. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    There are different approaches and you can use any method really, depending on what you want to achieve? Initially you are wanting to reduce the overall TDS, but not too drastically so I would do 10% (1.5L) water changes with new water of about 100TDS, ona SLOW drip and that will take you to 275 from 295 first change and take it from there. The TDS will increase over a period from evaporation unless you top it up with zerowater between changes. At this stage you then have to decide upon how often you do a water change and to start with I would try 2 per week at 1.5L of TDS 100 slow dripped. After the second change you should be about 255 so virtually there so I would then go to NORMAL maintenance regime (next paragraph). INCIDENTLY YOU WILL GET THE EXACT SAME FIGURES IF YOU DO THE SAME CHANGES AS THIS, BUT JUST 1L CHANGES WITH JUST ZEROWATER, which is what I think your question is so it is up to you which you do? As you have some nitrate readings I would probably do the 2 x 1.5L TDS 100s personally. Do slower dripper though than you will normally as you are ending with 20TDS change in water! I am assuming 2L once per week, when the spreadsheet will be more useful for better accuracy. First 2L waterchange of TDS200 will take you to 248, and as long as you keep topping up with zerowater in between changes from then on you change with about TDS250 new water, so you should be all set from then anyway! As the old and new waters are virtually the same you can do faster dripping than when doing bigger TDS changes. This is of coarse based on variables such as 'have you kept the tank topped up', sometimes I get lazy nearer water change time so end up taking out less than I add new water but that can be worked out using the spreadsheet to work out what you need to mix the new water too, to get it right, hence tomorrow I will be removing 2L of TDS 165 water and putting in 3L of TDS 140 new water to get it back to TDS160 and at the right fill level for the tank. I think I would do as you are and leave the duck weed in this tank as it is probably absorbing some nitrates as you say so forming part of the cycle. I wouldn't use it in the new tank at all though, just use the water lettuce etc which is much easier to deal with. Hope this helps and you should be running as a normal parameter tank with a regular regime to make life easier and straightforward in a week! Simon
  26. CurleyJones321

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Yeah i have been using the Spreadsheet but i was wondering of adding water that had no minerals would stress the shrimp or not? also because you recommended to do it before i was wondering how often it could be done or does it really not matter? Duckweed wise i've kind of left for the time being, although its not growing as quickly i'm kinda experimenting to see if it gets rid of Nitrate as well as it gets rid of Nitrite.
  27. Just taken these photo this morning of all the shrimps I have, except the Blue Bolt. The mother shrimp has brown/grey egg.
  28. sdlTBfanUK

    New Shrimp Keeper

    I use the spreadsheet (I think I have attached before, but if not ask and I will attach it again) when ever I do maintenance/water change, which is once a week. I only use pure RO water for topping up. It is easy to use the spreadsheet as all you need to do is change the blue numbers and that way you can work out what will be the after effect. If your tank has 14L of water and you change 1L of water for pure RO it will take the tank to about 275, but that drop from 295 is fairly large (20TDS) so I would drip it in over a long period? I did exactly the same with the 15L tank when it was running, 2L water change once a week, using the spreadsheet to calculate what TDS to mix the new water too 'roughly' to get it to near the figure I want to get too, though obviously no single large change. Tomorrow is my shrimp day and I have calculated (using my spreadsheet) the new water needs to be about TDS 140 to take the tank down to 160 which is where I aim for (it is about 165 at the moment). The figures may look dramatic, but the overall drop is only 5TDS! If you don't know what the end result is I think you will be wasting a lot of time and money with trial and error and it could all go horribly wrong, so please try the spreadsheet and once you have worked out how to use it (I can give more help if needed) it really is so simple you will wonder why you didn't use it before? Using the specific shrimp products as you are you don't need to keep checking the Gh and KH at this point, just every so often will be fine. I understand the wish to get more shrimps but you should consider that the babies will grow quite quickly and each time the female has eggs it will be about 30 which will hatch about a month later and you only have a tiny tank. I started with a 15L tank and within months I had 100 shrimp, way too many for that tank to sustain! As for the genetics and gene pool etc that is a way off yet that you need to worry too much about that. When you get a larger tank it is likely to be at least a month before you can transfer the shrimps to it as well! Babies will be almost full size after 3 months also, as you have witnessed yourself how quickly they grow! Wow, this is a long post and hopefully it makes sense and I don't mean it to sound negative in any way! Hopefully you are getting on top of the duckweed as well and pleased it is going so well. Simon ps I have decided to attach the spreadsheet anyway! I assume 14L of water? TDS Calculator.xlsx
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