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  2. CurleyJones321

    New Shrimp Keeper

    Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:- Small tank TDS - 232 Temp - 23C PH - 7 NH4 - Unreadable N03 - 1PPM N02 - 0.05PPM P04 - 2PPM dKH - 2 dGH - 6 Large Tank TDS - 237 Temp - 24C PH - 5.5 NH4 - Unreadable N03 - Unreadable N02 - Unreadable P04 - 1PPM dKH - 1 dGH - 5 So the Phosphate is up but thats because i was massively invasive in the tanks and churned up the fertaliser i have in the tank substrate. The PH is also what i would consider to be completely off also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth. i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip. that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
  3. sdlTBfanUK

    Is a substrate really required?

    Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon
  4. Myola

    Is a substrate really required?

    Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)
  5. sdlTBfanUK

    Is a substrate really required?

    A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering. A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6? Simon
  6. So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp. I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas?
  7. ShaneDWright

    Welcome ShaneDWright

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  8. Last week
  9. ShyStar23s

    Welcome ShyStar23s

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  10. Jorgebucio

    Welcome Jorgebucio

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  11. jayc

    bee shrimps with eggs

    It must have been an aluminium heatsink. The Indium in Liquid metal will eat through aluminium. Only copper or nickel plated heatsinks can be used with liquid metal. It says so on the packet, at least my pack of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut does.
  12. I will try to add all the old tank's shrimps at the end of August to the new tank, had a problem with my chiller this morning, try to make it more efficient by adding a better heat sink grease, I added a liquid metal grease, apparently you can't add liquid metal, when heating up, the heat sink turning to dust, along with part of the cooler inlet and outlet. So far the shrimps are ok.
  13. sdlTBfanUK

    Here we go again!

    I have had the new shrimps a week and have ordered some new ones(10) for delivery friday. There are probably at least 6 of the 8 alive (they may even all be alive still) but as the tank is so densely planted it is difficult to tell, but I saw 2 black and 2 red this morning, as yesterday, but I'm sure 1 red and 1 black weren't the same as the ones I saw yesterday so there are probably at least 6, if that makes any sense??? Anyway that will be it for now and I will just let the tank and shrimps do there thing once this batch are in there in a couple of days, and I can get back to the usual routine as was, before this unfortunate event wiped out the last lot. All parameters are good, including the nitrates now, but there are a lot of brown patches on the plants and moss balls still......... It all looks a bit drab and uninspiring and brown!!! I probably just need to be a bit more patient? I will do some maintenance tomorrow and a small 2L water change, then the new shrimps will go in on friday after acclimatising. The shrimps were totally uninterested in the spinach or shrimp lolly I put in at the weekend but I am assuming they have so much biofilm at this stage that that is keeping them busy and well fed and they are staying under cover until they get used to their new environment and this strange ugly monster that keeps peering in at them through the glass from time to time? I guess if some 100ft tall bloke kept peering through my window a few times a day I would be a bit nervous/reserved shall we say? I removed the spinach and the shrimp lolly and put the shrimp lolly in the betta tank and within minutes there were 10 shrimp on it so there was definitely nothing wrong with that shrimp lolly! Simon
  14. Seahorse

    Welcome Seahorse

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  15. Earlier
  16. Traps don't work on hydra. Even with planaria, it is slow and it doesn't catch them all.
  17. Gabby PopRivett

    Welcome Gabby PopRivett

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  18. john.jilnicki

    Welcome john.jilnicki

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  19. Bren

    Welcome Bren

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  20. sdlTBfanUK

    bee shrimps with eggs

    Very wise as once they start breeding your population may sky rocket anyway, as they have with the CBS! I'm sure you should get some really nice surprises/colours when they start cross breeding too! Simon
  21. I will stick with the present shrimps, give it another month or so before I add some more shrimps.
  22. Lukec

    Welcome Lukec

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  23. sdlTBfanUK

    bee shrimps with eggs

    More fantastic pictures love the blue shadow panda and the 2 red pinto galaxy. Great to hear all is going so well! If you have a lot of CBS then they will breed when they are old enough so losing the 'mother' isn't too bad at this stage and they only love max 2 years anyway. Glad you still have 2 blue bolts as well - those will probably be my next purchase when they are in stock? The putting spinach in my tank has brought a few of my shrimps out but bizarrely they aren't touching the actual spinach? Seen 2 black and 3 red (of the 8 total I bought) so far today? Simon
  24. update my new tank is becoming stable, the shrinps are growing, I have seen many of the shrimps shread it's shell. My old tank is infested with black CRS, but the mother had just died yesterday, I still have two blue bolts and a few CRS.
  25. sdlTBfanUK

    Hydra & Planaria shrimp safe removal.

    The SL Aqua is a herbal extract so isn't actually a chemical and it had NO negative impact (they say maybe snails would die but mine didn't) so ultra simple, quick and effective. Mine was a new tank so there were only snails living in the tank at that time. The hydra I had were so tiny (tank was only a few weeks old so they were probably young) you needed a magnifying glass to see them and it would be quite difficult to remove them without disturbing the aquascaping as they were attached to wood (that is probably where they came from)! I have seen the traps on ebay but I don't know whether they are effective or not, but they don't look nice in the tank and how do you know if/when you have caught them all? I think the SL Aqua Z1 would definitely be the way to go if you have hydra/planaria and you can get hold of it, it is a natural product and couldn't be easier, 1 dose and you should be done, though they say you may need to do another, but I didn't, though I doubt there were that many in my tank anyway! Hope everything is going well with your shrimp tanks kms? I haven't seen many of my new shrimps (3 so far today, early yet though) but it is a heavily planted tank and they are adolescent size shrimps. I have put some fresh spinach and a pea in there today, hopefully that should draw them out? I checked the parameters etc yesterday and they were all spot on. Simon
  26. Whiles everyone is using chemical to kill the worms, whiles don't you just catch them, there are tools available to do this.
  27. rnguyen

    Welcome rnguyen

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