Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Maurice

Extremely low Ph

Recommended Posts

Maurice

I hope somebody can help me out as this is driving me crazy

I have changed from tap to remineralised RO water

I use aquasoil in my tank for crs and cbs.

The problem that I have is that the ph just keeps falling

The RO has a TDS of 12 and PH of 6.5 to 7

I reminelarise using Jayc'c DIY method to get to  tds of 140 and GH 5.5

But the Ph keeps dropping and sits at 4.5 to 5

Can I use baking soda to increase the Ph?


Before changing over to RO the water was PH 6.5 and the tank has been running for around 4 months now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
salvanost

get rid any stuff that could affect the ph

catappa, aldercone, wood

 

monitoring the tank with floating plant, healthy and fast grow floating plant would be a good sign

Edited by salvanost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maurice

Thanks for your quick reply salvanost,

 

I have some spider wood, not a lot, 2 pieces and 4 oak leaves, will remove and see if it helps.

I struggled with keeping the shrimps alive with tap water and thought it will go much better with remineralised RO, but seems I am struggling just as much but on a different level now 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
salvanost

don't forget to dosing bactery if there any sign of random death each day

no ammonia spike but dosing bactery when ph lower than 5 really good, but i don't see it as good solution for long term

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maurice

thats another problem, we only have stability in south africa and that dont work well in acidic water for bacteria

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maurice

KH is between 0 and 1

Just got back home and bought a ADA Ph kit

The Ph with the ADA kit is at 6.6

Also had a look at the old Nutrafin test kit, its expiry date is 31/8/2015, so might have been old

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

pH at 6.6 seems better with this new test kit. 6.6 is certainly normal.

It might have helped when you removed the wood and leaves.

Was your tank cycling? pH can fall to low levels when the tank is still cycling. 

What brand/type of substrate are you using again? ADA aquasoil?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maurice

Hi @jayc

 

What exactly happened was the tank was cycled and everything, with normal tap water as per guide with aquasoil and stability. Everything was fine for around 2 months and then my yellow, crs and cbs started dying off one after the other.

I knew the culprit was our tap water, so moved my shrimps to a friend's, to house them while I get my p/m right.

I removed all the tap water from the tank, well around 90% and filled with RO with TDS of 12 back and remineralised to 140 and 5 GH with your DIY recipe.

It is then when my ph dropped so low.

 

Do you think it might be that the RO has no buffer and this has dropped the ph so low.

 

I have added a vial of biodigest just incase it goes back into a cycle, cause stability is no good in water with ph below 7

 

I have tested again, ph of the nutrafin stays at 5 and ph of the ADA kit is at 6.4, tho I am a little sceptical about the ph kit of ADA as this is more for a planted tank with CO2......I think

 

I have ordered a Ista ph pen from a local pet shop and should pick it up tomorrow

 

Oh, the aquasoil is the newest type, we only get the newest type around here.

 

I have added back my shrimp yesterday, taking a chance here, and they all seem fine. The shrimp I added back are yellow neo, crs and blue jelly, even tho I am not sure which ph result to trust

Edited by Maurice

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
salvanost

i doubt amazonia soil would be 6.6

and expired tested still works, just minor color change

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maurice

Hi salvanost

 

Why do you say it wont buffer to 6.6?

I received my ph pen and after calibrating it my ph jumps between 6.7 and 6.8, so I'm actually very happy.

The nutrafin ph was way off, so thats seeing the bin

 

I actually want to get it down to 6.5, so will add some adler cones and ial.

P/M stands at

ph - 6.7/6.8

Tds - 135

GH - 5

Kh - 0-1

 

So it looks i am in the green zone for my crystals......happy days :)

Edited by Maurice
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
salvanost

be carefull with ATC brand, it's won't work normally under  extreme low ph

the sign would be a weird reading result after adding alder cone (the ph increase not decrease, tds too)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maurice

ATC?

 

I thought alder cones decrease/lower ph of water

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
anthonyd

Had to bin my nutrafin ph test as well.

My tanks with environment, ada amazonia and benibachi were reading at ph 4.5....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shrimpmaster

I have been experimenting with peat and because of that my PH dropped to 4.5. That was not my intention, but it did not kill my Crystal Black. Not sure if it would do in the long term.
I did normal water changes, removed alder cones and catappa leaves and it came back to about 6.0.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shrimpy Daddy

For every 50L of water, put two tablespoon of large size aragonite into the filter. This will stabilize the pH. All my matured tanks have it. There is no adverse effect when used for long term.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • kms
      It normal for.the heat to go back to the tank, the copper block is suppose to absorb the heat and take it hot water to the radiator with the fan to cool the heat, since the tube came off, the heat goes back to the block which is suppose to carry the cool water to the tank.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Usually temperatures in cellars are pretty constant (if it is underground)? I can confirm that even branded heaters can cook the shrimp (learnt that the hard way), it happened to me so a controller is a good idea. If you are that bothered about the temperature being the same and the cellar does fluctuate a lot you may also need a cooler, depending on where you are based?  Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Very sorry to hear about the tank overheating and wiping out your shrimps! Can you get a 2 plug adapter and have the heater and cooler plugged into that overheating safety device as extra security? I now what happened is probably just a freaky thing (who would expect a cooler to heat the water?) that probably won't happen again but you won't be happy with loosing the crabs???? Hopefully the shrimps will be ok with the micro crabs (beautiful red wine in the picture)? Most of the stringy algae has gone in my shrimp tank so I will do maintenance tomorrow, tests at the weekend and if all is ok I will order the (final) red shrimps next week. Thumbs up for perseverance! Simon
    • kms
      They were purchased after the incident, but I'm happy I found the crabs.😅
    • jayc
      I use cheap no name brand heaters now. I use them with my Inkbird temp controller, so I don't have to worry about the heater failing. ✌️
×
×
  • Create New...