Jump to content

Nice Surprise


Callan

Recommended Posts

What about Cairns and a field trip at the same time.

Totally selfish so I don't have to travel

I would try to make that one where ever it is,sounds like a good idea

 

Bob

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Have a look at the David Preston's thesis 2009. Southern Cross Uni.

I've looked at this thesis. It doesn't give any info on the sexual characteristics of males and females.

I'm currently looking at Smith's thesis from JCU, but so far, it seems it doesn't give them either.

Edited by fishmosy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What features on the pleopods would be evident for males or females? Is it similar to freshwater crayfish in that the males and females have different positions for the openings to the sexual organs? 

I've found the answer in Smith and Williams 1982 redescription of the riffle shrimp as 'Atya' striolata (since changed to Australatya).

Quote:

"...the appendages (of the males) were found to differ from those of the female types only in the pleopods which are described below."

"Pleopods 4 and 5. Differ from those of holotype and paratype females in having complete marginal row of setose spines on lateral borders."

"Other than the form of the pleopods, no other sexual differences were detected."

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's true but not the whole story :). The male they looked at was quite large (40mm TL) and was already in the process of becoming a female. The main difference between males and females are in the endopods of the first and second pleopods. Males have an appendix masculina. Compare figs of the female holotype and male. This applies to Caridinas as well. Another less sure way to separate mature males and females is to look at the side of the abdominal segments espec. 2nd segment. In females they are deeper to accommodate the eggs. In Males they are less deep hence their slender appearance. This indicates that the specimen someone asked about the sex in another thread is a female.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hey just wanting to know if anyone knows what to feed the baby riffles have three females that are berried up to the max and one that let go of her babies about a week ago but only about 20 have seemed to survive ?Any help would be greatly appreciated cheers.

Edited by ShrimpSilly
Trying to change it to notify me of any replies
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also I would be very keen to become a member or help start a Shrimp keepers club in Brisbane 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, ShrimpSilly said:

Hey just wanting to know if anyone knows what to feed the baby riffles have three females that are berried up to the max and one that let go of her babies about a week ago but only about 20 have seemed to survive 1f62a.pngAny help would be greatly appreciated cheers.

Have you tried green water yet? Infusoria? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No just ss rotifer and switching the water to brackish over a week I was hoping there would be enough micro organisms in that but they only last a week max have also tried not changing the water to brackish

I shall make some green water cheers 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in the mean time, you could try mixing a solution of fine powder in water. Just add enough to tint the water in the tank with the larvae green. When the water clears, add more. For powder, you can try spirulina and/or other microalgae, or powdered egg, or yeast. Just be careful not to overfeed. Survival rates on these dry foods arent as good as live food, but some survival is better than none. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...