Jump to content

The Anatomy of Shrimp (Dwarf)


jayc

Recommended Posts

It's important for us to know the anatomical parts of your shrimp, especially when trying to describe a certain section that might be impacted by disease. This helps with the communication and describing issues when we are asking for help or when we are offering help.

 

img_20120108_qnfunhqxllc3_zpsd13fe33d.jp

 

Have to use a drawing to get greater detail of these areas...

Penaeus_diagram_telson_zps42d5d4d2.jpg

 

Crystal-Red-Shrimp-reproduction-346x154_

 

Description:

 

·         Antenna - Shrimp use their antenna to feel around their perimeter looking for food and checking for danger. Shrimp also use their Antenna for “tasting†the water. They have 1 pair of the longer Antenna. These longer antenna are their long range danger detectors with 180 deg sweep from front to tail. The shrimp will use this in low light to feel around as they move.

·         Antenulles – similar to the longer Antenna, the antenulles are just shorter and they have 2 pairs. These shorter antenulles are also used to find food close to their mandibles (mouth), as well as to detect danger in front of them.

·         Carapace - The part of the Cephalothorax, commonly called the Head (actually includes the thorax too, hence the name cephalo-thorax). The carapace houses and protects the internal organs like the heart, gills, digestive tract and reproductive organs.

·         Abdomen - The back half of the shrimp or Pleon. This section is comprised of 6 smaller flexible sections. The first 3 segments behind the carapace is called the Tergum. And the last 3 segments of the abdomen is called the Pleuron. The abdomen is essentially a large fleshy muscle.

·         Eyes - For seeing, of course. They have very complex eye stalks that can contain up to 30,000 individual eyes. Although shrimp primarily use their antenna for sensing their immediate environment, their eyes are still a primary sensory organ to detect predators. They can sense brightness as well as movement, shapes & colours; and are able to see 360 degrees.

·         Rostrum - This is the nose part of the shrimp, and can be very sharp. The length of the rostrum varies with the type of shrimp.

·         Pereopods - These are the legs the shrimp uses for walking and climbing. Dwarf shrimp generally have 4 pairs of legs(8 in total). The pereopods also bear the sexual organs, which are the third pereopod in the female and the fifth pereopod in the male.

·         Chelipeds - are the modified legs that have small claws on them for grasping and ripping food. In Riffle Shrimps, these claws are replaced with fans that filter the water for food.

·         Maxillipeds – smaller appendages close to the mouth that hold food in place while they eat.

·         Pleopods - also called swimmerets; are the small swimming legs found on the underside of the Abdomen.  These legs are used for swimming through the water column.  They are also used by female shrimp for brooding eggs until they hatch.

·         Uropod - The uropod is the tail segment of the shrimp.  The tail propels the shrimp rapidly backwards when flicked using the muscular abdomen. In between the fans of the tail is a pointier segment called the Telson.

·         Eggs - Fertilised eggs are held in the Pleopods. Freshwater shrimp usually carry few eggs (20 - 40). The mother will fan the fans occasionally to keep them clean and oxygenated.

·         Exoskeleton - This is the shell of the shrimp. This is mostly made of chitin, but also contains some calcium carbonate. As it grows the shrimp will regularly shed its exoskeleton, as the exoskeleton does not grow. So don’t be alarmed when you find an empty shell on the bed of the tank. It’s not a dead shrimp, just one that has grown out of it’s old shell.

Contrary to what some might realise, the exoskeleton does not contain any colour. The colour of the shrimp that you see is actually beneath the exoskeleton. 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • HOF Member

Excellent article JayC - Even after 18 months I still haven't learnt all these parts. Thanks :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be a sticky me thinks!

 

I second that. But then I'm biased.  :rock:

 

<edit> Tidied up and added a little more detail in the Description section if it's even going to be a candidate for a Sticky.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I third a sticky.... and I'm not bias

Edited by inverted
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love your work JayC! Always so good with breaking things down for the rest of us to comprehend! Thanks heaps mate!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work dude, very informative. Your second thousand is off to a flying start! :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love your work JayC! Always so good with breaking things down for the rest of us to comprehend! Thanks heaps mate!

 

Thanks dude. I always remember that there are all levels of hobbyist on the forums from new shrimpkeepers to fulltime breeders.

 

 

 

Nice work dude, very informative. Your second thousand is off to a flying start! :thumbsu:

  :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
    • ngoomie
      Hello! I have a tank that currently does not contain shrimp, but does contain neon tetras which I am currently treating for Ich, as well as some bladder snails. Shrimp will be a later addition, likely cherry shrimp but I'm still doing research just to be sure. Initially I'd intended to buy some sort of Ich-fighting product that contains malachite green after doing a decent bit of research on it, most of which indicated that it should be shrimp-safe so I'd be good if I ever needed to use it again once shrimp were actually introduced (though I should note I'm aware shrimp can't get Ich, I'm more wondering in case the tetras could get Ich again, or something else that responds to similar medication). I ended up not being able to find any MG-containing products without either having to travel quite far or wait multiple days for delivery (which I was worried could lead the Ich to be fatal), and ended up picking up 'Top Fin Ick Remedy', a product that contains gentian violet which is a triarylmethane dye like malachite green. The bottle has two slightly differently worded warnings about its use with invertebrates ("not recommended for" and "not safe for" respectively), but when I'd been researching malachite green, I'd also heard of products that contain MG but not any other ingredients that would be harmful to inverts still being branded with warnings that they could be harmful, just as a "just-in-case" since the manufacturer didn't test it on any inverts, and I'm wondering if maybe it could be a similar situation here. I'm having a very very hard time finding information about gentian violet's use in fishkeeping at all though, it seems currently extremely uncommon. What I will say though is that I'm on day 2 of treating my tetras with it, and the bladder snails seem just fine -- in fact today I noticed what looked to be a bladder snail that appeared to be newly hatched (because of its size) that I hadn't seen before that was zipping around the tank without issue. But obviously, shrimp are not snails, and bladder snails are also notoriously hardy little guys, so what I'm seeing right now could easily be totally inapplicable to cherry shrimp. It might even be inapplicable to other species of snails, for all I know. Has anyone else here ever used anything that contains gentian violet in a tank that actually does contain shrimp? Were they okay, or should I make sure to not use it once shrimp are added?
×
×
  • Create New...