Jump to content

G'day All


Josho

Recommended Posts

G'day fellow shrimp keepers.

Just to introduce myself, I've been a keen fish keeper for many years and had started keeping RCS for about 4 years now.

I have a 50gal tank which is fully planted and houses two of Golden Severums + others. My shrimp tank originated when a previous tank one night sprung a leak and had to purchase one until a new one was built. It's only 10 gal (some might be familiar with the Aqua One AR380).

I recently decided to completely re-do my shrimp tank. It has course river gravel, some drift wood, java fern, java moss, and a crypt.

Last week I received packages from sponsors and should be starting the re-scape as soon as I receive some HC.

Changes were decided on if there is a day I decide to upgrade my shrimp to CRS (just need a chiller, RO, and external canister filter).

Changes:

  • Ista Shrimp Soil
  • Upgraded lighting (originally 11W, now 36W)
  • Plants: HC, japanese hair grass, hemianthus micranthemoides
  • Pressurised CO2 sytem (1L with solenoid)
  • Iwagumi style rocks
  • Getting rid of cone snails.

I look forward to meeting you all, and reading and contributing to the forums.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum Josho,

You will unlock alot more of the forum by posting or you can subscribe to the forum as a premium member for $12.50 for the year to unlock the whole forum straight away and get access to the classifieds section. You do this through the subscription part of your profile.

We love to see photos to so feel free to share

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gday Josho, welcome to SKF. Thanks for the intro... Photo's would be great.

C02 can be an issue for a shrimp tank so best to avoid if not necessary ... although the HC will appreciate it no doubt :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum Josho! Lots of info and friendly members here to share your journey!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the warm welcome guys. BlueBolts, it's the first time I've heard that CO2 can be an issue for shrimp. I assume you mean excess CO2? To be honest I haven't heard anything bad about it for shrimps apart from if you add too much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the warm welcome guys. BlueBolts' date= it's the first time I've heard that CO2 can be an issue for shrimp. I assume you mean excess CO2? To be honest I haven't heard anything bad about it for shrimps apart from if you add too much.

Problem is ... how do you know it's too much?

With fish, you'll notice them gasping for air.

Shrimp can't / don't do that.

By the time you figure it out, it's too much, it's too late.

Shrimps also prefer highly oxygenated water.

Oxygenating the water with plenty of surface agitation defeats the purpose of pumping CO2 into the tank.

Shrimps prefer dimmer lights, rather than super bright lights.

They won't die, but they might react by hiding, or not breeding, or just not being their playful selves.

So HC and HM in a shrimp tank is going to be difficult. Not impossible, but difficult.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum, definitely the best place to be to learn about shrimp. Ask as many questions as you like cause there's no dumb ones here, hope you have as much fun here as we do! :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Josh and welcome.

With regards to the CO2 it really depends on what you plan on keeping and how much you 'value' them. I have a small aquascape which i run from tap water with CO2, ADA lights (very bright) bi-weekly ferts and daily overdose of Excel for algae. I have Red cherries in this tank and they are quite happy breeding and cope fine with the lack of care around water parameters. I would be hesitant to keep Crystals in the same conditions as i seem to struggle with them even in tanks with RO water + salty shrimp and no plant additives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, sorry, I should be more specific, excess CO2. I lost my entire CBS colony 3+ years ago! due to my error and "stupid f**#*#!# malfunctioning valve" etc....yes it still hurts. As shrimp keepers, we tend to aim to oxygenate our water more, and if CO2 isn't necessary, then IMO, I wouldn't use it....I have 5 CO2 bottle in my garage ATM :-(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips guys. I've got a permanent CO2 indicator to monitor concentration of CO2. In addition I also run an airstone to keep the water oxygenated. If I have the CO2 levels right I hopefully will get the HC to pearl and which I have been told increases the oxygen level above normal.

The solenoid will also shut off supply of CO2 when lights are off. If the plants don't work out or causes distress in the shrimps, I'll move the CO2 system to my 50gal tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...