Jump to content

When is 'Blackwater' to black?


John.

Recommended Posts

So, I'm setting up a 2ft'r to house a pair of Apistogramma, however I will be introducing shrimp first.

I received some Aldercones from an amazing member on here, and I think I put in a few too many. I dropped in about 10 Indian Almond Leaves (Past experience showed that'd stain it lightly), then I dropped in about 6 Aldercones and overnight my water went insanely dark. So dark that even with a light ~1mm from the water I can just see through to the driftwood.

I will dilute the tank a little with some water changes, but was just curious if the tannins will cause any negative side effects?

Cheers,

John :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would depend on what apistos you are going to keep.Some need very soft acid water some not so acid some like tannins others don't have keeped and breed over 30/40 diff apisto sp in the last 10 years one of my fav family of fish.Have had some from Orinoco in water as low as 5ph and water you can only see 6 inches into the tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tannins itself shouldn't be a problem, but with everything, introduce them to your water parameters slowly to get them acclimatized. With tannins that dark, your pH might be very low. The shrimp might not be used to it, depending on which shrimp you have. Cherries won't do too well in low pH.

Can you check your water parameters?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 IAL & Aldercones for a 2ft'er seems excessive. More of a PH issue rather then a tannin issue perhaps ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I struggle with PH, I removed 4 Aldercones the morning after, and left the IAL..

PH has stabilised at 6.4.

I really want Apisto viejita.. But I've noted that they're in the 5.5-6.5 range... So I will be pushing it as the water goes to about 6.8-7 when doing a water change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of my tanks has only IAL and has very significant staining, so dont rule those out as the culprit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't normally rule out the IAL, but this batch has been extremely weak, only slightly tanning the water. It might just have been the first half of the pack that were duds though.

It could be a mixture of both; but I'm leaning towards the Alder cones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, Chi is right.

The larger alder cones contain a lot of tannin.

Where I collected them from the ground last autumn the gravel around them was heavily stained around the fallen cones from the tannins.

I love using lots of alder cones in my tanks just for decorative purposes and because the shrimp love grazing on them, So I just put them in water for a while until most of the tannins have leached out before I put them in my tanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys :).. I wanted black water as I'm going for a loose biotope, but I didn't expect it to go coffee black overnight, I thought I'd be able to remove some before it went too dark but the Alder cones certainly were effective LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hahaha, yeah I did the same thing with my Zeb tank, just used Purigen to take it back out again to a more acceptable colour. :victorious:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You wont find true viejita in aus only miss labelled mc masteri have tried hunting them down for 15 years to no avale as you need to pack heat to collect them something the collecters don't want to do risk life for your fish addiction

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Squigglessss - I added Purigen to my filter tonight. Should I leave it in there just until its the colour I want or permanently?

Daydream - Thanks Mate, I will steer clear of the Viejita as they wanted $110 for the pair, and I don't want to risk getting the wrong fish, Do you have any suggestions as to a pair of Apisto's that will do well in the blackwater with a school of Pygmy Cory's?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cacatuoides are my favourite Apisto's :encouragement:

If you leave the Purigen in there permanently it will eventually remove all the tannins & if you remove it the leaves will continue to colour the water till they breakdown & have no tannins left, so you have a choice, I would put it in intermittently so you still keep a slight colour(I have sumps so it's a lot easier to do that). :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big fan of cacs one of the cheapest and easiest to care for and breed.But if you find a good par of trifasiata they would be great contrast in tannin stained water with the corys as the red and blue would pop in those conditions with a ph of 6,2/6.4

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys! I did want to get Double Reds originally, but now thinking the Trifasciata's :-D

Tank looks amazing after a night with Purigen, can't wait to get the proper lights over it; atm I'm using a desk lamp lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
    • ngoomie
      Hello! I have a tank that currently does not contain shrimp, but does contain neon tetras which I am currently treating for Ich, as well as some bladder snails. Shrimp will be a later addition, likely cherry shrimp but I'm still doing research just to be sure. Initially I'd intended to buy some sort of Ich-fighting product that contains malachite green after doing a decent bit of research on it, most of which indicated that it should be shrimp-safe so I'd be good if I ever needed to use it again once shrimp were actually introduced (though I should note I'm aware shrimp can't get Ich, I'm more wondering in case the tetras could get Ich again, or something else that responds to similar medication). I ended up not being able to find any MG-containing products without either having to travel quite far or wait multiple days for delivery (which I was worried could lead the Ich to be fatal), and ended up picking up 'Top Fin Ick Remedy', a product that contains gentian violet which is a triarylmethane dye like malachite green. The bottle has two slightly differently worded warnings about its use with invertebrates ("not recommended for" and "not safe for" respectively), but when I'd been researching malachite green, I'd also heard of products that contain MG but not any other ingredients that would be harmful to inverts still being branded with warnings that they could be harmful, just as a "just-in-case" since the manufacturer didn't test it on any inverts, and I'm wondering if maybe it could be a similar situation here. I'm having a very very hard time finding information about gentian violet's use in fishkeeping at all though, it seems currently extremely uncommon. What I will say though is that I'm on day 2 of treating my tetras with it, and the bladder snails seem just fine -- in fact today I noticed what looked to be a bladder snail that appeared to be newly hatched (because of its size) that I hadn't seen before that was zipping around the tank without issue. But obviously, shrimp are not snails, and bladder snails are also notoriously hardy little guys, so what I'm seeing right now could easily be totally inapplicable to cherry shrimp. It might even be inapplicable to other species of snails, for all I know. Has anyone else here ever used anything that contains gentian violet in a tank that actually does contain shrimp? Were they okay, or should I make sure to not use it once shrimp are added?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58BrDSEY8KE  
×
×
  • Create New...