Jump to content

Up Co2 Regulator Help Pls.


izzy

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Can someone tell me why my first gauge is displaying 140 psi (Max)? This happens whether the co2 bottle is turned on or off.

Secondly, is it still safe to use? It still works but i'm just a little concerned.

Co2 regulator etc NOOB here. :(

Please see pictures below.

Co2 OFF

B65DE5A0-6267-49A8-8AD2-5009C65DE627-4808-000005E88E8409D2_zps35cb0787.jpg

Co2 ON

5CB9A353-A1E1-45BD-8384-412451862C92-4808-000005FC814D3FB2_zps9bf2ba63.jpg

Cheers,

Izzy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's not right, the low pressure gauge on your reg should be reading the pressure coming out of the regulator into your tank, when the tank is off it should read zero. My guess would be that the gauge is faulty & if I've learnt anything from scuba diving it that you shouldn't use anything that's faulty in any way when dealing with high pressure, cause it may fail at any time & that could be catastrophic. It probably won't but you can't be sure & you don't want the gauge let go & end up having parts go flying across the room & potentially injure somebody. I don't mean to scare you but I've seen some bad things happen when high pressure stuff lets go. :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Squiggle.

It was purchased a month or so ago and i never had the co2 bottle to test it until today.

Ahh well...my bad for not testing it right away when i received it. Guess i better save up for another one :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't go buying another one until you check whether you can get it repaired. I'm sure some place like BOC would know where you can get it repaired & tested, it may just need the low pressure gauge to be recalibrated or replaced. I'd look at doing that first, probably cost less than a new one. :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, after having a look at it again, try unscrewing the knob on the front all the way & open the tap to the tank a few turns, then slowly turn the CO2 from the tank back on & see if the reading comes down, the low pressure side adjustment might be turned up too much causing that reading. With most regs the more you screw the low pressure knob in the higher the pressure. Let me know how that goes. :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I asked Oli from Aquotix (as he just mows everything)...his response

Have to find someone over there to do it if they are competent....Problem could also happen when jolted / dropped .....

They have to carefully remove the silver bezel that holds the glass on... Then grab the needle (hand) with a pair of pliers around the round central part and gently pull it off the pin.... Then push it back on the pin in the right place - no need to be accurate.... Roughly zero will do

Hope this helps ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I asked Oli from Aquotix (as he just mows everything)...his response

Have to find someone over there to do it if they are competent....Problem could also happen when jolted / dropped .....

They have to carefully remove the silver bezel that holds the glass on... Then grab the needle (hand) with a pair of pliers around the round central part and gently pull it off the pin.... Then push it back on the pin in the right place - no need to be accurate.... Roughly zero will do

Hope this helps ?

Not sure if this will work BB, if you look in pic two it looks like the needle is held in place with a Allen head screw/bolt & if you try to undo that you might throw the calibration of the internals out. :dejection: But I think Oli is right & the needle is out of calibration as it does move a bit between being pressurized & zero pressure on the high pressure guage but I wouldn't like to speculate as to what has caused it &, if it has been dropped, what internal parts have been weakened or broken, anything pressurized above 1 Bar can be extremely dangerous if damaged. :encouragement:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,Just so everyone knows, this worked like a treat. I have no clue why the needle was out of place. It was a ***** taking off the silver bezel though.Thank you BB for the info.Cheers,Izzy

I asked Oli from Aquotix (as he just mows everything)...his responseHave to find someone over there to do it if they are competent....Problem could also happen when jolted / dropped .....They have to carefully remove the silver bezel that holds the glass on... Then grab the needle (hand) with a pair of pliers around the round central part and gently pull it off the pin.... Then push it back on the pin in the right place - no need to be accurate.... Roughly zero will doHope this helps ?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Time for another update! The PH this morning is 6 and KH 0-1 (you can't measure zero obviously). I plan to check everything tomorrow and then a water change on satuday. At the moment the TDS is 190 which should drop to 170 after a water change and then 150ish after the following/next weeks water change. Last time I checked GH it was 6, but again I will do ALL the tests tomorrow. I had to resort to using a PH/KH- product (AQUACID) to get to where these parameters are now but as the water I use has PH6, GH0 and KH0 I assume/hope I won't need to use that from here on, but will see if the parameters stay stable for the next week and have a PH alert disc in the tank which should indicate any significant change. I don't like using these sort of products as a general rule and wouldn't if there were any shrimps in situ and that product has raised the TDS at about .5TDS per drop. I may well order some blue bolts towards the end of next week (the road to the house will be closed for a month from 3rd June so it is next week or wait another 6 weeks) and see how that goes. I plan to drip acclimate them overnight this time so as to not rush that as it shouldn't get cold indoors overnight anyway this time of year. This all depends on the tank parameters staying stable for the next week (aside from the mentioned TDS adjustments with the water changes), though the GH  may drop a tiny bit with using just RO to reduce the TDS but that is fine, and even could be a bonus. I did manage to find some nice floating plant that I had before (good old ebay), and will try and get a photo of that at some point to attach, Azolla red I think it is called? Anyway, keeping my fingers crossed for now but all appears to be going well at this point! Snails seem to be doing well at least.   
    • beanbag
      That shrimp itself survived the molt just fine, but left about half dozen eggs still in the shell. I haven't measured KH in a really long time, but assume it is zero since I don't have any rocks besides a few small pieces of lava rock.  Maybe you have unwanted rocks in your tank?  My tank is the "long" style which I really like because I have a HMF on one end, and a pump outlet spout that shoots water all the way to the other end.  I have no idea how many shimp it can support because I don't really understand waste management in a tank.  Shrimp poop eventually turns into mulm, but then what?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      As at time of this post the SL Aqua is available from this UK website, https://gbeeshrimp.co.uk/product/z1/
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Just in case someone may be looking for the SL Aqua it is available from this UK website at time of this post, https://gbeeshrimp.co.uk/product/z1/  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
×
×
  • Create New...