Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Sprae

Darwin Algae Shrimps jump out of tank = deaths

Recommended Posts

Sprae

Hi guys,

I need some advice as I've lost a few DAS in past week as three have jump out of my housing tank, as I find them dead and dried up. Firstly, is this normal behaviour? None of my other shrimps (cherries, Darwin Red Nose & chameleon shrimps) have ever done that in this tank. I've had no other deaths in the tank either.

The tank parameters;

pH 7.2

TDS 145

Temp 24c

I'll need to check the ammonia and nitrate tonight. Haven't tested for a few weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dean

are there airlines or pipes they can climb on?

all shrimp will climb out any way they can :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sprae

Plenty. I have 2 air hoses into 2 different sponge filters, heater line, digital thermometer line, and a emersed anubias with some leaves coming out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
emboli

DAE are prone to jumping. If you see their behaviour in the tank you will see what i mean.

I suggest you place a lid on the tank to prevent this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
forocious

i found that keeping the waterline 5 or more cm below that glass line helps. DAS always jump -.-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sprae

Thanks for the info guys. Might need to gladwrap this tank as the clip on light can't fit the lid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fzha8447

wrap the tank if you don't have lid, that's what I did.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Juls

DAS and Cardidina Typus are both land walkers (Typus much more so)

it's not unusual for them to jump or climb out, especially during the first few weeks of settling in.

Typus tend to do it early in the morning, and if you get up early enough you find them wandering around the house still alive (sleep in and they are dead)

I've not noticed a pattern with DAS.

If you have lids, simply fill the gaps with some filter wool, after 2-3 weeks you should be able to remove it as things settle down, put it back in if you do a big water change or similar.

If your lid isn't fitting because of the light, get it cut at your LFS.

Juls

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sprae

Thanks Juls, I've glad wrapped this small tank for now. No deaths to speak of.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      As you say it may just be the light that makes them look a bit black, the ones I thought I saw were all on the sponges which are black. Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I'm pretty sure all the different colours of neocaridina shrimp are easy to care for! The only problem with mixing colours is them cross breeding which will speed up the reverting to wild or brown shrimps if they do cross breed. I say speed up as in my oldest tank I got a group of red  cherries 5 years ago and never had any others and they are mainly brown (75%) now. I have a densely planted tank and have been very lazy so have not removed/culled any browns ones over the years so at this point it would be very difficult to correct this without emptying the tank and starting again!!! Best to keep on top of it as you go. I would start off with just the one colour and get some experience with those first and come back to other/mixing colours a bit further down the line? With just 5 shrimps to start with you shouldn't need any food so see how it goes with them for a while before buying any. There will be more than enough biofilm in the tank for so few shrimps. If it all takes off and goes well then the 'complete' I would think should be sufficient when you have lots of shrimps though you should feed less than they recommend always? You can also use blanched ORGANIC peas and spinach and other plants etc which you can find out about on here? If you are going to use the CO2 then you will certainly have more luck with the lesser the CO2 I'm sure! If you can leave the CO2 off for a few weeks, that is what I would do, as you will then know whether the plants even need it AND it will be one less thing to eliminate IF you do start having problems with the shrimps? Good luck with getting the shrimps this weekend, drip acclimate for a couple of hours and ending up with at least 3 times as much tank water to the quantity of water they came in when you start off (or more). Don't panic if you lose the odd one in the first few weeks either, I always expect that to happen as they have been through a lot, breeder to shop and then shop to your tank etc and are more fragile than fish. Simon
    • jayc
      Thank goodness. You don't want to mix PRL with CBS. It's so hard getting Pure Red Lines as it is.  Keep up the good work.
    • DEL 707
      Thanks again. Going to do a big water change tomorrow then see how I go. Shrimp wise, there is a maidenhead aquatics near me that sell neocardina, so I was just going to use them to get 5 or so, to quite litterally test the waters. I've ordered a drip kit to help with acclimitising, I'm also going to turn the CO2 off, then slowly turn it on after a day or 2, to see how they do. When it comes to neocardina, is their care the same across the board, or are certain "colours" harder to care for? Would love a mix or reds and blues. Also food wise, what do you recommend? I was just looking at Shrimp King Complete.  
    • DNTM_Shrimp_Breeders
      Yes, I can confirm that rock / pebble rock / gravel will cause the pH to raise over time.  My RODI water comes out as around 6.8 according to my pH meter.  And I did follow the manufacturer's suggestion to wait 5-6 minutes when measuring RODI water because of the low ion.  After adding it to the tank, the pH becomes 7.2 -> 7.4.  The highest that I've recorded in my journal is 7.6 but it never goes higher than that. Here is my shrimp's diet: On M-W-F, I feed Bacter AE + Shrimp Baby.  On T-TH-S, I feed Shrimp Dinner. And on Sunday, I feed Shrimp King Protein to increase shrimp production.  Water change is once a month because I have a ton of floating plants to keep Nitrate low. @sdlTBfanUK It's probably because of the low quality image so it makes some of the PRL babies' color turn black 😁 But there are no CBS at all in this shrimp tank
×
×
  • Create New...