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Hammy
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When shrimp breed will/does the male stay around to help protect the female or is it a slam bam thank you mam bye. Type deal? I ask because I’m new to keeping shrimp and I have a female that’s got eggs and she isn’t happy when any other shrimp come near she just keeps moving away from them all, all except one male shrimp she is happy to have him about. I’m not concerned about it I’m just curious to know if it’s natural behaviour 

Edited by Hammy
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It is just a case of they mate and that is it, they don't pair up as far as I am aware!

Is the planaria treatmrnt working ok? Also, is the salt baths working?

Simon

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Everything seems to be yeah I’m not seeing anything I stopped doing the baths about two days ago and I’ve put them back into the tank with the others today actually and I’ve not seen any increase in the hydra I do still have one tiny tiny one on the glass but I’m positive it’s getting smaller and not bigger so I’m hoping that’s sorted. I’m due to give it a water change but I was wondering if I could/should give it another treatment or would that be a bad idea. all my stats are where they should be. 

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The eggs you see being carried by the female have already been fertilised.  She is carrying them until they hatch. The male responsible is long gone.  She might be giving other males the cold shoulder because she is not receptive and wont be until the next moult by which time the current load of eggs will generally have hatched.  Occasionally the timing will get skewed such that the female moults before all the eggs have hatched and the eggs will be shed with the old exoskeleton but generally speaking this isn't "the plan".

Edited by Grubs
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I think you shouldn't do a water change whilst doing the treatment (will dilute the treatment) for planaria, which is a week I think, then you can do one, Tuesday/Wednesday. By then there shouldn't be any planaria left so I don't think I would do another treatment at this stage, but at least you have it to hand should it recur at some point in the future.

As grubs points out about the eggs, and you had very few hydra anyway, I would avoid doing a large water change though, as that can cause a shrimp to moult and you don't want that happening to the one carrying the eggs!

Simon

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I’ve managed to find a better bigger tank it’s a 64ltr panoramic tank I would like to transfer what I have in my tiny 15ltr to the bigger tank what would you guys do to achieve this I'm not in any rush but obviously I would like to do it right. 

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57 minutes ago, Hammy said:

what would you guys do to achieve this

Set up the new tank how you like it to end up looking and start the Nitrogen cycling process.

Add another sponge filter in the existing 15Ltr tank right now, so bacteria start to grow on it. This filter will be transferred to the new tank after a month.

Any water change done in the 15ltr tank should be dumped into the new 64ltr tank.

Once the new tank is cycled and the parameters are close to the old tank, you can start acclimation of the shrimp to the new tank.

Edited by jayc
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How exciting, you should have great fun setting that up and laying it all out, that's a good size tank! JayC has covered the process! What type of substrate are you going to use, some have a starting process of their own, usually 2 weeks?

Hope everything else is going to plan?

Simon

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Yeah everything is going great (touch wood) I’ve not had anymore deaths and I’m pretty sure I have gotten on top of my vorticela problem I’ve not seen anything to make me think otherwise and also the hydra that I could see well I can’t anymore so I’m happy knowing that’s working. To be honest I never thought I’d enjoy it this much I’m learning loads of new stuff it’s great 

I was thinking about taking one of my sponges out of my external filter and putting that in the new tank along with the rest of the dr Tim’s I have left what do you think 

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With my tanks, they usually have 2 filters and I put one of the sponges from one in any new tank, but there needs to be more than one sponge otherwise it will upset the old tank! As long as there is not an excessive amount of dr tims left, that should be ok, but I would add half at the start and the rest 2 weeks later as there may not be enough in the tank to keep all the bacteria alive!

I use Bacter AE in my tanks, it may be worth getting some of that, pro-shrimp have it in stock. 

Once all the plants etc are in place in the new tank it may be as well to treat for planaria/hydra before you start transferring any shrimp as a precaution, and you already have it to hand anyway.

Great to hear you are enjoying learning as you go, so many people would just give up with the problems you have had, but you are doing very well.

Simon

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Cheers I appreciate you saying and my filter has three different filter size sponges and then at the very bottom it has what the box called bio balls but to me they’re just plastic balls with fins I have now learned it’s to give them more surface for bacteria. 

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So what I’m thinking of doing is to fill just over half way and adding half of the Dr Tim’s and the top sponge from my filter to give the Dr Tim’s more surface area I was thinking about using the rest of the fluval full mineral stratum and I have some new growth that I can remove from the little tank to put into the new tank. Also I have a lot of new snails that have emerged so I was thinking about adding some of them 

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That all sounds good, the snails will produce some waste to fuel the bacteria and I don't think there is any prep required with that substrate as it is volcanic!

Will you be transferring the filter system from the 15L, or do you plan to get a new/separate one for the new tank?

Simon

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Yeah I’m wanting to put the external filter on the new tank it’s 400ltrs an hour and says it’s good for any tank up-to 150ltrs. Also I think it’s more pleasing to the eye two almost see through pipes are better than the big black filters that sit in the tank in my opinion also the noise is a big difference I can hardly hear the external one running 

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The filter system will have the majority of the bacteria so you could probably transfer everything over safely in a couple of weeks rather than waiting a whole month probably! Doing regular Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests should show some signs it is cycling ok etc! If you plan to shut down the 15L then just transfer everything to the new tank, water, substrate etc on transfer day, whilst you acclimate the shrimps!

Simon

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10 hours ago, Hammy said:

Yeah I’m wanting to put the external filter on the new tank it’s 400ltrs an hour and says it’s good for any tank up-to 150ltrs. Also I think it’s more pleasing to the eye two almost see through pipes are better than the big black filters that sit in the tank in my opinion also the noise is a big difference I can hardly hear the external one running 

400lph on a 64ltr tank seems a bit like overkill, especially for a shrimp tank. There’s a chance you could have too much flow, and the shrimp wouldn’t appreciate it.

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400l/h is as you say overkill but it shouldn't be too much of a problem if the tank is specifically set up to avoid any strong flow, or if the water outlet is something like a water fall. My old shrimp tank is 30L and has 2x100l/h. Also Hammy is using that same filter system already in the 15L tank???

Hammy, try to avoid too much water movement in the new tank setup with the filter you have as, as crabby states, shrimp don't like strong water flow, there may be many different ways of doing this dependant on the system outlet type/design, for instance in my betta tank I have a sponge (meant to cover inlet tubes) covering the filter outlet, as betta don't like flow either!

Simon

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I wasn’t aware of the shrimp not liking any flow that being said My filter has a flow restrictor on it so I can adjust how strong also the outlet has the waterfall fitted and is facing almost directly towards the glass I’ve had it set up like that for a while now and to be completely honest with you two of the shrimp seem to enjoy it they will swim back add fourth through the flow and also try to swim up the flow as I sit and watch them. Oh also my inlet has extremely small holes and thin slices to try and not let anything else other than waste in but after reading the post I think I’ll cover it with a sponge just to be on safe side. Thanks for the information guys 

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It maybe a good idea to put sponge over the inlet as the pull of the water with 400l/h may be strong and you won't want any nay shrimps draw  into the filter. I would get course sponge so it doesn't restrict the flo inward too much, and you will need to keep removing it and squeezing it in a cup of tank water every so often (maybe twice a week should be sufficient, but you won't really know until you try) so it doesn't get blocked and burn out the pump motor! You will probably see shrimp grazing on it often. As you say, occasionally the shrimp will swim in the flow of water but generally most of the time they prefer quite still water.

Simon

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
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Yeah that’s not a problem because I have to take the inlet end of once a week or two to remove any waste that wasn’t able to get in. The spaces in the end cap are less than a mm ive had week old snails all over it and they have had zero problems but I would rather be on the safe side with the shrimp thanks again 

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Great advice from the seasoned shrimpkeepers to those new to the hobby.

That's why I love this forum. ?

Edited by jayc
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  • 1 month later...

Honestly I can’t tell you however in my aquarium I have a pump that mimics the current and I have seen my shrimp swimming in it (the current not the pump lol ) I’ve been told that they don’t like the current however that’s not my experience from watching them. Hopefully this was helpful. Simon and JC will be able to give you more information than myself I’m still relatively new to keeping shrimp 

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    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
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    • professionalshrimphugger
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