Jump to content

Sick shrimp


Hammy
 Share

Recommended Posts

I’m really gutted and angry and annoyed with my self I had done what I thought was loads of research checking I had everything and was doing things correctly well I’ve noticed at the back of the tank I had a dead shrimp so I started to search them all out to give them a good look over and I’ve found some are not well they are definitely infected with something I’ve given the article here a read so I’m going to try and fix the problems. Here’s a picture of the sick ones I’ve separated them from the others  any other information on how to treat would be a great help thanks  

Edited by Hammy
Deleted the pictures sorry
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what I am supposed to be looing at specificaly! Some are low grade but did they look like that to start with? Getting them off ebay I would expect mixed grades as they are likely from a hobbyist? Some look more like blue tiger shrimp?

What are you looking at that you are not happy about?

Simon

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They were all blue except one that was a very light blue and now turned red anyways these have gone a funny patch like and they are extremely sluggish three keep swimming around upside down as if they are disoriented. I was looking at the sick shrimp advice here and it was saying that the shrimp internals can turn a different colour if it’s bacterial and I’m sure I’m seeing that in a couple I wish I had taken a little video of them in the tank before I removed them to show you. I would be very happy if I’m wrong 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You said that a couple looks like tiger shrimp if they turn out to be do they require anything else 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If they are tigers they will be fine in the same parameters so no need to worry about that. I'm not seeing any evidence of the interior changing colour except maybe the very bottom last shrimp. Swimming around like loonies is usually because there is a female ready to mate in the tank and they (males) are trying to find her!

JayC is more of an expert on health problems and he will probably be on here later! 

I would expect one or two to die within the first month from stress of travel etc so try not to over-react as you could actually make things worse. Just carry on with the salt baths where needed and let the others settle in (keep them in the net for now if they are already in there until JayC has had a say, just to be sure).

Simon

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice I am extremely grateful I’ll wait to hear what thoughts JayC has. Thanks again Simon 

Hammy(Stephen) 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Hammy.

Let's start from the beginning.

How mature/old is the tank? Is it completely cycled? How did you cycle it - with bacteria in a bottle or with mature filter media or just naturally?

Can you tell us more about the shrimp and why you think they are infected/ill?

How many did you start with and how many have died?

What shrimp are these supposed to be? Blue Velvets? Dream Blue velvets? 

What water parameters do you have in your tank? pH / KH / GH / TDS / temps.

Can you get a close up photo of the shrimp in brighter lighting, side shot on a white background please?

Like this as an example...

(just some random picture I got off the internet)

Aquatic Arts 1 Live Freshwater Dream Blue Velvet Shrimp ...

 

 

Symptoms could be bacterial, but it could also be ammonia poisoning if your tank is not completely cycled.

Some of your shrimp do show signs of internal infection (3rd photo), but I need a clearer, brighter photo to be certain. Healthy Blue velvets are yellow-green internally. Any orangey-red is infection.

Move them into a square/rectangular glass jar if you have to take better pictures. My wife's flower vases frequently get used for photoshoots when I am desperate.

Mass deaths due to bacterial infection in new shrimps is very unlikely. It is more likely to be ammonia poisoning. 

A 50% water change right now wouldn't hurt even with this initial diagnosis.

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Hammy said:

You said that a couple looks like tiger shrimp if they turn out to be do they require anything else 

Just to clear it up, I don’t think any of those look like tigers. Some are just lower quality blue cherries. 
Despite spending a lot of time on this forum, I’ve never been good with shrimp diseases. I can recognise a few obvious parasites or diseases, but that’s about it. However I’m seeing the same red patch under the shell of one of those shrimp in the third photo as jayc mentioned, and that looks worrying. Unfortunately that’s about as much as I can say without making assumptions. Jayc and Simon are great with this kind of stuff, so you’re in good hands. The most you can do to ensure your shrimp do well is to provide accurate information and the best photos you can.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Crabby said:

Despite spending a lot of time on this forum, I’ve never been good with shrimp diseases

You give yourself less credit than you deserve. 

You would know a lot more than the average shrimpkeeper, just by the fact that you hang out here so often. Everything we discuss would have been absorbed. 

But yes, I also agree, these are not tiger shrimp at all.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think from the others posts I wouuld check first the Ammonia and let us know how you cycled the tank?

I am still a little unsure about that sshrimp with very little colour so you could remove that one and put it in a small plastic container and float it in the tank for now, though being such a low grade most people would just cull it anyway! A shrimp with so little colour I would imagine you will be able to see all of its insides, but they are a bit cloudy looking?

I think most people, me included, saw shrimp somewere, bought them immediately, then read up on them so you have aa head start on most people!

1 - test ammonia (and other parameters if you have the kits to do so).

2 - remove that suspect shrimp and float it in a small container for now, or cull it!

3 - Let us know what the test(s)/parameters are and what you did to cycle the tank! If you do the water change that JayC recommends make sure you add the new water very slowly, dripping is best! If you have the stuff and ability to do the other things per JayC do those where possible!

Simon

ps JayC, they are supposed to be blue velvet, he got 12 (from ebay) and 2 have died (that death rate is about normal for me from ebay within the first month).

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tank is old it’s one we had lying around I washed it out and purchased the fluval statum (min rich) and plant’s,and had also collected loads of rain water I set everything up and had it sitting for a week I was given a couple of rams horn snails to put in the tank but I noticed that they were laying eggs like mad so I removed them and as many of the eggs I could see. I had then purchased the shrimp and when they came I climatized them. I will get better pictures today when I had a look this morning they looking better and I’m sure they have changed colour again slightly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, Hammy said:

set everything up and had it sitting for a week

Right. This tank is not cycle properly then with only one week of sitting around.

Which means there is not enough beneficial bacteria in it to handle the ammonia. Have you got an ammonia test kit to check that parameter?

Your shrimp is very likely dying of ammonia, not a disease. 

Perform a large water change immediately. Then get some beneficial bacteria product into the tank asap.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay thanks for that information I’m now going to get on this straight away. Some people tell you some crap and very little info. I’m so glad I found this forum you guys have been great thanks I really appreciate it 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No Problem.

Ask more questions, if in doubt.

We were all new to shrimp keeping once upon a time, so I understand that some people have a lot of questions. But we can't help if people don't ask.

You might have to do daily water changes until Beneficial Bacteria start growing in your tank.

 

I highly suggest you look at purchasing

1) Ammonia test kit.

2) Nitrate test kit.

3) Beneficial bacteria in a bottle. Let us know what options you have of purchasing this. There are some better brands and some that don't work. Ideally, if you can get a friend to squeeze their filter media into a bucket for you, that will be the best method of seeding your tank with millions of beneficial bacteria. Pour that gunk straight into your tank and you will boost the cycling period of your tank.

 

Have you got that GH/KH+ mineraliser for your rainwater yet?

 

Use the Prime during your water change. Even though you are using rainwater that should not have chlorine, the Prime will help bind ammonia and turn it into something less harmful. Still not the best for shrimp, but at least it will help slow the deaths. Please note however, the shrimps have already been exposed to a lot of ammonia, so anything we do now might be too late, but it's still worth a try.

 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay I will do I’ve just been looking at test strips and I came across one that sits inside the tank and gives you a constant ammonia read so most likely be getting that however if you know of any brand of test strips that works good please let me know and I was just about to ask you about the prime but you have already mentioned it. Thanks folks and yes I have gotten some gh/kh+ and adjusted to the levels you said 

Edited by Hammy
Forgot to add
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seen as you said ask I have another query I was given some Supa Tonic Salts I’ve not used it but it does say suitable for freshwater aquariums is it something that would be beneficial or not it has very little information. The fact that it says salt makes me think no but that’s why I’m asking. image.thumb.jpg.07604122c8953c901268c6557f11cbd2.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get the API Ammonia test kit. This liquid test kit will be better than a strip test. the box looks like this ...

API Ammonia Test Kit - Serene Aquarium

As for aquarium Bacteria starters, see if you can find any of the following:

Dr Tim's One and Only.

Tetra SafeStart Plus

Fritz Aquatics FritzZyme Nitrifying Bacteria

ATM Aquarium Products Colony Nitrifying Bacteria

2 minutes ago, Hammy said:

Supa Tonic Salts I’ve not used it but it does say suitable for freshwater aquariums is it something that would be beneficial or not

Not very useful for shrimp keeping.

Salt only has one application, and that is to get rid of external parasites on shrimps. To be used as a salt bath, externally outside of the main tank. Never add salt into a freshwater shrimp tank.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job JayC has you covered, I had visitors arrive so not been around much today! Proshrimp will sell what you want but obviously not now open until monday, but they do post same day (mon-fri) - www.pro-shrimp.co.uk

Simon

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a look as well, now that I know you can shop at Pro-Shrimp.

I'd get one of these ....

Dennerle Bacto Elixir Bio,

Tetra SafeStart.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello there guys just wanted to give you a little update everything looks good at the moment all the shrimp seem happy and are moving around like they should. Only one died out of the 5 I was concerned when I left at 5 am it was still alive and one colour I’ve just gotten home and as I had expected it was dead but it has gone orange 

  • Like 1
  • Sad 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clear it was to far gone to be saved but I’m not seeing signs in the others which I’m very happy about. I’ve ordered some dr Tim’s one and only and the test kits for ammonia ,nitrite and nitrate. Great big thank you to JayC and Simon for your help 

             THANK YOU SO MUCH 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're welcome.

When you get the products let us know the results of your ammonia test before adding Dr Tim's.

Then add double the recommended dose of Dr Tim's.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jayc said:

You're welcome.

When you get the products let us know the results of your ammonia test before adding Dr Tim's.

Then add double the recommended dose of Dr Tim's.

Will do 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
      United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2?  Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!  
    • professionalshrimphugger
      Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA
×
×
  • Create New...