Jump to content

Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ and PH


DEL 707

Recommended Posts

I'm using RO water with Salty GH/KH+ because my water is very hard, but I'm currently having trouble with my PH.

Adding salty GH/KH+ to my RO water, should it give me the same PH everytime?
I did a test with 10lts tonight and I got a PH of around 7.3.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, DEL 707 said:

Adding salty GH/KH+ to my RO water, should it give me the same PH everytime?

It should be close, but not necessarily the same, since adding a bit more or less will impact the reading.

pH 7.3 from Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ sounds about right.

If you don't want pH to increase, than you need Salty Shrimp GH+.

Not the GH/KH+, which increases KH as well as GH. KH increases raises pH.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds about right and perfect for the cherry shrimps so you have the right one.

As JayC says, it is more difficult to get exactly the same reading each time especially with the powders, which is why I prefer the drops myself. As long as it is close it will be ok and when there are shrimps in the tank it is best to introduce the new water slowly (dripper) and not do too large quantities! The soil will adjust the water to the 5.8 until it is exhausted of its buffering ability as long as it is added slowly so it will stay 5.8 in the tank. It will very very slowly then go up in the tank when the soil stops buffering but it will happen so slowly the shrimps will be fine and adjust to it as long as you only do small water changes and add the water gradually!

Simon

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wish I wrote all this down, my RO water PH is 5.2, the remineralised water with salty GH/KH is around 7.3.
I did a small 10lts water change around 3 days ago, wanted to make some test water to see the PH, and I put it into the tank.
I did a PH test yesterday on my tank water and it's now around 6.3, which is making me think I didn't dose correctly on that last big water change.

The tank used to be around 6.5 PH, which was perfect, so I'll see if it gets back to that on the next big water change.

Is there a way to increase my PH without using KH?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the cherry shrimps the PH of 7.3 is about perfect, not sure where you got the perfect figure of 6.5, that would be crystal/bee shrimps?

With RO water and GH/KH+ the parameters should always be perfect as that is what the products are basically. The PH is probably dropping due to the substrate and that will carry on for a while until the buffering of the substrate exhausts itself! The the PH will slowly creep up but so slowly it is unlikely to affect the shrimps in any bad way!

If you don't have any deaths then just carry on with what you are doing and mix the new water to PH 7.3 and the substrate will absorb some of it, as long as you only do small//slow changes of water I expect you will be fine? The RO figure you mention is about right (similar to mine anyway) as well so it all looks good to me so carry on and don't mess with it as that is probably more dangerous to shrimps than the slightly low PH is?

IN FACT I would ignore the PH at this point (as the figure you are getting seem ok) and just test it randomly for that, and use the GH/KH+ mixing to the ideal TDS instead because, as I say, the shrimp products are perfectly BALANCED anyway!

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely just go with it as it is, it will work out fine and any other soil substrate will do the same anyway! Not sure if you have any shrimps yet but I think the proposed cherry shrimp (and amano) will be fine as long as you acclimate them over a long period and don't do big water changes as normal maintenance, about 10% is sufficient. The plants like the soil substrate and I personally think it looks better and more natural.

I'm not recommending this but just to show how tough the  cherry shrimp can be, when I got the betta tank I put some cherry shrimps in his tank as food, he didn't touch them (he watches them sometimes) and now I have a colony of them in his tank (mostly wild colour), but they went directly from PH7.5 to PH6 and the temperature was at least 3 or 4 degrees different, I didn't acclimate them AT ALL as they were meant to just be food so why bother. The Betta tank is now at PH7.5 as the buffering has obviously exhausted and I use tap water which is PH7.5. It took about 3 months to exhaust the shrimpking substrate I used in my case, doing 20% weekly water changes (a bit more than with just shrimps as the fish makes poo also).

If you haven't yet got any shrimps you can do bigger more regular water changes to exhaust the substrate but personally I would just get some shrimps and give it a try. Drip acclimate them over about 3-4 hours and off you go, doing about 10-20% weekly SLOW water changes! You may lose a few shrimps in the first few weeks but that happens to me however careful I am anyway?

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks.

I do have some cherry and amano shrimp in the tank at the moment.
I have had 1 casualty, but it was a small 1 I got sent my mail, other then that everyone seems active and I have seen a few molts.

I was thinking of adding 5 green neons on Tuesday. I currently don't have any fish.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That all sounds good and that everything is going to plan.

There is always a risk adding fish but I would't think the green neons would be much of a threat to the baby shrimp, they may get the odd one IF they are lucky enough but that's natural enough! I had green neons with my red cherry shrimps some years ago, and it will give the tank movement in the otherwise empty mid water level.  I currently have a few neon and ember tetras with the red cherry shrimp.

Water changes tend to encourage molting and the shrimp love the new water, it brings them out and they swim about, I guess it is the equivalent of rain in the wild?

Fingers crossed it continues to go to plan!

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, DEL 707 said:

I was thinking of adding 5 green neons

When adding companion fishes with shrimp, you have to take into account the temperature requirements of both.

Shrimp like it at a cool 22-23degC. Ideally, your fish should also be suitable for that sort of temperature range.

Tetras are going to like it a lot warmer. 

Just saying, not that you can't do it. But later down the track, you might be wondering why the tetra's are not doing that well, if you keep temps to the shrimps liking.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As JayC states it will be a balancing act with the temperature. I think the tetras I have in about 24 degrees and the betta about 26 degrees and the red cherrys are ok in both of those? Tanks will go above that sometimes in summer of coarse, though as long as it doesn't get to 30 degrees (very rare here, for water temperature) they seem to cope ok!.

I think the bee shrimp are more fussy but I don't keep fish with them anyway.

Simon

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...