Jump to content

Taiwan Bee shrimp compatibility

Recommended Posts


Hello folks,

I am aiming to have a mixed medley shrimp tank of Taiwan bee shrimp, sort of like what Simon has.  However, I want to minimize the number of "reject" hybridized shrimp that are either mono-color, or have weak colors and lots of clear patches.  My understanding is that as long as you mix Taiwan bee, you will get other Taiwan bee.  However, if you mix with CRS, you get these reject "mischlings" and if you mix with Tiger, you get the Taitibee that will end up having a lot of clear patches.

I finally found a local breeder that has a bunch of these shrimp.  (I don't want to deal with shrimp in the mail)  Anyway, I got a pair of juvenile blue bolts and a pair of red wine panda, which is vaguely similar to Simon's initial mix.  I'm not in a hurry to have an overgrown colony, but for genetic diversity reasons, is starting off with only 4 shrimp enough?

Secondly, here's a partial list of other (reasonably priced) shrimp that this guys sells.  Are these "compatible" with my current shrimp in the sense of not getting reject offspring?

Yellow King Kong, Black King Kong, Black Belly Pinto, blue shadow mosura

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't help but wonder if I might know the person who has those shrimp.

Based on the information you gave, I'd say to stay clear of the YKK's. They are believed to be TT hybrids although no one knows what species originally went into making them. They do pop up occasionally in mixed tanks. (at least the phenotype)

Beyond that... well, I honestly don't know enough to give any input!

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great news you have made a good start.

I have had mine for a year or more now and I don't have any (never have had) with any clear patches or weak colour, though some of the patterns are a bit funky on some and some keepers would consider them to cull I suspect but I still like them as 'variety is the spice of life' after all? You may get some all reds or all blacks but they are called king kongs so still taiwan bee. Anyway, I guess the photos speak for themselves so you have seen what I have.

I am no expert by all means but I would stick to ONLY taiwan bees to avoid any of the colour/clear issues, and as zoidberg says, I a not sure about Yellow king kong so would avoid those!

I am getting a few which look half taiwan bee and half Pinto so bear that in mind if you get some of the pinto ones, but again they are fully coloured like the taiwan bee but obviously you may get some funky ones so that is a question you need to ask yourself. I have some blue mosura in my tank as well. I would maybe get a couple of the black shrimps and go from there???


ps in case anyone else is wondering about the shrimp of mine Beanbag is talking about, their are pictures in the gallery ref  'sdlTBfanUK'.


  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • CurleyJones321
      Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:-

      Small tank
      TDS - 232
      Temp - 23C
      PH - 7
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - 1PPM
      N02 - 0.05PPM
      P04 - 2PPM
      dKH - 2
      dGH - 6

      Large Tank
      TDS - 237
      Temp - 24C
      PH - 5.5
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - Unreadable
      N02 - Unreadable
      P04 - 1PPM
      dKH - 1
      dGH - 5

      So the Phosphate is up but thats because i was massively invasive in the tanks and churned up the fertaliser i have in the tank substrate. The PH is also what i would consider to be completely off

      also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth.

      i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone  before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip.

      that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
    • Myola
      So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp.  I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas?