Jump to content

Nitrate/Nitrite tester strips


sdlTBfanUK

Recommended Posts

I have used these tester strips for years, as the drop sets are way too faffy for me, I tried the drops once and then binned the set???? I can't guarantee how accurate they are. On the linked website they do free 'worldwide' delivery from the UK!

http://www.viresco-uk.com/onlineshop/asppages/defaultsearch.asp?product=kits

DSC00135.JPG

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Liquid test strips that aren't expired with clean test tubes are always likely to be more accurate than test strips that could accidentally accumulate moister even when kept in in the little containers they come in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are probably right that the drop tests are better otherwise people wouldn't use the drop tests as they are such a faff.

These test strips come individually sealed in some kind of flat metal sleeve that you have to tear open to get the test strip out, so no worries about any moisture getting to the test strip before use!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the nitrite test pretty easy! Nitrate is only a little more complicated.

On average, people who have used both have found that the liquid test kits are more reliable, however even the liquid tests can be wrong. Some people are colorblind so the API test kits can be difficult to read. Some people prefer Seachem, Sera or Nutrafin tests.


I haven't used the test strips, but looking at the "All In One" test strips and how to read them, especially when it comes to GH and KH, I'd rather have the accuracy of the liquid test kits. ?

Edited by Zoidburg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Liquid tests are generally much more accurate and are harder to mess up when testing. I know the test strips seem easier but there can be a whole bunch of factors that Change the final result. If you rest your test strip on a bench it can pick up water molecules on the bench and end up testing that. Liquid tests also last much longer. I personally use API and have never had any problems other than getting the tab off the box to open it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Every time I have ever gone into a store to buy the test strips, the salesmen talk me out of it.  It is almost like no one believes in the product - so what's the point of them even existing?  Liquid test is certainly more accurate way to go.

Edited by Flaviotown2
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Flaviotown2 said:

test strips,

they have their use cases. But usually only when liquid test kits are not easily accessible.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How do you guys feel in general about bringing your water in somewhere to be tested - should I always trust the results I am getting back?  Sometimes I think they are trying to sell some product....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Flaviotown2 said:

should I always trust the results I am getting back?

Always ask to see the result/test tube and colour match it to the chart.

You have no obligation to buy anything just for a water test. You might, based on the result, but don't be pressured.

Especially if they charge to do a water test. In that case you are already paying for a service.

 

I always recommend a minimum test kit for any aquarist which includes:

GH & KH test kit

pH test kit,

Ammonia test kit and 

a TDS meter.

You should have these at your own disposal. Especially the TDS meter. I use this the most, and find it the most useful out of all my kit for a quick 'rough" indication of the tank's parameters. I wrote an extensive article on TDS you might find interesting here ... 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You would have to judge tha reliability yourself based upon the business/person who does the tests.

Al these test kits/equipment are readily available and not expensive to buy so it makes more sense to buy the testers so you always have them on hand (as per JayC comment) and the kits/equipment can be used multiple times (they are not single test usage). Also, as JayC, the one I use most (and is the easiest to use) is the TDS meter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
×
×
  • Create New...