Jump to content

Fluval Plant LED 2.0 (32w)


Zebra

Recommended Posts

Hello, 

Recently one of the HO-T5 lights on my 4ft tank stopped working.

This was the second time I had to get a replacement, the first one caught on fire randomly.... it was part of my nightmare with that 4ft tank before I sumped it etc. they were very dark times for planted aquaria lol. Anyway.

I have been upgrading to LEDs anyway and didn't want to just grab the same light again, so I ended up using my store credit to grab this 32w Fluval 2.0 LED light for my 2ft shrimp tank.

Just to clarify it's a bit out of my price range and I probably wouldn't have forked out the $300 or so upfront, But yeah I had store credit and all that.

Im very Impressed with it. 

It has blue only, and white 7500k mode which iMO looks more on the red end of the spectrum.

Its fully dimmable,  but doesn't come with an instruction manual, someone on FB told me how to dim it lol you just hold the button in, haha who would have thought? 

The light unit itself is a solid black aluminium, with strong sliding arms also made of aluminium. It's a nice solid feeling unit that has a bit of heft to it -which I like in any product. The arms slide from 61cm to 85cm.

Its wifi compatible, but you need to buy a module for it, then you can operate it from your smart phone-I'm not hugely interested in these features personally but your supposed to be able to change the color spectrum etc from your smart phone. 

So this is a massive upgrade from the diy led floods I used to have over my RCS tank, and I will update as to how the plants like it over the coming weeks.

Would be dope if I could afford one for my 4ft haha. But the 4ft model Is like $5-600. Sad face

This is the most expensive light I've owned to date lol. 

Also has a 3 year warranty and the packaging has QC stickers "Hagen" "Fluval" are literally written all over it.

 

Negatives: 

Didnt come with an instruction manual.

The packaging implies that its wifi compatible with everything in the box. Then you read the fine print and find out you need to purchase a seperate controller.

Nothing that matters really lol.

I walked away from there very happy.

 

IMG_1263.JPG

IMG_1268.JPG

IMG_1270.JPG

IMG_1271.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been feeding them lots of good veges and stuff lately so it's hard to say but I think this light is really starting to bring out their color more. They are still on the mend after being sold sick cherries that infected my tanks. But I've lost none of my original red colony so that's a good sign.

IMG_1279.JPG

Edited by Zebra
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

That tank grew out great, I ended up selling the tank, waiting now for a new 2ft for this light to go on, it's temporarily over my 5ft ATM- just on the lowest setting- great light plants love these.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thats a great photo, beautiful blue bolt, I hope it survived the molt without dropping the eggs! I think I can just about see some black dots (eyes) on the central egg but can't be 100% sure. I used to (and plan to again) do weekly water change of 10-15% but if you do too large or quick (not drip in new water) that would likely trigger a molt. What KH are they in, my new setup is sitting at (and refusing to budge) KH 3 and PH 7.5 so I may have to settle for neocaridina shrimp this time as opposed to the caridina I want, though not looking/deciding just yet, give the tank a bit more of a run in! Tap water here starts at kH 14, tds 320, when filtered goes to KH 0 and PH 6 but when put in the tank keeps going to KH3 and PH 7.5 despite 3 x 50% water changes???? You may be at 'maximum capacity' with only 20L tank especially if the tank is a cube type rather than shallow type?
    • beanbag
      Right now this tank only has blue bolts and golden bee (red bolts?).  The eggs start off all brown, but at the end, I notice that some are kind of a clear pink-ish color.  So I don't know if that is the egg color of dud or golden bee.  Picture of shrimp only about half hour before molting. The water is always RO + remineralizer, so it should be ok. The tank seems to still be on a "good streak" ever since I started the regimen of weekly water change, monthly gravel vac and plant trim.  The point being to keep the amount of waste low and removing moss / floating plants so that the nitrates go towards growing algae.  At one point, I had three berried females, but only netted about half dozen babies by the end, due to this early molting problem.  There might be about 30-40 shrimp total in 5 gallons, but still very few full-sized adults.
    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
×
×
  • Create New...