Jump to content

Need help. Cherry shrimps dying but dont know why.


Romez

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I need help urgently. I have bought a healthy batch of shrimp a week ago and placed them in my cycled tank. I initially had 8 but three of them died within the week. Two of them being crystal bees. I don't know why they are dying as my ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are zero and my oxygen level is 5 mg. The pH of my tank is 6.4 which is supposed to be okay for shrimp. As I live in Birmingham, UK, the tap water is soft. I am also using API stress coat (+ aloe vera) to dechlorinate and detoxify heavy metals. I have a fluval chi filter and the tank is set at 22 degrees celcius/ 71 degrees farenheit. I occasionally feed my shrimp Hikari shrimp cuisine. Before they arrived I did a 10% water change a couple of times to remove a bit of algae, however I haven't changed the water for 5 days.

I don't know if they are dying from a failed molt but they tend to stay still for a long period of time before lying on their side and dying.

I have also spotted 1cm white round worms wriggling on my sand but I doubt they are any problem.

 

Can someone inform me on why a shrimp may die under these conditions? I don't think its due to age as the juveniles died first and the adults are still alive.

Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crystal bees are not the same species as cherry shrimp....

 

You're problem could be due to soft water. If juveniles are dying first, this could be a stronger lead to your water being an issue.

 

Do you know what the GH and KH of the water is?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try to find out the TDS as well.

The problem seems to be failed moulting issues. That's the most common issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is due to failing molts and maybe low oxygen. I increased the oxygen in my tank now and the cherries are more active. If my GH is low, should I add more calcium ? And isn't soft water supposed to be good for the shrimp?

Thanks for the reply

Ive ran out of tests to check GH and KH. But my Pond water, which has the same water as my tank, has a GH of 20 and KH of 0.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Romez said:

If my GH is low, should I add more calcium ?

I wouldn't recommend adding JUST calcium - you might end up raising your pH and then having a very hard time bringing it back down because it'll act as a buffer. 

I think you're supposed to use a remineralizer like Salty Shrimp - Bee Shrimp Mineral (but I'm relatively new to shrimp, so get a second opinion!).  But you'd need to know the TDS before trying such things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The water parameters forum has some threads with information for dealing with the various mineral parameters. Like adding calcium and magnesium and I think calculating how much you need of each? (as well as finding out much is already in the water)

Though several of those threads have some weird formatting problems. (I guess there was a forum change/upgrade between when they were written and now).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Romez said:

Ive ran out of tests to check GH and KH. But my Pond water, which has the same water as my tank, has a GH of 20

GH of 20 would be your problem of moulting failure.

The shrimp prefer something like 5-6 GH.

Why is your GH so high? That is not soft water, that's harddd water. Is this your tap water? Please try testing your tap water parameters again, and let us know what it is from the source.

Do not add any more calcium, magnesium or fertilisers, until you have dealt with that GH.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Totally agree with @jayc that's very hard water bordering on almost liquid rock. Note that the water treatments available for de chlorinating water can and does harden water due to the magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) in the treatment to keep it from spoiling. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 29 September 2016 at 2:23 AM, Romez said:

Hi all

I need help urgently. I have bought a healthy batch of shrimp a week ago and placed them in my cycled tank. I initially had 8 but three of them died within the week. Two of them being crystal bees. I don't know why they are dying as my ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are zero and my oxygen level is 5 mg. The pH of my tank is 6.4 which is supposed to be okay for shrimp. As I live in Birmingham, UK, the tap water is soft. I am also using API stress coat (+ aloe vera) to dechlorinate and detoxify heavy metals. I have a fluval chi filter and the tank is set at 22 degrees celcius/ 71 degrees farenheit. I occasionally feed my shrimp Hikari shrimp cuisine. Before they arrived I did a 10% water change a couple of times to remove a bit of algae, however I haven't changed the water for 5 days.

I don't know if they are dying from a failed molt but they tend to stay still for a long period of time before lying on their side and dying.

I have also spotted 1cm white round worms wriggling on my sand but I doubt they are any problem.

Can someone inform me on why a shrimp may die under these conditions? I don't think its due to age as the juveniles died first and the adults are still alive.

Thank you.

@Romez just a shot in the dark check what you are feeding your shrimp, recently I lost 30-50 CRS babies around 6 weeks old and as you I was baffled as my parameters are constantly maintained and are correct. Today I decided to recheck everything still no change then I read the ingredients in the foods again no problem with the food from @newbreed however I have also been supplementing food from my fish "tropical brand" a great brand for all my fish however there is E4 Copper in this food even the shrimp sticks have this flake, sinking pellets everything has this copper E4 in it so finally I'm thinking finally I have found the cause of these deaths as they were still small there bodies would have been eaten before morning. 

@newbreed please take note I've been asking for this food from you if you could get it, I think I may steer clear of this for my shrimp even the shrimp sticks have E4 copper in them, thanks.

Reminder to all, it's been said by others previously on this forum, READ everything before using it for your shrimp, again I have learnt the hard way.

Edited by zn30
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to go and look this up, for those where labeling may differ E4 copper is chelated copper.

 

Do you know what copper compounds are and are not safe for shrimp? Invertebrates and some other animals have copper based "blood" and do need a teeny tiny extremely small amount to be healthy (they are also more susceptible to copper because they are designed to absorb it). I would imagine not all copper compounds are deadly in excess but I don't know the chemistry involved either way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3 October 2016 at 2:14 AM, bluestarfish said:

I had to go and look this up, for those where labeling may differ E4 copper is chelated copper.

Do you know what copper compounds are and are not safe for shrimp? Invertebrates and some other animals have copper based "blood" and do need a teeny tiny extremely small amount to be healthy (they are also more susceptible to copper because they are designed to absorb it). I would imagine not all copper compounds are deadly in excess but I don't know the chemistry involved either way.

Not sure what copper compounds as the labels don't break it down more than stating E4 which is safe level for consumption, as they state. Spinach, kale etc have copper, natural copper some may say, I use these for my shrimp as its not processed so one would think better for the shrimp. Sorry can't shed more light on the copper risk however the forum has a write up I'll look for it and direct you to it when found, if found.

Merged

Go to the search cell at the top where you find the folders for the forum and type in Copper it will show every topic containing Copper, there are a lot to trawl through as you will see there is some concerns and some that support the use of copper.

Edited by zn30
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • ngoomie
      Alright, I've done a bit more research on gentian violet's cancer-causing potential but I haven't yet done research on malachite green's to compare. But from reading the California propositon 65 document about GV (North Americans incl. some Canadians will recognize this as the law that causes some products they buy to be labelled with "known to the state of California to cause cancer", including the exact product I bought) it seems that the risk of cancer is related to internal use, either injection or ingestion. Speaking of ingestion, I think GV bans mainly relate to its use in treating fish/shrimp/etc. which are intended for human consumption, because of the above. And in countries where GV isn't banned for this purpose, it does seem to get used on various species of shrimp without causing any issue for the shrimp themselves (at least enough so for shrimp farming purposes). See the following: In February, the FDA Began Rejecting Imported Shrimp for Gentian Violet and Chloramphenicol (2022 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) FDA Starts New Calendar Year by Refusing Antibiotic-Contaminated Shrimp from Three BAP-Certified Indian Processors and Adding a BAP-Certified Vietnamese Processor to Import Alert (2024 article by Southern Shrimp Alliance) Southern Shrimp Alliance and some other organizations have tons of other articles in this vein, but I'd be here for a while and would end up writing an absolutely massive post if I were to link every instance I found of articles mentioning shrimp shipments with gentian violet and/or leucogentian violet registering as contaminants. That being said, I know shrimp farmed for consumption and dwarf shrimp are often somewhat distantly related (in fact, the one time a shrimp's species name is listed that I can see, it's the prawn sp. Macrobrachium rosenbergii, who at best occupies the same infraorder as Neocaridina davidi but nothing nearer), but this at least gives a slightly better way of guessing whether it will be safe for aquarium dwarf shrimp or not than my bladder snail anecdote from the OP.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would hazard a guess that perhaps those eggs were unfertilized and thereby unviable? Did the eggs change colour, usually yellow to grey as the yolks used up, or any eyes in the eggs. Is your water ok, using RO remineralised and the parameters in range, as I have heard others say that if the water isn't good it can 'force' a molt? How is it going overall, do you have a good size colony in the tank, you may have reached 'maximum occupancy' as a tank can only support so many occupants.
    • beanbag
      Hello folks,  The current problem I am having is that my Taiwan bee shrimp are molting before all their eggs have hatched.  Often the shrimp keep the eggs for 40+ days.  During that time, they lose about half or so, either due to dropping or duds or whatever.  Shortly before molting they look to have about a dozen left, and then they molt with about half a dozen eggs still on the shell.  Then the other shirmp will come and eat the shell.  These last few times, I have been getting around 0-3 surviving babies per batch.  I figure I can make the eggs hatch faster by raising the water temperature more (currently around 68F, which is already a few degrees higher than I used to keep it) or make the shrimp grow slower by feeding them less (protein).  Currently I feed Shrimp King complete every other day, and also a small dab of Shrimp Fit alternating days.  Maybe I can start alternating with more vegetable food like mulberry?  or just decrease the amount of food?
    • ngoomie
      Yeah, cancer risk was a thing I'd seen mentioned a lot when looking into gentian violet briefly. I kinda just figured it might only be as bad as the cancer risk of malachite green as well, but maybe I should look into it more. I've been doing a pretty good job of not getting it on my skin and also avoiding dunking my unprotected hands into the tank water while treating my fish at least, though. Maybe I'll just not use it once I'm done this course of medication anyways, because I know a store I can sometimes get to that's pretty distant carries both malachite green and methylene blue, and in pretty large quantities.
    • jayc
      Can't help you with Gentian Violet, sorry. It is banned in Australia violet for potential toxicity, and even possible cancer risks. I thought it was banned in Canada as well. At least, you now know why there isn't much info on gentian violet medication and it's use. But keep an eye on the snails after a week. If it affects the snails, it might not kill them immediately. So keep checking for up to a week. Much safer options out there. No point risking your own life over unsafe products.
×
×
  • Create New...