Jump to content
Pedro

Help to identify heath issue

Recommended Posts

jayc
1 hour ago, Pedro said:

no deaths since the start of the treatment

That's great news. Sounds like it was a success.

So did you end up using JBL Furanol?

We don't get any JBL products in Australia. Don't know why.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pedro
15 hours ago, jayc said:

That's great news. Sounds like it was a success.

So did you end up using JBL Furanol?

We don't get any JBL products in Australia. Don't know why.

Lets hope so! :) I just want to see the rust markings go away to be sure now. 

Yes the product name was JBL Furanol 250 (Furanol 2 was renamed or something).

I also don't get JBL products in Portugal anymore, my friend told me he got them from a Spanish Online Store.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
7 hours ago, Pedro said:

 I just want to see the rust markings go away to be sure now. 

Does the instructions say anything about doing a repeat treatment ?

if not you should do another dose one week after the first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pedro
4 hours ago, jayc said:

Does the instructions say anything about doing a repeat treatment ?

if not you should do another dose one week after the first.

Yes it says it can be repeated the 7th day if the problem persists. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
3 hours ago, Pedro said:

Yes it says it can be repeated the 7th day if the problem persists. 

 

Repeat it!

even if you don't see it. Your eyes cannot see bacteria.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pedro
7 hours ago, jayc said:

Repeat it!

even if you don't see it. Your eyes cannot see bacteria.

 

Yes today got some sad news, the berried tiger died, she had no rust marks nor anything. Nitrates were around 15mg/litter, could be it and the stress of being berried or she was just sick. Now I'll try to hatch the eggs artificially.

I will repeat treatment and increase a bit the dosage (it was also said it could be done in the instructions, instead of 2 tablets per 50 litter i could use 2 per 25 litter)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pedro

Ok second dose of treatment is almost over but I bring sad news about the tank with the Pinto Shrimp. 

Besides the female in fig1 that died before the second dosage I lost a red tiger female and a young tiger today. The pinto is more or less in the same situation I don't see improvements nor is condition getting worst. 

Fig1:

5lo1n7.jpg

Pinto:

2drevj9.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pedro

Little update:

On the pinto tank one of the Blue bolts got berried not sure what to think after the tiger that got berried died. 

Went to the vet and they only found Oxytetracicline as an eye ointment not on pills. At this point I'm getting more and more to the point where I want to sterilize my tanks, heaters, filters and nets with bleach, get new substrate and restart all my colonies but I started noticing something, most online shops with Taiwan Bee shrimp photos has some shrimps with those same markings except I edited my photos increasing the light a bit to be better show the markings so I'm starting to guess this is totally normal and is not a disease. Could it be? Should I see some eroded zones on their shell?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
    • Myola
      So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp.  I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas? 
    • jayc
      It must have been an aluminium heatsink. The Indium in Liquid metal will eat through aluminium. Only copper or nickel plated heatsinks can be used with liquid metal. It says so on the packet, at least my pack of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut does.
×