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    How to - Turn a cheap net into one that functions like an expensive net.

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    What makes a good shrimp net?

    It can be materials, price, function, does it catch shrimp successfully?

    I've used had many shrimp nets, and the best ones, that actually catch shrimp easily, are the ones whose net stays open and forms a little cup that does not scare the shrimp into swimming the other way when you try to catch them. Because it is not obstructed and looks like an escape route, the shrimp just seem to swim right in.

    3D-net_zps90ab3d55.jpg

    Unlike soft, floppy nets, that look like a barrier. These nets don't have enough stiffness to keep the net open.

    IMG_7432Medium_zpsd7564bf6.jpg

    The solution?

    A cable tie cut into the appropriate length to keep the net open.

    IMG_7433Medium_zps08014c3e.jpg

    Carefully place it into the net like so ...

    IMG_7437Medium_zps7012736c.jpg

    IMG_7435Medium_zpsb2ce08d4.jpg

    IMG_7436Medium_zps6f11ae2c.jpg

    There you have it.

    A $2 net that will now catch shrimp like the $30 one I have.

    Jayc.

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    Awesome stuff, can't wait to read the articles that get written! Come on people, gotta be in it to win it! :D

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    Can we submit an old "how to" article that has never been entered jn a comp or it has to be new?

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    I don't see an issue so long as it works within the rules of the competition.

    Just have another read through these just to be sure.

    Remember the main idea is to get new content into the library.

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    I can't wait to read the entries, hopefully we get alot.

    Cheers mick

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    If your article is already listed in the Library or has been entered in previous Library competition, then I would say no.

     

    Otherwise, if it meets the criteria set out in the rules, then please submit it.

     

    Looking forward to reading these articles. :thumbsu:

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    If your article is already listed in the Library or has been entered in previous Library competition, then I would say no.

     

    Otherwise, if it meets the criteria set out in the rules, then please submit it.

     

    Looking forward to reading these articles. :thumbsu:

     

    Ok gotcha.

    They aren't library articles.

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    I'll start off with a small simple "How to"

     

    How to - Turn a cheap net into one that functions like an expensive net.

     

    What makes a good shrimp net?

    It can be materials, price, function, does it catch shrimp successfully?

     

    I've used had many shrimp nets, and the best ones, that actually catch shrimp easily, are the ones whose net stays open and forms a little cup that does not scare the shrimp into swimming the other way when you try to catch them. Because it is not obstructed and looks like an escape route, the shrimp just seem to swim right in.

     

    3D-net_zps90ab3d55.jpg

     

    Unlike soft, floppy nets, that look like a barrier. These nets don't have enough stiffness to keep the net open.

     

    IMG_7432Medium_zpsd7564bf6.jpg

     

     

    The solution?

    A cable tie cut into the appropriate length to keep the net open.

     

    IMG_7433Medium_zps08014c3e.jpg

     

    Carefully place it into the net like so ...

     

    IMG_7437Medium_zps7012736c.jpg

     

    IMG_7435Medium_zpsb2ce08d4.jpg

     

    IMG_7436Medium_zps6f11ae2c.jpg

     

    There you have it.

    A $2 net that will now catch shrimp like the $30 one I have.

     

    Jayc.



    This post has been promoted to an article
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    Thanks Squiggle and Newbreed.

    I actually use it more than the round expensive net.

    Round shaped nets aren't as effective. Whereas a square shape really fits right into the corners of a tank. With a round net in a square tank, there are still gaps for the buggers to escape!

     

    It's such a simple and effective and CHEAP DIY product. I should copyright it's design.

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    jayc

    Posted (edited)

    Submitting an article I wrote a while ago. You might have already read it, but it's one I think would be good library material.

    It's an article about edible flowers for shrimps.

     

    Article - Edible Flowers for Shrimps

     

    We have been discussed and talked about feeding shrimp leaves and fruits on many occasions. And the results are quite well documented in the use of leaves like Mulberry, Oak, Indian Almond (Kattapa), etc.
    However, the idea of feeding shrimp flowers is still very new. After all in the wild, things like leaves, twigs, branches AND flowers all drop into rivers where native shrimps will use a food source.

    In terms of nutritional value, you will find nutrients and minerals in flowers that are lacking in leaves (and vice versa).
    I'll expand on one of the main benefits of a nutrient found in flowers that aren't present in leaves a bit later.

    HOWEVER, NOT ALL FLOWERS ARE SAFE FOR EATING.

     

    So we will start with those flowers that are known to be edible.
    Of course that are literally hundreds of varieties of edible flowers. We all know about cauliflower and broccoli, those are some common flowers we eat regularly.

    My experiment is limited to what I could source close by.
    The flowers I tested on my shrimp include Rose, Nasturtium, Dandelion, Chrysanthemum and Pansies.
    Caveat: I KNOW for sure that these flowers in my backyard have not been sprayed with anything else apart from tap water and rain. No pesticides, fertilisers. If in doubt, DON'T use it.

    You could try other flowers that are easily sourced in your garden.
    But please note - I have limited my research and experiments to flowers only. Not the leaves of these flowers. As a cautionary warning, some leaves are sappy and oily, and might not be too safe to feed your shrimp. So I take no responsibility with the leaves of these flowers. Although, Ineke has fed Nasturtium leaves to her shrimp which they seem to like and was safe as mentioned in another thread.

     

    Preparation:
    1) Pick fresh looking flowers with no visible damage. Select flowers that you KNOW have no previous pesticides or fertilisers, and don't grow down stream from sources of water that might be contaminated.
    2) Gently wash them (flowers are very delicate and soft) if there is dirt on them. 
    3) Remove as much of the base of the flower (the stem, receptacle and sepal). Usually only the petals are what we want.
    post-3460-139909864172_thumb.jpg

    4a) Place into tank fresh. (Recommended)
    4b) Or Blanch it for 1-2 minutes in hot boiling water. Remember, flowers are soft, they don't need to be blanched for much longer. (not a necessary step).
    4c) Freezing or Drying. While it's possible to freeze or dry flowers for storage and feeding at a later date, I'm not sure what nutrients will be lost.

    5) Ensure any decayed leftovers are removed if left uneaten after a few days.

     

    Review of the flowers:
    I have searched high and low in the scientific literature for quantitative data on the nutrient content of flower petals. There are relatively few references, particularly in English.

    Most of the literature is focused on evaluating flowers for their sensory characteristics, such as appeal, size, shape, colour, taste, and above all, aroma, which is important for the cosmetic and perfume industry.

    Available data on a number of edible flowers show that petals also contain an array of vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamins A and C, various B vitamins, folic acid, and minerals including calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron and phosphorus.

    Apart from the nutritional value of flowers with the abundance of vitamins and minerals, flowers also contain a huge amounts of carotenoids and flavonoids compared to leaves. Specifically, Crytoxanthin, Zeaxanthin and Lutein which is obviously lacking in the leaves. Just look at the pretty colours of flowers.

    Zeaxanthin and Lutein has been known as a natural source of colour enhancement in fish (and maybe shrimp). These carotenoids are regularly added to fish food from sources like spirulina. Zeaxanthin enhances the Reds and Oranges while Lutein enhances Yellows.

    Flowers are also high in antioxidants, they are antiseptic, antifungal and anti-inflammatory. This sounds too good to be true. It's like feeding medicine to your shrimps to fight viruses and bacteria.

     

     

    On to the review of specific flowers.

    Dandelions:

    post-3460-139909864174_thumb.jpg
    Say what?! That's a weed!
    It sure is, and I have heaps growing in my front garden. Now I have a use for them.
    Dandelion is a perennial plant with jagged, bright green leaves to 30cm long, a hollow flower stem to 30cm and one terminal yellow daisy. Has been subject of many studies investigating it's ability to even fight cancer!

    Dandelions, contain numerous flavonoids and carotenoids with antioxidant properties, including four times the beta carotene of broccoli, as well as lutein, cryptoxanthin and zeaxanthin. They are also a rich source of vitamins, including folic acid, riboflavin, pyroxidine, niacin, and vitamins A, B, C and D. Minerals including iron, potassium and zinc.

    The rich yellow colour of dandelion flowers comes from beta-carotene - Lutein specifically.

    Side note: the leaves are apparently also really high in Calcium (187mg per 100g), rivalling Mulberry leaves. But I have not tried feeding Dandelion leaves, nor do I know if they are safe. But people eat them. The Chinese, European and Native American have been using the dandelion plant for centuries to treat digestive, kidney and liver ailments.

    I fed my shrimp a fresh dandelion as one experiment. The first day in the tank, the shrimp investigated it, but didn't seem to be eating. It wasn't till the 3 day that I noticed them actually munching on the flower. The petals probably needed to soften first.

    The second experiment was with a blanched dandelion. This time the shrimp took to it the same day. And average sized flower was consumed within 3-4 days in my tank.

    Verdict: Big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps.

     

     

    Nasturtiums:
    post-3460-13990986417_thumb.jpg
    Nasturtium is a PERENNIAL growing to 0.5 m (1ft 8in) by 1 m (3ft 3in). It is part of the Watercress family. The most common variety is Tropaeolum majus. The peppery flowers are good in salads and pasta dishes.
    A 2009 study by the Universidad Nacional de Colombia identified the group of phenols or phenolic compounds in the pigments of orange and red flowers of Tropaeolum majus as anthocyanins. Anthocyanins, which are abundant in blueberries and red cabbage, help naturalize the damaging effects of free radicals, thereby helping to protect us from chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease and cancer. Anthocyanins are anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer and antioxidant.

    Nasturtiums are high in Vitamin C, about 45 milligrams vitamin C per 100 grams, and also contain Vitamin A and flavonoids anti-oxidants like ß carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin.
    They also contain Minerals like Iron, Calcium.

    Nasturtiums might not pack as much nutritional value as dandelions, but it sounds great to feed shrimp occasionally, to combat diseases due to it's antibiotic, antiseptic, and antifungal properties.

    I fed Nasturtium flowers to my shrimp in a similar fashion to Dandelions. Fresh and Blanched.
    The shrimp had very similar reactions. They ate it when the flowers were soft.

    Verdict: Another big tick. They loved it. Too early to tell if there is any impact on colouration of the shrimps. I do have one shrimp that looks unwell. I'm keeping an eye to it to see if there are any improvements.

    I won't go into detailed reviews on the Rose, Pansies or Chrysanthemum flowers, as I couldn't find much information on it's nutritional value. But the results are very similar.

    There are dozens of other edible flowers that could be introduced to your shrimp as long as you take the necessary precautions on where you collect these flowers.

    Some other possibilities include:
    Daisies, Sunflowers, Daylilies, Violets, Tulips.

     

     

     

    Just a word of caution for anyone trying.

    Please stick to flowers we know are edible. If in doubt check this list.
    http://www.westcoast...edible-flowers/

     

     

    Many flowers have antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities.
    If you have suspected recent bacterial issues with your shrimps lately, try feeding flowers and report back on your findings.
    These are some, and by no means the only, flowers that exhibit antiseptic, antibacterial and antifungal qualities:-
    Basil flowers, Bee Balm (Bergamot) flowers, Borage flowers, Echinacea flowers, Pot Marigold flowers, Chamomile flowers, Chrysanthemums flowers, Garlic flowers, Nasturtiums flowers, Onion flowers, Oregano flowers, Pansy flowers and Violet flowers.

    Please note - I am talking about the flowers here. So when you see Basil for example, that's the Basil flowers, not the leaves. Even-though the Basil leaves are edible, I cannot vouch for the leaves from some of these other flowers.

     

    If nothing else, this is another nutritious, natural food source for shrimps.

    My shrimps have shown to love eating flowers, and usually devour them within 1-2 days after placing in the tank.
    Hold the flowers down the same way you'd hold mulberry leaves or other plant foods down.

     

    While we are at it, it's probably best to name some flowers to AVOID, as these are considered poisonous.
    Primulas, Primroses, Polyanthus, Iris, Daffodils, Nghtshade, box wood, foxgloves, amaryllis, clematis, bryony, buttercups, begonia, columbine, lily of the valley, sweet pea, Brachycome, Nolana, Rudbeckia, periwinkle, oleander, dogbane, aconite.

    Edited by jayc
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    Very cool dude, loved this article when you first wrote it & it's just as informative still, loved rereading it! :thumbsu:

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    Great write ups jayc, now you need some competition.

    Cmon peeps get the entries in.

    Cheers mick

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    Every time Ben writes an article I find myself wanting something new.

    Great write up and thanks for opening my eyes to more natives.

    Cheers mick

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    OzShrimps Guide to transporting and increasing survivability of shrimp for extended periods of time.

    I utilised this method when moving house last January. I have given this as advice on the forum previously a long time ago but not written as an article. Unfortunately i didnt take photos because i was moving house but i have obtained images of the main items required and done an image in paint to explain the holes. i hope this will suffice?.

     

     

    You will require –

    ·         20 litre bucket with lid (Source from bunnings or masters) 534e66ac-23de-4d10-b643-6da5ba766deb_zps

     

    ·         Sponge filter I recommend the ones which have suction caps and a minimum of two if you go for single sponge. Optimum at least 2 dual sponge filters  spongefilters_zps436a9315.jpg

    ·         Battery operated air pump.  c26d9a42-e990-46c6-b4ef-4a438be19cb1_zps

    ·         Air hose

    ·         Drill or sharp pointed object.

    ·         Excess plants (the more the better) 7efa77a0-b44d-46c4-8d0d-86a9f1660080_zps

    ·         Ph buffering substrate.

     

    Preparation –

     

    Step  1: Ensure your sponge filters are running on your existing tank for as long as possible to ensure you have beneficial bacteria culture growing on the filters. The longer they are running the better.

     

    Step 2: Take the lid from your bucket and make holes in the lid. The holes should be big enough for your air hose to fit through one of the holes and I did the extras to ensure new air was able to enter the bucket. Mine was done in a similar pattern to this

     lidholes_zps80a6375b.jpg

     

    Step 3: Add existent tank water to the bucket. I would recommend at least 3 quarters full as if you are unfortunate enough to suffer an ammonia spike etc (worst case) the more water the lower the impact in theory. Be mindful of how much you add due to holes in the lid, the more the water the more chance of spillage.

     

    Step 4: Add some of your existing substrate to the bottom of the bucket. I used benibachi for the ph buffering ability which had already been in my tank. I felt it would assist in reducing stress due to resembling the tank.

     

    Step 5: You want to add the sponge filters to the inside of the bucket and thread your air hose through the holes in the lid.

     

    Step 6: Add any plants you have available to your bucket. The aim of the plants is to assist the bacteria on the sponge filters in maintaining healthy water due to the small amount. I utilised needle leaf java fern and it also provides a food source for the shrimp.

     

    Step 7: Add your shrimp and turn on the sponge filters and replace the lid on the bucket.

     

    Step 8: Store the bucket out of direct sunlight during travel and storage at arriving destination to prevent major fluctuations in water temperature.

     

    I had approximately 5 CBS inclusive of shrimplets in a bucket utilising this method alive for close to two weeks. They survived 8 hour car trip and then about 12 days whilst my tank cycled being set up in the new house with temperatures averaging over 35 degrees a day.

     

    TIPS: Prepare your sponge filters in the tank and have them running for as long as possible prior to transfer.

    The later you leave your shrimp to be added to the bucket the better.

    Keep your bucket out of direct sunlight to avoid over heating and mass fluctuations in water temperature.

    Avoid over feeding your shrimp as you dont want an ammonia spike from left over food. Depending on amount of plants these should be sufficient to supply micro organisms to feed on the leaves.

    Battery air pumps are also able to be used in a black out so dont throw them away.

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    Nice article dude, well done! :thumbsu:

    Thanks :) i am actually also using this setup to store my shrimp when i switch over to r/o Water

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    CNgo2006

    Posted (edited)

    I would like to enter this as it has not been put in the library or entered in any comp yet...

     

    DIY SHRIMP SAFE FILTER GUARD

     

    These can be made to fit any size tubing at the fraction of the cost of what is sold and is so very easy to make. So lets get started!

    Note: It is recommended that you use protective goggles and gloves, as frayed mesh wires can get pretty sharp.

    Here is what you will need to make the filter guard:

    *Stainless Steel Mesh sheet hole size #30 (can be purchased at the mesh company online, I got the A3 size sheet which is enough for a lot of guards!)
    *Tin snips
    *Heat Shrink (depending on the size of your tube get the heat shrink at least 5mm bigger, can be purchased eBay)
    *Heat source (Lighter, hair dryer, heat gun, etc)
    *A tube of the size required
    *Pencil, marker
    *Ruler
    *Cable ties
    *Craft knife

     

    IMAG0165-1.jpg

    Steps

    Prepare cable ties as you will need both hands free
    IMAG0167.jpg

    Cut mesh sheet to size depending on how long you want the guard and how thin the tube is (I cut mine 10cmx10cm) and wrap tightly around the tube, secure tightly with cable ties
    IMAG0168.jpg

    Cut another piece of mesh depending on the width of the mesh wrapped around tube (mine was 18mm), cut a square piece (18x18mm), place on end of mesh and bend corners over
    IMAG0174.jpg

    Cut a bit of heat shrink (mine was 2cm) and place over the mesh making sure the piece of mesh covering the end stays in place, leave about 0.5cm above.
    IMAG0175-1.jpg

    Using the heat source you are using (I just used a lighter) and heat the heat shrink until it shrinks tightly around the mesh (make sure you don't heat the same place for too long as it will melt! Just quickly run the flame over the shrink) and then quickly push the end down on a flat surface for a minute.
    IMAG0177-1.jpg

    The outcome should be something like this (you can use the craft knife to make the opening bigger if you wish)
    IMAG0178.jpg

    Now for the other end, repeat the steps above but shove the tube in instead. Leave for a minute or so.
    IMAG0173.jpg

    Remove the tube and cut the cable ties, cut a thin bit of heat shrink to place in middle of guard for extra support, heat it until tight. And there you have it, your DIY filter guard.
    IMAG0179-1.jpg

    For a fraction of the cost you can make all the filter guards needed, can be HOB, canister, overflow pipe, etc. for your 20 shrimp tanks!:encouragement:

    Cheers Chi.

    Edited by CNgo2006
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    CNgo2006

    Posted (edited)

    And my other entry

     

    DIY SHRIMP CAVES

     

    Pretty sure everyone knows how to silicone rings together so won't be a step by step tutorial

    What was used was:

    * Aquarium safe silicone or superglue
    * Ceramic rings (choose an inert one and one that has a nice hole size for the specific shrimp you are making it for) I chose Mr Aqua M size. It is inert and quite porous for extra surface area (never a bad thing). You may want to look at getting the L size if you are making for large adult shrimp.
    * Stick like a shish kebab stick to clear any obstructions that the silicone may have caused on the inside of the rings.

    They look quite nice I reckon, with moss on them will look even better!
    IMAG0844.jpg

    For around $15 you can easily make 10+ pyramids, go crazy and make them as big/small as you want, giant levelled pyramids or single logs, up to you!
    IMAG0845.jpg

    in this hobby we like to save where possible, so making these are a great way to save.


    Cheers Chi.

    Edited by CNgo2006

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    Nice work Chi, these are both great articles & I'm going to make one of the filter guards soon, just need some SS for it. :thumbsu:

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