It is important that we as a community are responsible as hobbyists. Recent threats include the white spot virus that has been found in prawns in Queensland and the possibility that the crayfish plague has been introduced to our country via exotic crays from North America that might host this fungus and that have immunity to it. For example entire crayfish populations in Europe have been decimated by this disease because only the North American crays have immunity.

It is well known that many in Australia keep and breed exotic shrimps and other creatures and in most cases this is not problematic but there are exceptions and so it is necessary that we have a handy resource on the forum that discusses this topic and provides relevant links. Australia has very strict quarantine laws; although we are allowed to keep and breed a number of different shrimps in Australia the importation of shrimp species not in the "suitable specimens for import" is extremely illegal and if you are caught you will almost certainly be handed a jail sentence.

Local fish shops will often freely take any unwanted animals (even sick ones) and there are always plenty of other hobbyists who will jump at the chance to take them as well.

Below are some simple rules that are universally applicable -

• ? Do not release any fish or invertebrate from your aquarium to nature regardless of whether it is native to the area or came from that exact place; this is because they may have acquired a disease or parasite in your aquarium/pond and you could do much more harm than good.
• ? Do not allow any of your aquarium water or other contents to enter stormwater drains or go anywhere that might find its' way into a body of water e.g. creek or lake etc. The Australian government advice is to dispose of your water down the sink/toilet.
• ? Do not bring exotic animals into the country unless they are on the approved specimens list (link is below).
• ? Do not collect wild specimens unless you have checked first that you are allowed to do so.
• ? Do humanely euthanise your animals if/when necessary. (link is at the end of the article).
• ? Do enjoy keeping aquariums and treat your animals and our natural environment with the respect they deserve.

Below are links to lists of noxious species and guides at a state and national level as well as links to RSPCA instructions for humane euthanisation

Instructions for safe disposal of aquarium contents and animals and general guide to aquatic diseases -

• http://www.agriculture.gov.au/pests-diseases-weeds/aquatic/disease_watch_aquatic_animal_health_awareness/other_aquatic_biosecurity_materials

National

• Guidelines for management of exotic fish trade including list of specimens suitable for import - http://www.environment.gov.au/biodiversity/wildlife-trade/exotics/exotic-fish-trade

A.C.T.

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NSW

• Guide / Intro: http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fishing/pests-diseases/freshwater-pests/ornamental-fish
• Full list of noxious species: http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fishing/pests-diseases/noxious-fish-and-marine-vegetation

N.T.

• Guide / Intro: https://nt.gov.au/marine/for-all-harbour-and-boat-users/aquatic-pests-marine-and-freshwater/about-aquatic-pests-and-biosecurity
• List of aquatic pests: https://nt.gov.au/marine/for-all-harbour-and-boat-users/aquatic-pests-marine-and-freshwater/list-of-aquatic-pests

SA

• Guide / Intro: http://pir.sa.gov.au/biosecurity/aquatics/aquatic_pests
• Full list of noxious species: http://pir.sa.gov.au/biosecurity/aquatics/aquatic_pests/noxious_fish_list

TAS

Tasmania has especially strict requirements regarding importation of live animals. The three links below contain lots of relevant information (Thanks to @jayc for finding these)

• http://dpipwe.tas.gov.au/biosecurity-tasmania/biosecurity/importing-animals/animals-that-can-be-imported-with-entry-requirements/freshwater-aquarium-fish
• http://soer.justice.tas.gov.au/2009/indicator/84/index.php
• https://www.ifs.tas.gov.au/about-us/fishery-management/environment-and-conservation/prohibited-activities

VIC

• Guide / Intro: http://www.fish.wa.gov.au/Sustainability-and-Environment/Aquatic-Biosecurity/Translocations-Moving-Live-Fish/Pages/Noxious-Banned-Fish.aspx
• Full list of noxious species and proposed additions list can be found here: http://www.fish.wa.gov.au/Sustainability-and-Environment/Aquatic-Biosecurity/Translocations-Moving-Live-Fish/Pages/Noxious-Banned-Fish.aspx

News article reporting on an incident of illegal shrimp importation:

http://www.couriermail.com.au/news/queensland/taiwanese-student-jailed-for-illegally-importing-crystal-red-shrimps/news-story/f735730cdafd30cfb23f319bbe29215d?sv=d06fddccb50ab7281cfc7e74da630b8f

Euthanisation Key Points / Summary:

Not everyone can bring themselves to end the lives of their own animals but regardless; if you deem it necessary to end the life of any tank inhabitants and they are not a highly illegal specimen then please dp ask your local retailer first if they might be willing to try to save them for you. If this is not an option then please see below links.

Humane euthanisation of fish:

http://kb.rspca.org.au/what-is-the-most-humane-way-to-euthanase-aquarium-fish_403.html

Humane euthanisation of crustaceans:

http://kb.rspca.org.au/What-is-the-most-humane-way-to-kill-crustaceans-for-human-consumption_625.html

disease-watch-brochure.pdf

If you are setting up a new aquarium, here is a short primer on how to set up your aquarium properly and efficiently. It may seem daunting at first, but assembling your new aquarium is easier than you think.

Get all the aquarium materials ready

First get all the aquarium materials ready by washing them thoroughly with warm water. Don’t use commercial soaps and detergents as they are toxic to fish. Stick to the most common and the simplest aquarium ornaments. Sift the gravel over a bucket and drain, repeating the process until you are sure that the gravel is debris-free.

Fill your tank with water and set up equipment

The next step in the process is to fill your tank with water. Initially fill around 30% of the tank using room temperature water. You can add the rest of the water right after the internals such as airline tubing, live or plastic plants and other ornaments are added. The air tube is an essential part of the aquarium as it helps with the oxygenation of the water. Plants are generally added to hide equipment, help with the aqua scape or simply aid in the tanks biological ecosystem. The air pump, power filter, and heater are other types of equipment that should be added.

De-chlorinate

You need to treat the water in the aquarium to remove chlorine, which is harmful to your biological filter and could be lethal to your fish. It is important not to overdose on de-chlorinators, as they can have an impact on water chemistry.

Cycle your aquarium

When an aquarium is cycled, it means that you cultivate or grow a bacteria bed in your tank, specifically in the biological filters. The filters will grow bacteria that digest ammonia which converts to nitrite, which is naturally produced and lethal to fish, shrimp, and coral. Controlling these lethal elements is done by introducing healthy nitrifying bacteria into the aquarium.

Before you add fish or shrimp, an aquarium must be cycled properly. This is called the fishless cycle. If you place all your fish or shrimp inside the aquarium without the cycling process, chances are they will probably die within a few days.

Cycling your aquarium takes time and it’s important not to rush it. In some cases, it has taken 6 – 8 weeks to properly cycle a tank.

Adding the inhabitants

Before adding your livestock, it is imperative to test the water. Specifically, the levels of ammonia and nitrite. You need to make sure that these two toxic nitrogen compounds are non-existent in the tank. Wait for two months before cleaning your new filter to allow significant growth of good nitrifying bacteria to populate.

Acclimatise the livestock

Acclimatising your livestock is a very important procedure because it helps your newly-acquired fish or shrimp adjust to their new habitat. Even a minor relocation can affect them because of changes in water parameters.

Setting up a new aquarium takes a lot of planning and patience. Just follow the basic guidelines and the recommendations in this primer, and you will find that owning an aquarium is fulfilling and enjoyable.

Common medication used in Aquariums

Comprehending the active ingredients of medication can be as important as understanding what the medication treats. Here is a list a few of the more common medication that is found in Aquarium medication.

It is probably also important to remember that friendly nitrifying bacteria aka nitrifiers, aka beneficial bacteria can also be impacted by medication. Therefore, knowing what each active ingredient does is all the more important to avoid killing off the friendly bacteria.

On the other spectrum, we have the unfriendly bacteria which are pathogenic causing bacteria.

Pathogenic bacteria are opportunistic, as long as the fish is healthy the symptoms are not perceptible. Small amounts of bacteria are always present and a healthy, stress free fish or shrimp’s immune system is able to cope with battling these harmful bacteria. It is when stressed (heat, ammonia, nitrite, high organics, low dissolved oxygen etc.) or through injury that the bacteria numbers multiply and overwhelm the bodies immunity system that we start seeing signs of disease.

This article will also cover non bacterial medications and medication used for parasites.

Hopefully the next time you pick up a bottle of medication for your pet, you will know exactly what the active ingredients do and how to apply it to use in your particular situation.

Antibiotics vs Antibacterial

There are two terms when dealing with medication that needs to be clarified.

Antibiotics are naturally produced by another organism, be it plant or animal or microorganism, that kills the pathogenic bacteria.

Antibacterial substances are manufactured artificially to combat pathogens.

We will use the term Antibiotic going forward in this article to refer to both terms.

 Which antibiotic to be used for a pathogen is determined by the pathogen’s cell wall. Pathogens have either a thin or a thick cell wall. The method of determining the main types of bacteria cell wall is a technique called Gram Staining. Where dye is used to stain the bacteria.

A blue-purple colour indicates a thick cell wall and is called “gram positive”, while a pink-red colour indicates a thin cell wall and is referred to as “gram negative”.

 Gram Positive antibiotics prevent the development and repair of the cell wall which eventually will lead to the cell content leaching out, consequently killing the bacteria.

Gram Negative antibiotics attack by interfering with the protein synthesis (metabolic process) therefore preventing the bacteria from multiplying and growing. Of the two types, Gram Negative is a lot more common in aquatic diseases.

Using the correct medication is important for the pathogen, as Gram positive antibiotics will not have any effect on gram negative bacteria and vice versa.

Keep in mind that beneficial bacteria in our aquarium that does the nitrifying are Gram Negative. Some antibiotics may also kill off beneficial bacteria, especially the gram negative medication. Using a Hospital tank for treating sick fish or shrimp is always a good idea. Separating the patient into a smaller tank has many benefits like reducing the required medication dose, reducing the impact of medication on healthy livestock (remember that sentence above about reducing stress), eliminating the risk of harming beneficial bacteria, being able to observe the progress of the treatment without trying to find the sick patient – who will often be hiding.

Refer to the article on Hospital tanks for further details.

It goes without saying that using the right medication for the disease is essential. It narrows down the treatment time and the types of medication used. This article is not about disease identification. Although we will talk about what diseases these medications will treat. The application, dosage and duration should be strictly followed according to the manufacturers instructions, including any follow up dosages, even if the fish or shrimp looks better after the first treatment. This prevents flair ups again, and reduces the pathogen’s ability to become immune to the antibiotic. The latter is probably more imperative in the long term.

The common antibiotics used in aquariums

ERYTHROMYCIN

treats gram positive bacteria. Some aquarists also recommend Erythromycin to treat cyanobacteria blooms but this should be used with caution and the cause of the cyanobacteria still needs to be addressed.

Useful for Fin and tail rot, infections attributed to kidney disease (often not true kidney infections), pop eye. Neon Tetra disease (faded colour). Black Molly disease. Most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus. And it’s this small impact on gram negative bacteria that you should be aware of, which could impact beneficial bacteria. I say could in italics because I have not experienced a tank crash personally IF correct dosages are followed.

Aminoglycosides sold as KANAMYCIN, NEOMYCIN, and STREPTOMYCIN

are active against gram negative bacteria and work well in higher pH alkaline water conditions and is therefore also used in brackish or salt water, especially for Vibrio. It is used to treat many sensitive gram–negative and some gram–positive bacteria. Works well combined with Nitrofurazone for flexibacter (columnaris) (Symptoms: Fuzzy, thin, white coating on the body and fins. Looks like a fungus), as Neomycin is not very good at treating columnaris by itself.

 Kanamycin can treat many sensitive gram–negative and some gram–positive bacteria. Works especially well in salt water aquariums. Effective for whirling disease, suspected kidney disease, pop eye and dropsy. Works well combined with Nitrofurazone for flexibacter (columnaris) and Pseudomonas-Open red sores or ulcerations, fin and tail damage, fins and tail are eaten away.

Kanamycin sulphate appears to prevent bacteria from making their cell walls, so the cells die.

Neomycin sulfate is also used in aquarium medications as a broad spectrum antibiotic used to treat bacterial infections and wounds. Some Gram-negative bacteria, and gram-positive, and possibly mycobacterium tuberculosis.

Particularly effective with notoriously resistant bacterial strains like Aeromonas, Pseudomonas and Mycobacteria. Neomycin is an excellent choice when soaked in foods for intestinal diseases. Neomycin is not absorbed by the intestinal tract and is therefore effective in treatment of intestinal diseases. But Neomycin can damage the kidneys as it is nephrotoxic, so this is a poor treatment choice for Dropsy.

Neomycin is also poor at treating fungal infections.

SULFONAMIDE

known as sulfa or triple sulfa or trisulfa – Active ingredients are Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole. Sulfas have antibacterial characteristics inhibiting the growth of bacteria but do not kill them. Sulfa drugs arrest cell growth by inhibiting the synthesis of folic acid, a component required for growth by bacteria. Folic acid is a large molecule and is unable to enter bacterial cells, so the bacteria must synthesize the compound intracellularly. Animal cells are unable to synthesize folic acid and it must be provided in the diet. For this reason sulfa drugs are not toxic to animal cells.

Sulfas are a broad spectrum antibacterial medication. Fin and tail rot, mouth fungus and collapsed fins, columnaris, and hemorrhagic septicemia. Very useful for damaged fins caused by fin nipping. Can be used in combination with Malachite Green or Acriflavin (do not combine with copper sulfate) to increase effectiveness. Sulfas are more effective in high pH or alkaline environments, so sulfonamide as well as aminoglycosides can be used in marine environments.

FURANS AND NITROFURANS

(Furazolidone, furane, nitrofurazone) are also antibacterial but will lose their potency with increasing pH levels. They are therefore preferred freshwater treatments as is the tetracycline group as they can be used in lower pH environments.

Bactericidal for some gram-positive and many gram-negative bacteria causing disease in fresh water. Often used with pond fish to treat Aeromonas infections, and can be used to treat Columnaris, Vibrio, and Furunculus.  Also effective in controlling flexibacter/columnaris. Furans are good at treating minor skin infections.

Can be used with Kanamycin for Aeromonas and Vibrio.

Do NOT use with Invertebrates or Shrimps.

Note: Nitrofurazone comes in a yellow powder and can temporarily turn the tank water yellow.

TETRACYCLINE

is bacteriostatic, that is, it inhibits bacteria from protein synthesis. It interferes with the production of proteins that the bacteria need to multiply and divide (bacteriostatic). This drug will get less effective in hard waters as it readily binds with calcium and magnesium. Gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Best used mixed in with food if your pH is above 8.0, as it will not work in pH above 8.0. Marine ulcer disease, cold water disease, bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia (Symptoms: Red streaks in body and fins, or redness in the body. Open sores or loss of scales) and mouth fungus. 

OXYTETRACYCLINE products are very similar to Tetracycline. Oxytetracycline is the second of the broad spectrum tetracycline antibiotics to be discovered. Both work to interfere with the production of proteins that the bacteria need to multiply and divide.

QUINOLONES

An antibacterial to treat gram negative bacteria, prevents DNA synthesis and can be used in a broad pH spectrum. Particularly useful on resistant strains of Ich. If your normal Ich meds don’t seem to be effective anymore, try this. Works to control Protozoan infestations, sliminess of the skin and Rams disease (whirling disease). Works great for Hexamita when combined with Metronidazole.

Non Antibiotic Medication

METHYLENE BLUE

work best to prevent fungal and bacterial infections on fish eggs before they hatch. It can also be effective against parasites like Ich and protozoans – though not as effective as the other medications mentioned.

Great when used as a dip for topical treatment of parasites, bacterial, and fungal infections.

Best used in a hospital tank rather than treating the main tank. Methylene Blue can harm beneficial bacteria, and plants in the main tank. As a result, Methylene blue is used less often to superior products like Malachite green and acriflavin.

MALACHITE GREEN

Used for it’s antiseptic properties for treatment and control of external parasites of freshwater and marine fishes. Can also be used to treat fungal infections on fish eggs which include Achlya and Saprolegnia.

Malachite green is toxic and is not safe for some sensitive fish and invertebrates however. Some research also shows that the toxicity increases in higher pH so medications with Malachite Green should be used with caution in saltwater aquariums.

Can be used on Ich, Costia, Chilodonella, Ambiphyra, Cryptocaryon, Epistylis, Trichodina, Oodinium.

Can be combined with Acriflavin or Formalin.

FORMALIN / FORMALDEHYDE

Well known as a preservative, as can be seen in the jars preserving scientific specimens. For treatment and control of the diseases caused by fungi, protozoan and monogenetic trematodes of freshwater and marine aquarium fishes. Including Ich (Ichthyophthirius). Most formaldehyde-based medications work better as a bath or dip instead of being used to treat the entire system, and any of these medications should never be used with invertebrates. DO NOT USE WITH SHRIMP.

Formalin depletes oxygen in the water, so aerate the water during treatment.

Works well combined with Malachite Green.

ISONIAZID

An antibiotic used to treat fish tuberculosis (not harmful to humans) cause by Mycobacterium marinum, gram negative bacteria. As can be seem in Discus, Bettas and Gouramis. But thankfully, fish TB is relatively uncommon. The fish is generally unwell for several months and showing signs of lethargy, anorexic. Fin or scale loss and a sunken stomach are also likely signs of fish tuberculosis. Isoniazid works in part by disrupting the formation of the bacteria's cell wall which results in cell death.

ACRIFLAVIN HYDROCHLORIDE

An antiseptic agent for the skin. Used as treatment of mild bacterial and fungal infections on fish such as mouth fungus, fin and tail rot, fungus, saproglenia. Can also be used for skin parasites such as oodinium (velvet), sliminess of skin, and very mild ich.  Acriflavine is generally used for infections based in the slime coat and skin of the fish, not for “larger” parasites like Ich or worms.

Parasitic Medications

Most parasitic medications need to be used with care, as they can be harmful to sensitive fish, and will most definitely kill inverts and shrimps.

 COPPER SULFATE

Copper has long been used as medication for parasite treatment in aquariums, especially for “Ich”, Oodinium, fungus and protozoan parasites. Sequestered sulfate copper being the active ingredient. Often you see Chelated copper as the active ingredient for some treatments. Chelated meaning “inactivated”, is often used as a safer alternative to sequestered copper.

Many algaecides also use copper to eradicate algae.

Removal of sequestered copper is difficult. Only EDTA and water changes can remove it – Carbon will not remove sequestered copper.

Seachem Cupramine is a very safe chelated formula and is the safest copper for use in the Aquarium, while also being the easiest to remove after treatment.

Being a heavy metal, Copper is NOT safe for Inverts, Shrimps or marine/reef aquariums.

METRONIDAZOLE

Metronidazole is most commonly used as an anti-parasitic medication to treat protozoan and flagellate infections. Used for Hole in the head disease HTH (hexamita), Head & Lateral Line Erosion HLLE, chilodonella, plistophora (parasite disease usually seen in neons and cardinals that causes loss of colour, darting, and eventually death), salt water ich (Cryptocaryon), bloat. Safe for many fish or shrimp that are sensitive to the copper-based alternatives. Most effective mixed with food.

 FENBENDAZOLE

Fenbendazole is predominantly a dewormer, and is used even in cattle, sheep, birds, reptiles and amphibians. Used as a treatment against internal parasites like roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, calamus worms. It can also be used to treat planaria and hydra. Fenbendazole is very effective against these parasites.

It is relatively safe with inverts and shrimps, however, there have been cases where inverts are harmed when using Fenbendazole at dosages safe for fish. In aquariums with inverts and shrimps, start with half the dosage recommended by the manufacturer. Follow up with a second half dose treatment if necessary rather than performing a full dose in one go.

POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE

Aka PP, can be very useful against external parasites, but can go very wrong if used wrongly.

PP is a deep purple colour when used, that turns progressively yellow-brown as oxidation occurs. PP is used against larger parasites like flukes, lice and anchor worms and can be used to treat the entire aquarium or, preferably, as a dip or bath. PP oxidises with air, and should be stored carefully. It also stains fingers and clothes !! As I found out accidentally.

PRAZIQUANTEL

Praziquantel is an anthelmintic or de-worming medication. And is particularly good at it. Used for gill and skin flukes, tapeworms, flat worms, anchor worms and Schistosoma (a worm that lives in the blood stream of the fish). Prazi however is not very good for treating pinworms or roundworms at all.

Prazi is safe for fish, invertebrates, plants or biological filtration and is even used as a dewormer for cats, dogs and even humans. This medication can be used in tank or soak in food. No water change is necessary, but removal of carbon and uv light is advised to maximise the medication’s usefulness.

Always complete a full course of treatment. Don’t be fooled into thinking that the fish is cured with the first dose of the treatment.

PIPERAZINE

Piperazine is a drug that belongs to the family of medicines called anthelmintics. These medicines are used in the treatment of worm infections. Where Prazi fails at treating pinworms, roundworms and nematodes - Piperazine is good at treating these type of worms. However, to be effective Piperazine needs to be ingested with food. Piperazine is heat stable, which means you can mix into food that need to be prepared hot, like agar agar.

Always complete a full course of treatment. Don’t be fooled into thinking that the fish is cured with the first dose of the treatment.

LEVANISOLE HYDROCHLORIDE (HCL)

is another anthelmintic (anti-worm) agent  commonly used in large livestock such as cattle, pigs and sheep – and more recently fish. Levamisole HCL is safe to use in aquaria and effective against many internal parasites, especially nematodes, when used in appropriate dosages. Roundworms, Hookworms, and Nematodes species such as Capillaria, Eustronggylides, Camallanus, and Contracaecum are treated by Levamisole HCL.

It does not harm the bio-filter, plants, invertebrates or uninfected fish.

Levamisole HCL is ineffective for Tapeworms, flatworms or flukes. Use Praziquantel for those.

Levamisole HCL is most effective when absorbed through the gut, which means treating the food you feed the fish. Some medication can be absorbed by the skin from the water as well, and Levamisole HCL is stable enough in the water for up to 90 days to do it’s job. Levamisole affects the neurotransmitters and paralyses the worm (spastic paralysis). The fish then passes the inactive worms. Good gravel vacuuming is advised after treatment to remove the paralysed (but still live) worms.  It is not ovicidal, which means it will not affect eggs already present, but it will affect the larval stage of the worm. To ensure complete eradication of the parasite treat again after remaining eggs have hatched. Treatment in a hospital tank is advised strongly. The hospital tank can be sterilised after treatment thoroughly.

Levamisole HCL is light sensitive.

Store product in tightly closed light resistant containers. Leave off tank lights when treating. Levamisole HCL is a safe and effective anthelmintic for use in aquariums. It does not harm the biofilter, plants or invertebrates including shrimp.

Always complete a full course of treatment. Don’t be fooled into thinking that the fish is cured with the first dose of the treatment.

TRICHLORFON

Trichlorfon aka Dylox, is usually used in freshwater aquariums or ponds, as it degrades rapidly in high pH, reef aquarium water.

Primarily used to treat parasites like: Hydra, Lernia (Anchor Worms), Parasitic Copepods, Monodigenetic and Digenetic Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus), Leeches.

Trichlorfon is very highly toxic to invertebrates.

DO NOT USE ON FISH THAT ARE CHEMICALLY SENSITIVE such as: Silver Dollars, Rays, Bala Sharks, Arowanas, Tinfoil Barbs, Hemiodus, Piranha, Most Silver Scaled Fish, Marine sharks, Lion Fish.

The Importance of Owning a Quarantine Tank

A quarantine or hospital tank is an important part of owning an aquarium. Quarantine tanks should be used by anyone introducing new inhabitants (fish, shrimp, etc…) to a tank, but unfortunately, not all owners are able to use these specialized tanks. When a new inhabitant is introduced into an aquarium, there is the potential for it to bring diseases or parasites and vice versa. For example, new fish tend to be stressed from the transportation process. Because of this, new fish are more vulnerable to any disease or parasites already present in the existing aquarium environment. In other words, disease and parasites can work both ways, harming both the new fish and harming fish already present in the environment. A quarantine tank helps to protect your aquarium and allows new fish to regain their strength following their journey. It’s important to make an investment in one of these tanks if you’re serious about fish or any aquatic animal ownership.

In most cases, people don’t purchase a quarantine tank because they either don’t understand its importance or they don’t have the additional money/space for another tank. A quarantine tank also requires additional maintenance. However, you don’t have to invest in a particularly large or expensive tank. You may end up saving money in the long run by preventing your fish and shrimp from getting sick or ill. Most people who invest in a quarantine tank end up realizing there are significant benefits.

These tanks not only prevent the spread of disease and parasites, but also help your new inhabitants to adjust to the new water and food they’ll be exposed to. When you’re not quarantining before introduction into the larger tank, you can also use it as a treatment tank. For example, if you have sick or infected shrimp, you can separate them from the larger population and place them inside the quarantine tank. This allows you to carefully attend to your sick shrimp without worry than your healthy shrimp will also become ill. Under some circumstances, you can also use the quarantine tank as a breeding tank, a tank to raise newly hatched fry and shrimplets, and as a place to seclude any of your inhabitants who are being harassed.

There are additional benefits to using a quarantine tank. First, it’s easier and cheaper to medicate sick inhabitants when you use a quarantine tank. By preventing a larger outbreak, you can minimize the medical costs by limiting your treatment to one or two sick inhabitants. It’s also far easier to maintain the water quality for newly introduced fish or shrimp. In heavily populated tanks, it’s difficult to keep the water quality at optimal levels. In a more limited quarantine tank, you can more effectively maintain the optimum water conditions. If your inhabitants are exhibiting any signs of trouble adjusting to its environment, you can perform even more frequent water changes to guarantee the water quality is optimum. However, in general, a quarantine tank is a good investment because it allows you to keep any eye on specific tank inhabitants more easily. When a fish or shrimp is isolated from larger groups, it’s easier find and inspect. They will also be less likely to hide in a smaller tank. For all these reasons, quarantine tanks are the perfect solution for aquatic owners needing to keep inhabitants isolated.

Typically speaking, you’ll want to buy a 30-40L (approx. 9 gallon) tank for use as a quarantine tank. This size is perfect for both freshwater and saltwater environments. Afterward, you’ll want to set up the tank to operate properly. Use a fluorescent light to illuminate the area, keep a heater to warm the water, and use rocks that can be easily scrubbed of any waste. PVC and plastic tubes can be used to provide additional cover. To keep the tank appropriately filtered, use a sponge filter. These filters require you to remove, disinfect, and rinse them in-between uses. Also, since quarantine tanks are temporary holding areas, they typically don’t have a substrate. This will let you clean and disinfect them more easily.

The disinfection process itself is not too complicated. You can remove the equipment inside when the tank is not in use. Using a mild unscented bleach solution, you can scrub both the equipment and the internal walls of the tank. However, make sure to remove all traces of bleach before refilling the tank and placing any fish in there. Drying out the tank is another way to kill many of the waterborne pathogens that commonly infest a tank. Use a separate siphon for your quarantine tank than you use for your normal tank, and disinfect it when you disinfect the rest of the tank’s equipment.

With fish, the actual length of time you keep them quarantined can vary, but typically it takes between two to four weeks to either introduce a new fish or rehab a sick one. Within that time frame, a copper sulfate treatment can be used to treat parasites. This process can last anywhere from two to three weeks. Keep an eye on your fish. If they have red spots or ragged fins, there’s a chance there’s a bacterial infection going on, which will require additional treatments. Also replace between 10 and 15% of the water every other day to guarantee the quality of your water is at its best. That said, if you also keep shrimp, either setup a second hospital tank for them or ensure you do a proper clean after use. To shrimp, the majority of copper based solutions can be fatal.

Was taught this from 2OFUS

I have suffered the catastrophe of losing a tank full of shrimp after having to bomb for cockroaches in a house we rented a while ago and left my air pumps on and my tank unprotected.

Here is how you can successfully bomb for cockroaches and fleas safely without an impact on your shrimp.

What you need -

• Lots of cling wrap.
• Time
• Towels and sheets

Step 1

Step one is to wrap your entire tank(s) in cling wrap. I did this a with two layers of cling wrap which cover the glass and over the lids.

You want to ensure there are no gaps in your cling wrap.

Step 2

Wrap some wet old bed sheets around the top of your tank or utilise wet some towels. You then want to place the towels over the top of the tank, the idea of the sheets and towels being wet is to catch any of the pesticide particles and have them settle on the towel as opposed to entering any gaps you cant see.

I utilized 3 towels for extra precaution

Step 3

Repeat step 1 and wrap another layer of cling around the tank and towels.

Step 4

Turn off all air pumps and wrap them in cling wrap. The last thing you want is any pesticide from the spray landing n your pump and being pushed into the water column when you turn the pumps back on.

Step 5

Wrap you cabinet in cling wrap, my cabinet is an open back so was imperative that i covered it. You want to ensure any gaps in the doors and what not are covered.

Step 6

Wrap any items which go into your tank in cling wrap or remove them from the room which is being sprayed. This might include things such as nets, gravel vacs, air hosing and even containers holding your food. You do not want pesticide on the outside of your container and you touch it before feeding your shrimp. Another big one is Buckets! Last thing you want is insecticide in a bucket and you do a water change!

Step 7

Wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly after removing the cling wrap and towels.

It sounds like overkill but the last time i utilized this method was to deal with a flea infestation and would not put my shrimp before my families well being. Thankfully utilizing this i was able to keep both safe without 1 loss my shrimp!

I utilised this method when moving house last January. I have given this as advice on the forum previously a long time ago but not written as an article. Unfortunately i didn't take photos because i was moving house but i have obtained images of the main items required and done an image in paint to explain the holes. i hope this will suffice?.

You will require:

• 20 litre bucket with lid (Source from bunnings or masters)
• Sponge filter I recommend the ones which have suction caps and a minimum of two if you go for single sponge. Optimum at least 2 dual sponge filters
• Battery operated air pump.
• Air hose
• Drill or sharp pointed object.
• Excess plants (the more the better)
• pH buffering substrate.

Preparation

Step 1: Ensure your sponge filters are running on your existing tank for as long as possible to ensure you have beneficial bacteria culture growing on the filters. The longer they are running the better.

Step 2: Take the lid from your bucket and make holes in the lid. The holes should be big enough for your air hose to fit through one of the holes and I did the extras to ensure new air was able to enter the bucket. Mine was done in a similar pattern to this

Step 3: Add existent tank water to the bucket. I would recommend at least 3 quarters full as if you are unfortunate enough to suffer an ammonia spike etc (worst case) the more water the lower the impact in theory. Be mindful of how much you add due to holes in the lid, the more the water the more chance of spillage.

Step 4: Add some of your existing substrate to the bottom of the bucket. I used benibachi for the ph buffering ability which had already been in my tank. I felt it would assist in reducing stress due to resembling the tank.

Step 5: You want to add the sponge filters to the inside of the bucket and thread your air hose through the holes in the lid.

Step 6: Add any plants you have available to your bucket. The aim of the plants is to assist the bacteria on the sponge filters in maintaining healthy water due to the small amount. I utilised needle leaf java fern and it also provides a food source for the shrimp.

Step 7: Add your shrimp and turn on the sponge filters and replace the lid on the bucket.

Step 8: Store the bucket out of direct sunlight during travel and storage at arriving destination to prevent major fluctuations in water temperature.

I had approximately 5 CBS inclusive of shrimplets in a bucket utilising this method alive for close to two weeks. They survived 8 hour car trip and then about 12 days whilst my tank cycled being set up in the new house with temperatures averaging over 35 degrees a day.

TIPS: Prepare your sponge filters in the tank and have them running for as long as possible prior to transfer.

The later you leave your shrimp to be added to the bucket the better.

Keep your bucket out of direct sunlight to avoid over heating and mass fluctuations in water temperature.

Avoid over feeding your shrimp as you dont want an ammonia spike from left over food. Depending on amount of plants these should be sufficient to supply micro organisms to feed on the leaves.

Battery air pumps are also able to be used in a black out so dont throw them away.

This is the shipping method I use when I ship expensive/ sensitive shrimp.

Total cost is about $18-$20 max.

Things you need:

1. Foam Box.

2. Kordon Breather bags.

3. Filter wool or mat.

4. Rubber bands.

5. Sticky tape.

6. Packing material of any kind.

7. Express post satchel. (large)

8. Shrimp.

9. Some moss of any kind.

Step 1

Get your foam box ready.

Cut some filter mat or use filter wool, and line the inside of the foam box. This is done to make sure there is a aerated space around the Kordon breather bag to ensure it can do its job effectively. This also acts as a cushion for the Kordon bag to absorb some of the bumps along the way.

Step 2

Catch your shrimp to be shipped and place them in the Kordon breather bag with a little moss for them to hold onto and also they can have a feed on this while they are travelling. Place the rubber band around the top to keep the bag secure and from leaking. Remember that you don't need to leave air in the Kordon Breather Bags as this only allows sloshing which can hurt the shrimp.

Step 3

Place The Kordon Breather bag with shrimp inside the foam box, on top of the filter mat / wool and then cover the Kordon bag.

Step 4

Fill the rest of the empty space around and on top of the Filter mat/wool with some sort of packing material that will keep the bag from moving around. I use anything I have lying around at the time from parcels I have received etc; you can use newspaper or plastic, anything that will keep the bag in its place firmly.

Step 5

Place the lid onto the foam box and use tape to seal around the joint between the box and the lid. This keeps the foam box spill proof and air tight. Then tape over the top of the box all the way around the box to keep the lid secure and tight.

Step 6

Place the foam box inside the large express post satchel and seal. Complete shipping address and send.

Now if you follow these steps you can not fail and will never have to worry about replacing dead shrimp!

There are two people that I have to give credit to for teaching and helping me develop this technique.

1. Blue Bolt. He was my sensei and I was the grasshopper when I first lost a pregnant female. I was going to dispose the females and told him via sms from one friend to another and he said NOOOOO WAIT!!! He taught me how to cut crap up aka dissect the poor dead females.

2. African cichlid enthusiasts who strip a lot of eggs from mouthbrooders have shown me how to save and tumble eggs.

OK so here's how to do it!

step one - Grab a little container and lid to put the dead female in it. Get a cheap surgery/dissection kit (costs $30?) with a scalpel, or alternatively use two toothpicks and a blade.

This is mine

Now using the toothpick to hold the body, legs and head (one by one), cut off the body parts from the eggs and try to get almost every single milligram of meat away from the eggs.

When you are done with that, slowly seperate each egg individually by using the toothpicks with each hand. It took me over 30 mins the first time, so yes this is a long process but worth it. I got it down to 10 mins by my third try.

This is what the end result looks like (not for the faint hearted and it breaks my heart doing this every time. I have done it 6 times in the past year).

With the eggs, you can siphon them out with a baby syringe or something similar. You can tumble the eggs in two ways, both have been very successful for me.

method one_

Place the eggs in a one litre circular container with an airstone that will tumble the eggs. Be careful with the amount of bubbles; enough for them to constantly move BUT NOT LIKE A WASHING MACHINE!

To help prevent fungus, add two to three drops of methyl blue.

method two, my prefered method.

Get a breeding box where the water is constanly running. Using a baby strainer, add the eggs into it with an airstone below and let the air bubbles tumble the eggs.

...and there you have it. Always keep a look out for fungused or unfertilized eggs. Remove eggs if they are opague or look a little bit like cotton. Good luck to all you fellow shrimpies out there. Remember, always look for a positive in anything that goes wrong, cause there's usually one :)

p.s the last photo was of a recent death a week ago. i will post up a photo of the babies when they hatch as proof of this method

and there u go! so far, half are hatched they are at the top left. and so tiny~!!!

there u go guys. all hatched