Clicky

Jump to content
jc12

Fish and Shrimp Rack Build - First Attempt

Recommended Posts

Kingo

This has got to be the best thread I have read here yet. 

 

I now have rack build regret. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jc12
18 hours ago, Kingo said:

This has got to be the best thread I have read here yet. 

Thank you. Hopefully I get time to update this thread once I have moved this rack to a new location in the house.

18 hours ago, Kingo said:

I now have rack build regret. 

Build a new rack... or modify the current one. 😊

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • TotalNewb
      By TotalNewb
      Help please!
      I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia  and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys. 
      I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van. 
      Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
      We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up. 
      They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius. 
      I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed. 
       
      I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
    • ohaple
      By ohaple
      Hello,
      I have recently started working towards keeping shrimp. We keep other terrestrial invertebrates (isopods, mantises, and cockroaches) and thought that shrimp would pose an interesting new challenge.
      With our mantises, we have focused on bioactive vivariums that include a cleanup crew, microfauna, and plants. That isn't the norm for mantises, but it is almost a necessity in the shrimp-keeping hobby from what I have seen. We intend to take the same approach, including heavily planted tanks, shrimp, snails, and possibly some mosquito rasboras if we are able to establish our shrimp well.
      I have some experience with aquariums through helping my dad, who has had several freshwater and saltwater aquariums. That said, shrimp are completely new to us.
      My goal is to establish two shrimp tanks, a 7 gallon and a 1 gallon. I understand that smaller is harder.
      7-Gallon Tank
      Started with the Imagitarium 6.8g rimless tank from Petco. Modified the filter system to include more biomedia and a more powerful water pump. Using Eco-Complete for substrate since it is widely recommended for planted tanks and shrimp look better on dark substrate from what I read. Using Mopani wood as our primary hardscape. We soaked it for several days prior to adding to the tank, but it continues to leech some tannins. We are trying to stay fairly focused on plants, especially in the beginning. No CO2, but we are dosing ferts and Excel. Our plants include: Bacopa as a background plant. S. repens as a mid-ground sort of plant. I plan on letting it create bushes more than creating a carpet. Micro-sword for a foreground carpeting plant. Anubias nana for mid-ground/background. I would like to add a little dwarf water lettuce but haven't yet found a source. Our plants are notably lacking moss, which I read is preferred for shrimp. We may end up adding a little java moss but I am hoping the micro-sword will give them enough surface area to be happy. Once cycled, we will be adding shrimp. We are likely going to get blue velvets, starting with 10-15. Once the shrimp are added, the fish will be moving out. To start out, we are working on cycling the tank. We used some stuff from an established aquarium and added Safestart+ to kickstart the bacteria. Keeping the tank at about 78F with a few Zebra Danios and two mystery snails to keep ammonia going while the bacteria gets established. We are dosing Prime and doing daily water changes to keep the temporary inhabitants happy. It was started about a week and a half ago, and while we aren't seeing ammonia dissipate like we want, it is steadily working. We don't plan to add shrimp until we have 0 Ammonia and 0 Nitrite.
      Here are some photos of the process and where we are now:
      First setup, keeping plants in as we get the hardscape ready

      After setting up wood and the rest of the plants

      1-Gallon Tank
      Started with a one gallon vivarium style container from Michael's Originally planned on it being a no-tech tank, but decided I would be happier with some water movement and filtration. I designed a custom water pump sponge filter. Used Eco-Complete for Substrate Using Malasian driftwood for hardscape. Sticking to fewer plants for this build to stay more organized. Monte carlo planted in substrate for carpet, and a monte carlo mat to cover up the filter. A little bush of s. repens. A small bit of anubias nana. Would like to add a floating plant, but havent been able to source any. Once cycled, I will be adding shrimp. Planning on 5 RCS or orange rili to start. Cycling this tank has been much harder so far. We added some Safestart+, but have not seen any real progress yet. I am keeping two small nerite snails in here to create the ammonia, feeding them since algae hasn't established. This tank will be much more of a custom project for us. I designed and built a 1"x2"x3" large water pump sponge filter to help the water stay a little more clear and give the bacteria some flow to process the ammonia. For the lid, we are also going completely custom, designing an acrylic and wood lid with built in lighting and containment for floating plants. We have a laser cutter and CNC so it is fun to have the lid be a separate design project. My goal with the lights is to have too much light available, and the ability to dim. That way we can grow the plants but turn down to reduce algae problems as needed. This tank will eventually go on my desk at work. Since it is a pretty professional environment, it is important that this tank isn't noisy or technical looking, and is attractive for client meetings in my office. There is a rather small available footprint which is why we went with the 1-gallon, even though it will be more challenging. So far, it looks like we are getting a little nitrite, but its slow going. Doing daily water changes and dosing Prime so we don't kill off the snails.
      Here is the custom filter. The sponge media goes in the acrylic cage, and water is pushed out the grated hole. It fits neatly behind the driftwood and is not visible except from directly in the back. The top is covered in a monte carlo mat to hide it better.


      Here it is set-up and slowly cycling. We are temporarily using a CFL hood for the light to keep the plants going well. It also raises the water temperature to about 75F, not very high for establishing bacteria.


       
      I already received some good advice from @jayc regarding how the temperature needed for Zebra Danios is lower than the recommended temperature to get bacteria growing quickly. I am hopeful that with some patience and careful monitoring, the danios will stay healthy and the bacteria will get going. I have read many articles about fish/fishless cycling and do not plan to change to fishless for this build.
      Any comments or advice appreciated. We are taking it slow, but are getting excited for cycling to complete so we can start adding shrimp.
    • Zoidburg
      By Zoidburg
      Short info...

      I'm in USA
      I got these from a pet store
      They were being sold as something they clearly are not
      Larger than cherry shrimp, smaller than amanos (as in, at best, females get to the size of an adult male amano, but not female from what little I can see)
      *NOT* Neocaridina
      *LARVAL STAGE of 1+ weeks*

      I've been told these are 4 different species (well, 6 or 7 if we count the ones I know aren't true) so I'm looking for some second opinions on what they might be... what I do know is that after a week or so, the larvae have not transformed into miniature adults. These are some of the more colorful shrimp, some have less colors but they all mainly share the dark "band" midway down their tail, except males which may appear very bland. (I'm not entirely sure it's only one species of shrimp...)
       
      Female
       

      Male
       

       
      And a 5+ day old larvae/zoe (younger zoe don't show as much color - more clear)

       
       
       
       
      And just to throw a curve ball in there... here's another shrimp that was mixed in with the type above! (clear shrimp, appears more yellow than he really is... this is also a relatively small shrimp, hardly any bigger than an adult cherry shrimp. He's the only one...)
       

    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
      Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple. 
      Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a  huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
      Regards
      -The Keeper
    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week. 
       
      Options ive thought of-
      1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced
      2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling 
      3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • Macks
      Thank you both so much for your responses, I think you covered everything I needed to hear. I really appreciate your help! I have a tank cycling as we speak. Unfortunately what I had available to be was the Fluval Spectrum substrate that was leftover from my planted tank. From what I’ve read, I’ll have to replace this and when I do, I’ll get ADA Aquasoil. 
    • Zoidburg
      Mainly what ineke said.    If your tank isn't already set up for Crystals, then it's recommended to get a new tank, get a good buffering substrate that lowers the pH (I don't recommend Fluval) and then allow it to cycle for 3-6 weeks. It can take a while to cycle, and that's okay. The bacteria prefer a higher pH but a tank with low pH will still cycle. You can put a heater in the tank and set it to about 84° to encourage the bacteria growth. Make sure you use RO water or distilled in the tank and remineralize with GH minerals. Not sure best GH for a Neo/Carid tank, but maybe around 5-6?   Once the tank is cycled, do a full water change and then you can drip acclimate the crystals (and Neos - if you only want one tank) into the new tank. If the Neo tank has widely different water parameters (pH, TDS, GH, KH...) compared to the Crystal tank, then drip acclimating may take a while.   It's hard to say how well the crystals will do in your Neo tank without knowing what parameters they were raised in, the parameters of your Neo tank, and other details. They generally do breed better and live longer in lower pH with lower GH parameters. Not only that, but color is usually improved, too, in lower pH.
    • ineke
      Hi Macks -you can successfully keep the two types together but you should keep your water parameters at CRS requirements. The Neos will adapt quite easily- they might slow down breeding initially but generally pick up very quickly. The CRS will not thrive in Neo WP's -they might survive but generally it's not recommended. I have posted about this recently on another thread but will show my  mixed tank . 
    • Macks
      Hi guys! So, I just got a small batch of crystal red shrimp to join my blue rilli and orange rilli. I’ve been looking stuff up online and getting pretty confused about water parameters... It seems like most resources are saying that Neocaridina need calcium, but then CRS should have really soft water. Does this mean that CRS should be kept with CRS only? Any input would be super helpful, I’m pretty new to keeping shrimp. Thanks! 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great news. Hope it continues! What sort of tank do you have? How many Litres? What substrate? Anything else in the tank? Filter? Heater? How many shrimps do you have? What water do you use? Do you use dechlorinator? What do you feed them? Tell us some more??? I think they moult when you change some/all water and PH 7.6 should be ok for rili shrimp, so follow Zoidburg advice and don't try and alter it with the Ph down any more! Simon
×