Jump to content

Welcome ohaple

Recommended Posts


Shrimp Keepers Forum welcomes ohaple.

Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

View Member


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi. I am new to shrimp, and actually own 0 at this point. I have a 7 gallon and a 1 gallon set up and cycling to get ready for shrimp later this month. We are hoping to start with two neocaridina varieties, one for each tank. They are both planted setups and currently have snails in both and a few zebra danios in the 7 gallon to assist with cycling. Once my account has access I hope to start a build log for them to show progress. To start though, here are two photos of the tanks. You can't tell in the photo (it is hiding under the monte carlo mat), but I made a custom sponge filter for the 1gallon with low-flow. It has really cleared up the water.

As a beginner question, I read online that neocaridina do best in water 68-78 degrees. My heater's thermostat is permanently at 78 (digital thermometer reads 78.3F). If I kept the tank without heat, it would fluctuate between about 68-72. We never allow the temperature in the room to drop below 68. Would it be better to have a steady 78 or a fluctuating 68-72?



Edited by ohaple

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, ohaple said:

Would it be better to have a steady 78 or a fluctuating 68-72?

Welcome to SKF Aquatics ... let's see about your question.

Firstly, your tank is still in the cycling phase, as you mentioned above. During this phase, a warm temp is required for the growth of the beneficial bacteria. You want this at 80-81 degF. Using Danios to assist in cycling a tank is not a good idea, because they prefer cooler temps (65 - 76 degF). You'll never get the tank warm enough for good BB growth -> Cycling will take much longer. It will still cycle, but it takes longer. Of course, that assumes there are BB present in the tank. If it is not added from another source, then cycling will take even longer. 


Second, assuming your tank has now been cycled, and you are not reading any Ammonia or Nitrites, you can reduce your temps for the shrimp to 71 - 75 degF (22-24degC).  So a fluctuating 68-72 is better than a steady 78 any day. Shrimps don't have a problem with the cold, it's the heat above 78F / 25C that they don't like.


  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I appreciate the thoughtful reply. Regarding the danios and bacteria. I am keeping the tank at 78. Care guides for zebra danios range from about 74 to 78 degrees as the high end of temperature. They are widely recommended on other aquarium forums for cycling due to being hardy and having high metabolism. They will only be in the tank about 3 weeks. I began cycling with pre cycled media and then gave it an extra kick start with safestart +. To keep the animals happy in the meantime I have been doing daily changes and dosing Prime to detox the ammonia. The bacteria is doing fine and nitrite and nitrate have been increasing even though it's less than a week established.

Regarding the temperature question, thanks for the clear answer. We will take out the heat once cycled.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • Rare Aqua
      For anyone wanting to know about baby Amarinus Lacustris care, development etc I hope I answer your questions below,   Once a female crab has shed her skin a male crab with copulate, 'hug' belly to belly for about 10 mins to 1 hour, after 24hours eggs should be visible in the females abdominal egg flap, females can carry anywhere from 10 - 40 (possibly 50) eggs at a single time, depending on water temperature eggs hatch in 3-6 weeks, in cold water hatching speed will decrease (4-6 weeks) and tropical (3 weeks Minimum), young are fully formed transparent replicas of their parents after 2 moults they achieve their sandy brown colouring. the young feed on bacterial, decaying organic matter and infusoria. it takes about 2.5 months to reach sexual maturity (faster in warmer water). It is best to separate baby crabs from adults as they may predate on the offspring if food is scarce. I cannot add images due to file size restrictions, email me if you would like photos or to talk via email at
      View full article
    • beanbag
      Thanks for the detailed reply. I had already done these things earlier: approx 15% water change.  My main water is RO + salty shrimp, and as I mentioned earlier, I used to have a slowly rising TDS and GH problem, so I always add in slightly diluted water.  However, I think the rising TDS issue recently stopped, so in the last few days, I "accidentally" dropped my GH from 6-7 into 5-6, and my TDS from 150's into 130's. 1/5th dose of Melafix (being very conservative here) added more IAL + most of the tannic boil water added a dried but non-boiled mulberry leaf I'll try to get some kind of dripper set up to do a bigger water change. In the meantime, I'm concerned about my other CRS (singular), which became inactive at around the same time as the deceased one.  (So probably they got zapped by the same thing)  It's not totally inactive, but usually moves from one spot to another every minute or so.  It often waves its front claws around and seems to rub or groom something on it's face or front legs, but I haven't seen it pick at anything (i.e. eat) in the last few days.  Didn't respond the Bacter AE dosing, and didn't respond to food placed elsewhere in the tank.  Have you seen this kind of behavior before? I attach a picture here.  It's hard to tell if it is pink or not on the inside due to the lighting.  Sometimes the insides look like clear-gray, but if there is strong light from above, I think it goes thru the red part of their shell and reddens the internals.  Anyway, I am fairly sure that earlier today I saw gray-clear parts on the inside.  Edit: just now looked at the shrimp from the underside and it doesn't seem pink, at least in the tail section.  Edit2: no, wait maybe it is a little pink after all.  Dang, hard to tell.  Edit 3: Here's another picture with different lighting, and now the insides look like that clear-grey color Regarding the oregano oil, I looked at the gill discoloration thread, and didn't see any recommendation for water column dosing, only food dipping.  But I am not sure this guy is going to eat if I put him in quarantine. Looking back at my shrimp keeping notebook, the only two things that could of "zapped' the two CRS are me adding a few tablespoons more substrate, or when I trimmed some plants and stirred things up a lot.
    • Fishlover
      Nice thanks for the reply i will try get some high grades if they ever coming here where l live 
    • jayc
      It is possible to breed high grade shrimp from low grade, but it takes a lot of time, a lot of culling and a lot of tanks. You select the best looking shrimp from each generation and breed them. Cull the rest or separate the low grade ones, so there is no risk of them breeding with the best shrimp and producing degraded shrimps in the next generation. Select the best again from the next generation and cull the lower grade shrimps. Repeat. This assume no new shrimps are added.   But if you add one or two high grade males to your low grade females, it improves quality immediately. One good male can impregnate many female shrimps.   So if you don't want to spend much on many high grade shrimps, get one good male.  
    • jayc
      yes. it can be done to the whole tank. But save some old filter media before dosing the whole tank. Then add the old media back into the filter after 2days. Keep the old media in some tank water during the 2 days (aerate if you have an air pump). That is just a precaution, in case the treatment kills your beneficial bacteria.     Melafix is only effective on a specific strain of bacteria. And we don't know what bacteria is in your tank, if any.     Before trying any of the treatments above, try an 80-90% water change and drip in the new water to acclimatise the shrimp to the new water. The new water should be pre-adjusted to CRS specific parameters. I'd like to rule out any mineral deficiencies in your water.  If you have driftwood and IAL, put a whole lot into the tank now to raise tannins and humic levels. This will give the water a certain level of antibacterial properties. Dried walnut and oak leaves can also be used to raise the tannin levels. The darker the water, the better.  Feed the shrimp fresh leaves and flowers (not dried leaves). Blanch leaves, like Mulberry, banana leaves for no more than 4 minutes. Flowers can be given fresh. Dandelions, Rose, whatever flowers you have in the garden. Again these have antibacterial properties, but as food for the shrimp. If you have a cinnamon stick, drop one into the tank. If you have green tea, drink or discard the 1st infusion and add the rest into the tank. An old stocking or sock can be used to hold the loose tea leaves. If you have tea bags, it's easier to just dangle the used green tea bag into the water.  Those are a few thing to try right now to raise the antibacterial properties of your tank. It's only temporary and can be removed once you see improvement in the shrimp. So don't worry if the tannins make your water too dark.