Jump to content

Good or Bad Idea?

Recommended Posts


So I was at the pet shop earlier (went in for one thing walked out with 4 including a pair of ruddy finches LOL), but while checking through their aquatic pet supplies I saw Turtle Health Blocks and it got me wondering if these would be good for nerite snails and nonharmful to shrimp. Generally I don't have any moulting issues in my shrimp but I do notice that my nerites and notopalas tend to suffer in the shell department over time A shame the MTS don't suffer the same fate but apparently they are the cockroaches of the aquatic world and would survive a nuclear holocaust. The turtle blocks are made by Blue Planet/ Serenity Aquatics (made in Australia too), and boasts that it "releases calcium with vitamin D and other minerals slowly into the water. The minerals are ideal for preventing shell softening". They also state that it "has pH buffering ingredients to prevent acid and neutralise ammonia". I am also wondering would these blocks be a safe idea for certain aquatic plants that  are calcium or iron hungry?

I know some people add ground up cuttlefish shell to their tanks for shrimp, which I have always been dubious about.

I also got to thinking what about the iodine or charcoal calcium blocks people give birds would they also be good for shrimp and snails or harmful?

I already have mineral balls in my tanks and aside from when they first went into the tanks and the shrimp and snails where all over them now the shrimp and snails tend to ignore the mineral blocks.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

They can be useful but it depends on what you are using them for?

To remedy a low pH? - I use crushed coral or shells for that, much cheaper.

To add calcium? - it is uncontrolled, and there are better ways of adding calcium.

As food? - shrimps won't eat it.


If your snail's shells are getting brittle, than try a handful of shell grit or crushed coral pieces in the tank. It will maintain a higher pH and dissolve slowly to release calcium.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it might help to understand what water parameters you already have and what substrate.

As far as the bird mineral blocks go? They should, in theory, be okay, however I'd be concerned about the metal that's in many of them. The metal that's meant to be tied to the bird cages. Wouldn't personally use it, because if extra calcium was required, I'd just add it from a remineralizer or get some form of calcium in another form to add to the tank.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

If these are the blocks that look like chalk blocks, I bought some off ebay once (many years ago) which they recommended for shrimp/turtle shells. I put them in with cherry shrimp and although it didn't kill any that I saw, the TDS rapidly increased so I stopped using them immediately and discarded them!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • richiep
      hi to all a friend of mine as had a load of shrimp die and didnt know why he sent me photoes and said these red spots appear and a few days later they are dead, all water perameters have been checkek and are fine.before they die they lie on their side an just move theis swimmers also the red patches go clear like an ulsar ive looked at these shrimp and believe it is rust spot but would like a second oppinion third or fourth, i thank you in advance Richie
    • beanbag
      No, because you would never be able to clean it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I don't think most people measure GH or KH in parts per million, I think your results would be KH 0-1 and GH 3-4. You don't need to remember the colour the drops should change too, as, as you say the colour in the test tube should match the original drops colour to get your reading. You may need to get some GH/KH+ for cherry/neocaridina shrimp, as your results are nearer caridina shrimp parameters. Cherry shrimp though are a lot tougher than bee shrimps so they may even survive in the parameters you have but not do as well? Anyway, if you are still cycling you can come back to that nearer the time that is done. The best shrimps to get are juveniles as you know you will have them longer (you can't tell how old an adult is) and they are better suited to adapting to new water parameters etc. You may find the below video interesting and useful as it covers virtually all you need to know at the start:- Simon
    • jayc
      HI Welcome to SKFA. Are your shrimps eating the crab cuisine at all? I don't blame them if they are not eating it. There are much better alternatives out there. Crabs will eat any junk, but shrimps are a lot pickier in their choice of food. Have a read of the numerous choices in the "Food & Nutrition" subforum. And remember, you don't have to limit yourself (and the shrimps) to processed foods. Look at leaves, flowers, vegetable off cuts or even frozen bloodworms.
    • jayc
      Why oh why do you disagree with me? 😄