Clicky

Jump to content
braga

Conditions for riffle larvae

Recommended Posts

braga

Has any progress been made in figuring out how to keep riffle larvae alive?

From what I've read here and elsewhere, it's not entirely clear whether it's an issue of chemistry/hardness or food.

This is a basic but important question, and I think it's easily answered by running a few experiments using water drawn from a creek where they naturally occur.

Is there anyone here that can help?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishmosy

Hi braga, 

The larvae may require different conditions and/or food depending on the source of the population of the adults. In general though, providing the larvae with small food like phytoplankton, rotifers and/or other zooplankton is crucial. Water hardness can be higher than for the adults and may help when the larvae moult as they grow. Populations close to the coast may have larvae adapted to brackish and/or marine conditions.

as you said, you may need to experiment to find the conditions that work best for your larvae

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • edishrimp
      By edishrimp
      Hey guys!
      I've had my CRS for close to a month now (bought about 20 juvies and adults on 30th June) and they seem to be really happy and healthy in their tank with the painted fire reds. So far the PFRs have been berrying and breeding like crazy but I've yet to see any berried CRS 😕
      Tank Parameters:
      Size: 14 Gallon Long Ammonia , Nitrite 0ppm Nitrate 20ppm pH 6.3 dKH 2 dGH 7 TDS 170 Temp 23-25c Diet: Bacter AE (1 scoop once a week-mainly for the PFR babies), Bornoewild Frenzy (once a week), Indian Almond leaves and aldercones for when they get the late night hunger pangs 😄
      So my question would be, do my CRS require some additional protein in their diet? I've been told breeding is quite a energy intensive activity for shrimp. And if so, would feeding some frozen blood-worms help to supplement this? 
      Thanks for reading!!
    • travellife
      By travellife
      My shrimp are regularly molting.  I've been leaving the casings in the tank for a couple of days before removing them.  Also, noticed the babies and some very small oblong-shaped creatures feeding on dead Wisteria leaves.  I've been removing the leaves after they're practically transparent from being fed on.  Is this a good procedure or should I immediately remove any leaf detritus and molts from such a small tank, roughly 1-1/2 gallons. 
      Would it be beneficial to the shrimp to add Wisteria leaves from my betta tank that have blue-green algae growing on them?  It seems to be like salad to them.

    • jba6511
      By jba6511
      I have had 1 RCS in a 3.5 gallon that has been established for a few months for over a month without feeding. It shares the tank with a small nerite snail and some plants. The RCS has been doing well so I recently added another 3. I know it is a small amount but was not sure at what point I need to consider supplementing. I have some shrimp food and could always do zucchini as well. I want to add some additional RCS slowly until I get to 10 or so to get a colony going but want to make sure I am feeding properly.
    • Zoidburg
      By Zoidburg
      This is a bit of a condensed version of several articles and videos below. Just wondering if there may be any additional info that may be beneficial on this journey. I have two berried females, the first one which already hatched out a handful of zoes? (didn't find hundreds of babies... only what could maybe be counted on one hand... only fish are kuhli loaches) Grabbed them last night and transferred to saltwater, this morning the female is already berried again. (can't seem to find a molt, so a little surprised there...) Second should be hatching in about two weeks, and hopefully there will be more.
       
      ~5 weeks from berried to hatch
      Do not need to be fed while in freshwater (at least the first 3-4 days?)
      Transfer to saltwater within 8 days of hatching (no acclimation required)
      Zoes are attracted to light
      Salinity between 30 and 35 ppt (1.022 to 1.026 sg)
      Air stone with reduced flow
      Temperature 68° F to 84° F?
      Diet
      Diatoms? Phytoplankton Tetraselmis Dunalliela Salina Nannochloropsis Rotifers? (zooplankton) Isochrysis sp. Tahaitian? Liquizell Golden Pearls (5-50 Microns - larger may work) Spirulina Powder (mixed with water) Mosura Shrimpton Light on for 16-24 hrs a day
      Morph into adults around 3-6 weeks of age
      Acclimate morphed babies (post larvae form) to fresh water within a few days over a period of 3 days, changing 50% of saltwater to fresh once a day - 4th day, move to freshwater

      Side Note: Adults survive salinity up to 17-18 ppt (for hatching in brackish water) - Adults cannot survive full concentration of marine water, eggs will not hatch in saltwater
       
      Resources;
      https://gabhar.wordpress.com/2009/11/11/breeding-amano/
      http://aquariuminfo.org/amanoshrimp.html http://caridina.japonica.online.fr/English/Elevage.htm
      http://www.caridinajaponica.de/zuchtbericht.htm (German)
      http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.php/129-Amano-Yamato-Shrimp-Breeding (English version of above article)
      http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.php/288-Caridina-Japonica-breeding

      Video;
    • roscoeb
      By roscoeb
      Hi
      I'm new to shrimp :-)
      I've just populated my 17 Litre (4.5 gallon) tanks with 12 Crystal Red Shrimp
      Water Parameters -
      PH 7.0
      Ammonia 0
      Nitrite 0
      Nitrate 10
      GH 5
      KH 5
      Containing Driftwood, Weeping Moss and Peacock Moss
      I was wondering about he feeding regime. I have fed them blanched carrot today,and have ordered  Dennerle Shrimp King Protein after reading Product Reviews. I have generic shrimp food from local aquarium for the time being.
      What amount and how often to feed them is something I am not sure about.
      I'd appreciate any advice :-)
      Thanks
      Roscoeb


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • cbaum86
      Thank you for the reply. So I get that I will need to start again with fresh shrimp but can those shrimp go into the existing tank once all of the old colony have been removed? Is there any chance that the ellobiopsidae could harbour in any of the tank elements such as substrate and filter for example and therefore be introduced to the new shrimp?
    • kms
    • Zoidburg
      Since "ellobiopsidae" aka "green fungus" aka "algae" can show up 3 or 6 months later, or even 2 years later, you either need to treat the entire tank and hope you eliminate it or or restart the tank with fresh blood. (new shrimp that are not from imports)
    • Zoidburg
      The reddit person's neighbor may have used high VOC paint which is more deadly. (primer typically has high VOC) Unfortunately without more details, it's hard to say. I've had shrimp die because roommate put a food grade bag into the microwave. It was not microwaveable safe. Three weeks later, neighbors bug bombed their place. Both incidents resulted in a massive die off....   chongkt another option maybe is to get an oxydator that creates oxygen *in* the tank, rather than pulling oxygen from the surrounding area.
    • Zoidburg
      First off, you want a substrate that buffers the pH down around 6.5 or below. Second, the RO water or distilled as recommended. If you have soft water, then a cheap RO machine can work, although the replacement cartridges may be the same amount as a new machine. If you have hard water, then I would recommend a more expensive RO unit. Third, you'll need GH minerals for shrimp. (no KH) Make sure you have a liquid test kit that measures all water parameters, including GH and KH. A TDS meter with calibration solution is also recommended. Sponge filters with an air pump can be used for filtration. It's recommended to get the type that suction to the side of the aquarium.
×