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    • sdlTBfanUK
      Did you measure the water capacity before you put anything in the tank, or after you had done the scaping? The rock/substrate etc uses up some of the capacity! I have never used CO2 and I think it is usually only used for plants (aquascaping) so don't think you need that unless you need it for the plants - hopefully some one more experienced will let you know about that? It looks like there is a cycle going on but I have never actually 'SEEN' this myself  so I am not too sure what stage you are at with it (I'm not being much help........) all I had with my tanks was a bacteria bloom for a couple of days, though I wasn't very good at checking in all truth - should have done more (daily) tests really at this stage. When the Ammonia and Nitrate/ite are the same as the ones in the pail you should be there I think as those look perfect. Aside from the TDS the other parameters also look very close so you should be ok there as well? I looked at the pictures of the shrimp and they looked orange to me, but maybe the pink pale made them look less yellow? Shouldn't be much longer before you can transfer the shrimp, always a relief as you will be able to see them better and can clear the pail away!  Simon ps I will leave the stone post you have done to others as although I have 'bits' of rock in my tanks I haven't had a problem and don't know about that!
    • jojowhisky
      Some of the rocks i had.
      Light grey being either seiryu or sekyri rock, till now i cant be sure.
      Reddish coloured rock is dragon stone. (Safer option)

      Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

    • jojowhisky
      Hello everyone! So recently i got down to scape my 2nd tank. This time for hardscape i decided i was going to use rocks instead of driftwood. As i had already a small inventory of rocks of different kinds from too many trips to the fish store(hands up people), i could not decide which ones to use!  I learnt a lesson in the end to just stick with what you know to be safe and inert. Especially if the intended livestock for the tank are soft water lovers.  Because the local fish stores that i patronize do not have correct labels of the rocks they sell, i had to experiment and research on them as much as i could.  Most of the rocks look so similar and matching them to pictures on the internet proved to be more frustrating.  So to use or not to use? Rule of thumb, if you are not too sure, dunk the rocks intended to use in a pail of water and test its ph, if it changes, dont use that. The vinegar test is a hit or miss. I got too carried away looking at the beautiful scapes from ADA and went out to buy the same light grey coloured rocks only to find out that they can alter the ph by a ton. A fish store owner told me to ask for an exchange of those seiryu rocks i purchased from another store as he said his friend had the ph climbed to 9.4 in his 10gallon, just half a day with just one of that rock.  Got my exchange thankfully but store ower was very displeased to do that:( Sign...   Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk    
    • jojowhisky
      Hi simon!
      Alot had happened on the week i was supposed to do the tank. Things did not go according to plan!
      Had plans to finish 2 tanks, one for the yellow neos another for the tetras.
      However just as i was starting to get things going, i noticed that the tetras were down with something! Looked to be fungal. Anyways that will be another thread in the correct department, better not rattle off here and go off topic again.
      Anyways back to the subject of this tank for the yellow neos.

      Yep i did manage to measure the amount of water in this tank. I topped it up to exactly 9litres, erm, it got to be really full, thankfully weather here was very warm so evaporation brought it down to a more comfortable level so im gonna say it can hold 7 to 8litres well. 9litres being too full.

      The glass contraption is a co2 diffuser. Im using neo co2, product is made in korea and its basically running like a diy co2 setup. Just that this comes with the solution mix, bottle, tubing and diffuser. All you need to do is to just mix warm water to the mix as per instruction and it will do the rest of the job for you.

      Yep this tank came with a glass lid, only thing it is not a full covering lid. The lid is only half the size of the top of the tank. So you would only be able to cover half the tank.

      Now the technical bit. You beat me to it because i was going to ask if i can assume my tank HAS already started the process of cycling?
      Here the parameters.

      Tds: 159
      NH4: <0.05
      No3: 25
      No2: 2
      Gh: 4
      Kh: 4
      Ph: 6.4 (test strip reading, ph pen coming in the mail, the pen HAD to spoil when i started the project of course.)
      This is week 2, 1st water change of 2litres with pure distilled water tds 004
      Above readings were taken 3hours after water change.

      Pail parameters
      Tds: 268
      Nh4: <0.05
      No3: 10
      No2: 0
      Gh: 5
      Kh: 4
      Ph: 6.4
      This reading was done 3 days after water change.

      Yep on the issue of the identity of these shrimps. I think we can just assume they are yellow neos, precisely what you said, they are so hardy!
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to see you back, I was wondering what was happening? You have a good eye as the tank looks great! Glad to hear the shrimps are still doing ok in the pail as well. Did you measure the amount of water you pit in the tank, if it is a 10L TANK, I would guess about 6L with all the soil/rock etc? Not sure what the glass tube thing is on the right hand side? Do you have a clear lid/cover for the tank to reduce any evaporation? Do you know whether the cycle has started yet, ie any ammonia/nitrite/nitrate readings? Is it running similar water parameters as the pail the shrimps are in, I would guess they are neos as they are the hardier shrimps? Keep up the good work and I look forward to following the progress.  Simon