Must Read SKF Articles
By jojowhisky · PostedHi simon!
Alot had happened on the week i was supposed to do the tank. Things did not go according to plan!
Had plans to finish 2 tanks, one for the yellow neos another for the tetras.
However just as i was starting to get things going, i noticed that the tetras were down with something! Looked to be fungal. Anyways that will be another thread in the correct department, better not rattle off here and go off topic again.
Anyways back to the subject of this tank for the yellow neos.
Yep i did manage to measure the amount of water in this tank. I topped it up to exactly 9litres, erm, it got to be really full, thankfully weather here was very warm so evaporation brought it down to a more comfortable level so im gonna say it can hold 7 to 8litres well. 9litres being too full.
The glass contraption is a co2 diffuser. Im using neo co2, product is made in korea and its basically running like a diy co2 setup. Just that this comes with the solution mix, bottle, tubing and diffuser. All you need to do is to just mix warm water to the mix as per instruction and it will do the rest of the job for you.
Yep this tank came with a glass lid, only thing it is not a full covering lid. The lid is only half the size of the top of the tank. So you would only be able to cover half the tank.
Now the technical bit. You beat me to it because i was going to ask if i can assume my tank HAS already started the process of cycling?
Here the parameters.
Ph: 6.4 (test strip reading, ph pen coming in the mail, the pen HAD to spoil when i started the project of course.)
This is week 2, 1st water change of 2litres with pure distilled water tds 004
Above readings were taken 3hours after water change.
This reading was done 3 days after water change.
Yep on the issue of the identity of these shrimps. I think we can just assume they are yellow neos, precisely what you said, they are so hardy!
By sdlTBfanUK · PostedGood to see you back, I was wondering what was happening? You have a good eye as the tank looks great! Glad to hear the shrimps are still doing ok in the pail as well. Did you measure the amount of water you pit in the tank, if it is a 10L TANK, I would guess about 6L with all the soil/rock etc? Not sure what the glass tube thing is on the right hand side? Do you have a clear lid/cover for the tank to reduce any evaporation? Do you know whether the cycle has started yet, ie any ammonia/nitrite/nitrate readings? Is it running similar water parameters as the pail the shrimps are in, I would guess they are neos as they are the hardier shrimps? Keep up the good work and I look forward to following the progress. Simon
By jojowhisky · PostedHi everyone! I have completed the tank setup for the yellow shrimps(query TT,YKK or yellow neos, still dont know what they are.) They are residing in a pail and are so hardy. Can withstand tds 300plus with baby shrimps. It was a tough project,though the tank was small but i think the toughest tanks to scape are the small ones which are cuboid shaped. Currently it is still cycling but i assume it will complete the cycle period sooner as i have added in used substrate and items from my main cycled tank which holds the fire reds and crystals. Tank size: 23*20*25cm Volume: 10litres Substrate: Shrimp and plants soil by Gex Japan Mini sand pit: normal aquarium sand mixed with small gravel stones Hardscape: Black lava rocks, initial plan was dragon stones but that was omitted in the end. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
By Rare Aqua · PostedFor anyone wanting to know about baby Amarinus Lacustris care, development etc I hope I answer your questions below, Once a female crab has shed her skin a male crab with copulate, 'hug' belly to belly for about 10 mins to 1 hour, after 24hours eggs should be visible in the females abdominal egg flap, females can carry anywhere from 10 - 40 (possibly 50) eggs at a single time, depending on water temperature eggs hatch in 3-6 weeks, in cold water hatching speed will decrease (4-6 weeks) and tropical (3 weeks Minimum), young are fully formed transparent replicas of their parents after 2 moults they achieve their sandy brown colouring. the young feed on bacterial, decaying organic matter and infusoria. it takes about 2.5 months to reach sexual maturity (faster in warmer water). It is best to separate baby crabs from adults as they may predate on the offspring if food is scarce. I cannot add images due to file size restrictions, email me if you would like photos or to talk via email at firstname.lastname@example.org
View full article
By beanbag · PostedThanks for the detailed reply. I had already done these things earlier: approx 15% water change. My main water is RO + salty shrimp, and as I mentioned earlier, I used to have a slowly rising TDS and GH problem, so I always add in slightly diluted water. However, I think the rising TDS issue recently stopped, so in the last few days, I "accidentally" dropped my GH from 6-7 into 5-6, and my TDS from 150's into 130's. 1/5th dose of Melafix (being very conservative here) added more IAL + most of the tannic boil water added a dried but non-boiled mulberry leaf I'll try to get some kind of dripper set up to do a bigger water change. In the meantime, I'm concerned about my other CRS (singular), which became inactive at around the same time as the deceased one. (So probably they got zapped by the same thing) It's not totally inactive, but usually moves from one spot to another every minute or so. It often waves its front claws around and seems to rub or groom something on it's face or front legs, but I haven't seen it pick at anything (i.e. eat) in the last few days. Didn't respond the Bacter AE dosing, and didn't respond to food placed elsewhere in the tank. Have you seen this kind of behavior before? I attach a picture here. It's hard to tell if it is pink or not on the inside due to the lighting. Sometimes the insides look like clear-gray, but if there is strong light from above, I think it goes thru the red part of their shell and reddens the internals. Anyway, I am fairly sure that earlier today I saw gray-clear parts on the inside. Edit: just now looked at the shrimp from the underside and it doesn't seem pink, at least in the tail section. Edit2: no, wait maybe it is a little pink after all. Dang, hard to tell. Edit 3: Here's another picture with different lighting, and now the insides look like that clear-grey color Regarding the oregano oil, I looked at the gill discoloration thread, and didn't see any recommendation for water column dosing, only food dipping. But I am not sure this guy is going to eat if I put him in quarantine. Looking back at my shrimp keeping notebook, the only two things that could of "zapped' the two CRS are me adding a few tablespoons more substrate, or when I trimmed some plants and stirred things up a lot.